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  1. Two wire bundle, one brown, one brown with a blue trace is most likely the brake fluid level switch. There may or may not be two brown wires crimped together in the connector (the schematic says there is, but it lies frequently). If you can, short the two ends together with the ignition on; you should get a warning light on the dash. Or, just tape them up and ignore them. The brown-blue wire goes directly to the dash, the brown wire is a tap into the wiper motor ground.
  2. You're going to get pulsing no matter whether you're tapping one runner or all four via a manifold; the mass of the diaphragm and advance assembly and the limited flow through the port orifice is what acts to even these out. If you want to draw a graph, consider that in the single-manifold case, the butterfly is passing 4x the air volume. Yes, the vacuum impulses are staggered and the magnitude of the vacuum fluctuations is substantially smaller (largely due to runner and manifold volume), but for the purposes of supplying vacuum to pull the advance mechanism at small throttle openings there's plenty to go around (again, otherwise the brake booster would have nothing to work with). See e.g. the Mikuni PHH sets, which pull advance vacuum from the #1 runner. It looks like there's a wide assortment of DCOE variants; some with ported vacuum, some without. That's certainly a bigger issue.
  3. You can get vacuum with DCOEs (otherwise why do so many DCOE-equipped cars have brake boosters?).
  4. There are a couple of off-the-shelf GPS to VSS units; Intellitronix do one that offers fixed 4/8/10k ppm. Canadian Automotive Instruments have one that's configurable. http://www.intellitronix.com/gps-sender.html - about $100, mixed reviews http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn81 - $250, better reviews but obviously expensive There's also an Autometer module that might be usable. Several outfits do speedometer calibration modules that would let you adapt the 4/8/16 pulse output to suit your speedo.
  5. Also used on the M coupe, and available via BMW Individual on anything (see e.g. on this F10 M5: http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964894) It's a lovely color, but very hard to keep clean and pretty...
  6. Andrew, you alluded to boost options for the M10, but I've spent quite a bit of time looking for anything that looks like a sensible, streetable setup, without much luck. Either it's a one-off and ghetto beyond belief, or it has a compressor bigger than my head... It sounds like you have some experience here; do you have any pointers to a basic parts kit / list for someone looking for the 'easiest and most durable' option as you put it, or an engine builder doing sensible M10 turbo builds?
  7. There are several things you should do at the same time: Go to your local hardware store and buy a 3-pack of little brass brushes from the paint department; you want the ones that are just a little bit bigger than a toothbrush. Any time you expose an electrical terminal or connection, clean it vigorously with one of these brushes until you can see bright metal anywhere metal touches metal. Upgrade your alternator to the 85A version. There really isn't a good reason not to do this, unless money is *extremely* tight. Replace the ground wire from the old alternator (it goes to a bolt on the front of the block) with something more substantial; yours is probably rotted or burned. You may find it easier to use a ground strap from your FLAPS and run it down to the ground terminal on the front of your block. If you buy from BNR, they will probably send you a piece of "audiophile" 8ga wire with terminals on it, meant to replace the red wire that runs from the alternator to the battery. Throw it away (the insulation is not suitable for use in the engine compartment). Your FLAPS should be able to supply you with a suitable cable for a modest fee; I would not go smaller than 8ga, or larger than 6ga. It's quite possible that your vehicle's wiring in this area has been messed with, so spend some time working out what's connected to what and make sure you're replacing the right thing. A common configuration is to run the wire from the alternator to the + terminal on the starter; if this has been done, make sure to clean both the wire and terminal before attaching your new wire. While you have the battery out, disconnect the grounding strap from the block (low on the front of the engine) to the frame rail and examine it; if it looks corroded or frayed, replace it. Hunt down the collection of brown wires that bolt to the chassis in the front left corner, disconnect them, clean them all and re-connect them. Pull your fuse block and flip it over. Check that all the wires are snugly connected. If any are loose, clean the terminal and gently squeeze the connector with a set of pliers (you just want to make it a bit tighter, not crush it) before reconnecting. Pull your fuses one at a time, clean the holder with the brass brush and (unless the fuse is new) replace it. You will be removing and discarding your voltage regulator when you replace the alternator. Take a few minutes to smash it properly with a hammer before you put it in the trash. No going back. = Mike [edit for location of output wire from alternator and block grounding strap]
  8. 45 is the headlight switch. However, the schematic shows the terminals on the switch marked with what look like DIN 72552 terminal codes. Here is a better picture of the colour codes shown in Daron's pic: (Click on the picture, the preview image is terrible). http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/152834-early-headlight-switch-early-red-knob-hazard-switch/
  9. The 85 amps number is the maximum capacity of the alternator; it's taken at (IIRC) 6000rpm at the alternator shaft. What's interesting about a higher-rated alternator is that, at idle when you really care and the alternator is spinning at (maybe) 2000rpm, it will put out more electrical power than a lower-rated unit. The stock 35A alternator isn't good for more than 10-12A at idle; you can get more like 30A out of an 85A unit which means brighter lights and more consistent battery charging when stuck in traffic, or stopped at a light for example.
  10. Complete in-car footage here: Also, another selection of 'fast' 911s that can't go around corners.
  11. Tastily 'weathered' green '02 with an m42 swap in the Carlsen Audi parking lot Labor Day saturday. Thanks for popping the hood and sharing a few moments; a very 'appropriate tech' swap!
  12. Apologies, I should have updated this posting. I called Eagleday shortly after posting the above; I spoke with a very polite chap on the phone about the order, and here's the gist of it: - They're not a super tech-savvy company as best I can tell (the website should give that away) and as best as I could tell, never read or answer their email. - The wire we want is special-ordered out of Europe, so they bundle orders together to make it economical. Orders tend to take a while as they accumulate enough to make it cost-effective, then it has to travel back via cheap freight. In my case, the wire eventually arrived, no complaints about the quality. I'm sorry to hear that you're not having any luck with the phone.
  13. Yup, that's Bill's photo booth. Be happy you're only out $7k. He told me the same "brokering" story, too. 2002mkoop is Bill's son.
  14. I think by now you've seen all the pictures online; I don't have a dimensioned drawing, sorry. I have one here if you'd like some measurements, or otherwise if you can be more specific about what information you need? Possibly the worst part about making it mount well is going to be that the pivot and adjuster bolt on the stock alternator are at 90°, and on the Delco they are at 180°. This means that either you need to move the alternator pivot point up, or find another anchor for the adjuster arm, or come up with some other way of attaching the adjuster to the alternator body.
  15. Perhaps it's time for someone with a little bending ability to come up with a bracket for the Delco 10si case? At that point, your options are almost limitless...
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