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bahllr

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Everything posted by bahllr

  1. bahllr
    The 1800 signals have a buyer this weekend. I’ll post if they don’t go through but right now they are spoken for. thanks
  2. bahllr
    Pm’d Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. bahllr
    These are bmw 1800 signals and not 2002 euro signals. Still interested? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. bahllr
    Looking to sell off the last of some extra parts. These pictures show what I have left. Reasonable offers welcome and all parts will need to be shipped at your cost. More you buy the more flexible on price I am. Looking for 250 on the shortened drive shaft meant for a 5 speed and a long neck diff. items sold, trunk emblem, brake booster, all bagged items, brake fluid reservoir (old model) and oil pan. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. bahllr
    Colorado springs Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. bahllr
    Would love for people to make my job easier and package items....the more you bundle to more I’ll discount. All items are plus shipping. Shortened and balanced driveshaft for 5 speed and long neck diff. Rebuild with new guibos. $275 Wheels and tires. Brand new tires and resprayed wheels. 5 wheels and 4 tires. $225 for local purchase. Clutch slave cylinder. $40. Sold Euro signals, right side only. $65 each and 30 for frame without lens. Sold except the frame. 1600 front brake calipers. I pulled and replaced. $40. Oil pan. Cleaned and painted. $40. Books and bmw sign. 30 for all. Sold. Engine bits $20 each. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. bahllr
    Two e12 heads in unknown condition. 100 each. SOLD Euro turn signals. Right side only. 60 each. 2 left. Oil pan. Cleaned and painted. 40 Timing cover. 40 Intake manifold. 40 Instrument cluster shell. No dials. 25. SOLD Late model kidney. 5 out of 10. 25. SOLD Brake booster and master. Painted. 90 Dog bowl hubcaps in decent driver shape. 40. SOLD Bumper overriders. 4 in very good shape, 40 each. 1 in good shape with a cracked rubber pad, 25. 1 in rough shape 15. Clutch slave cylinder. Brand new. 40 All items are plus shipping costs. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. bahllr
    Djminkin, I did and will pack it up and ship it by tomorrow at the latest. Thanks
  9. bahllr
    The 1800 lights are a different shape and don’t fit the 1602. I wish they did but they don’t.
  10. bahllr
    Rebuild pedal box with brand new master cylinder still available as well as right hand euro turn signals. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. bahllr
    Selling lots of parts and here is the first round... one set of euro signals in good shape. $200. SOLD. 6 right hand side turn signals $75 each. Bmw 1800 turn signals set, no just the frame and lenses, $80 Rebuilt pedal box with new master cylinder. Painted not powder coated. $350. SOLD Cleaned and painted pedal box with pedals and old hardware. $150. SOLD Vintage blaupunkt radio. Never tested but both dial and push buttons work and change the station. Awesome condition. $150. SOLD Metal sunroof cable and hardware from a Volvo 240 with all screws and a sunroof crank mount. $100. SOLD Early 1600 dash chrome for three piece dash. Brand new from dealer and never opened. All four pieces. $250. SOLD More stuff coming soon. Shipping costs are extra. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. bahllr
    Prenup - thanks for the help. Here are two shots. One of the back of the tach and one of the connectors from the other side of the cluster. Seems most people have a different set of connectors coming from where I have a sealed connector... Look forward to any thoughts. Ben Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. bahllr
    Simeon - thanks for the thoughts. I connected the red wire to the positive terminal and crimped on a spade tonight and unfortunately still had no success. At this point I think it might be the early instrument cluster wiring (the red wire isn't hot so not sure if the tach needs power or just the signal from black) or the tach itself. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. bahllr
    So I've made some headway on my 68 1600 and it is now running with brakes! i need to get it running smoother and do a valve adjustment and to help dial in the idle I wanted to replace my clock with a tach. i read all the posts on tach not working....I searched for the hidden black wire behind the dash and I couldn't find it. I've attached a picture to show what I see. So so I ran a black wire from the negative side of the coil through the firewall up to this location and plugged it into the center spade on a tach I swapped in. While the car is running the black wire pulses on my test light and grows brighter with revs so it seems to be feeding a signal to the tach but no movement on the dial. i am wondering if my wiring could be causing an issue as my wiring loom on the back of the instrument cluster is different than those I have seen online. I don't have the green wire coming from the very far end of the dash as that port is covered with a hard foamy plastic, likely from the factory. Is this causing the issue or is it something else? i have a black wire from negative coil to tach middle prong and one to the back of the distributor. I would appreciate those with much more experience let me know if I have missed something. thanks, ben
  15. bahllr
    $9750
  16. bahllr
    PM sent.
  17. bahllr
    Great thread. Thanks for all the details. I am very excited to see your car painted. I have a 68 Derby 1600 and will be repainting in the near future. Can't wait to see your project unfold.
  18. bahllr
    What year are the seats? What color and condition?
  19. bahllr
    Supraman007 - good luck on your rust repairs - it seems that you are pretty comfortable with this type of work. The second to last picture you posted shows the rounded outer section of the bottom of the A pillar, where it connects to the rocker panel. I need to replace that piece on my car and was curious if you had found a place that sells a patch for that section or if you were planning on shaping one?
  20. bahllr
    I have a 68 1600 and am looking for a pair of period correct front seats - no headrests. Either black or saddle in color. I would prefer that they don't need to be recovered but will consider others. I am also interested in seat covers (correct basket weave inserts, i.e., world upholstery, etc.) for front and/or back. Again - either saddle or black. Maybe you have a set lying around that you got and then didn't use? I'm interested. Ben Location: Colorado Springs
  21. bahllr
    Thanks so much for the quick response! I'll drop him a line.
  22. bahllr
    Great write up. I'll be doing this soon enough. Where can I buy these early style boots? I've only seen the black ones, not the clear kind.
  23. bahllr
    Nice video. Looks like a blast. I went to BYU as well and drove up that road a few times - but never in the winter! Scary enough without the snow and ice.
  24. bahllr
    Mike - thanks for the info on White Post. I'll contact them to find out what is involved and what it costs. Blunt - thanks as well. I replaced my rear wheel cylinders and recall they came in 2 or 3 diameters. Do you know off-hand which diameter seal I would need? And do they sell those individually? Any other parts needed for the rebuild? Are there any 'bolt on' options out there for my current brake set up? Like an E21 MC or a 2002 MC and somehow plug the ports that are not used? Appreciate everyone's input.
  25. bahllr
    I bought an early 1968 1600 a few months back and am working on rebuilding it. I'm a newbie at this but loving it all. VIN is 1560333 - built in Sept of 67. I've replaced soft brake hoses, rotors, calipers (2 pot brakes), rear drums (upgraded to 230mm) with rear wheel cylinders. The only thing I haven't replaced is the master cylinder and the booster. I think it is the T50 style with the remote brake booster. I would like to replace this and have confidence that there are no weak links in my braking system. I gather from other posts on the topic that this master cylinder is NLA. What I am less confident about is what people are actually doing in this scenario. There are recommendations to use an E21 master cylinder but I've seen a few comments saying that doesn't work with the remote booster. Since 1967-68 1600's apparently went through a number of changes and I'm hoping by showing these pictures I can leverage the collective brainpower of those who have gone through this before, and get a clear understanding of what my options are as well as any impacts those options have (replacing pedal box, clutch master, additional brake lines, new calipers, etc.). I really appreciate your help as this has become a bit daunting. Thanks. Ben
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