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About speedyshel

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  1. Hi all! I'm looking for some parts for an S14 engine: - Throttle bodies or linkages and parts from the throttle bodies (I only have the butterflies and the shafts and the idle jets) - Crank pulley - Cylinder head - Oil pump - Rear main seal plate - Harness - ECU - AFM - AFM intake boot Let me know! Thanks! Sheldon
  2. Welcome Kamil! Looking forward to seeing the progress! Keep us posted. Sheldon
  3. I'm not a vendor on the site, but my family owns a BMW specialized cylinder head shop and we would be happy to look over the head and rebuild it upon inspection. I'm not promoting my/our business, I'm simply mentioning it as a fellow '02er with a common hobby who has the resource and is willing to help out and give you a good product if you choose so based on what else you find out there. Whatever you choose, just don't let anyone knurl the guides, put oversize guides, or machine more off the head than is needed. I would think anything over $250 unless a shop is adding the cost of guides, etc. would be excessive. Personally, $200-250 seems a reasonable ballpark quote for a full rebuild. Hope this helps, others may have better input. If you wanted a link to our website, I'll pm it to you, but won't post it here in case it breaks rules. Sheldon
  4. Here's the exact link Andrew speaks of: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/electrical-and-ignition/retrofitting-an-electronic-flasher-relay-r56
  5. So sorry to see this! I'd be interested in the passenger door mirror. Sheldon
  6. Can also try www.ecstuning.com. They had all my chrome trim pieces about 6 months ago.
  7. If you need any specific advice, questions answered, etc. you can give me a shout. I've done the swap in a '74 2002 and can help with pictures etc. PM me and I'll give you contact information if you want. But the whole emission wiring can be discarded, the starter harness can mostly be discarded. Most of the harness in the engine bay isn't really needed aside from brake fluid reservoir harness, lights, horns, washer bottle, etc. You'll basically be adding all new wiring with the M42 harness, but take your time and don't delete anything you aren't sure of until you're positive you don't want it any longer. Best of luck! It's a worthy investment!
  8. I'm in the same boat as you at the moment. For the time being, I've used a phone app mounted to the windscreen that's pretty accurate according to all my tests haha. My plan is to convert the original to electronic internals when I have the funds to do so, but for the time being, the app has worked great! An internal conversion to electronic is the most reliable method imo. Or change the face of an aftermarket electronic one, but either option ends up the same.
  9. If you're going to purchase a parallel flow condenser like those above, the 10"x18" is about the best (largest) size you can fit in the nose without chopping or modifying. Worked well for me and an aftermarket (Spal, or other brand) fan is perfect. Both allowing more clearance and being more efficient.
  10. Ohhh. Lol got it! We'll see I personally never go to the blog section cause I don't think about it much, but that clears up the topic for me. Such a small matter, yet such outrage lol. Thanks for the clarification hah!
  11. Cool progress Lisa! But I'm failing to follow the correlation between the posts that follow the OP post. You can follow the blog history here and on social media. What more was there to explain about the post? What are the other posts about Thucydides and stuff? And then ESTY has a random "stupid" in there. In total respect, did I miss something? Lol. It's 2am and that could explain my mind, but I'm curious now. Edited spelling
  12. Truthfully, doesn't matter much what year is what at the moment. I can replicate whichever cards are out there and we can figure that out as time goes on I guess.
  13. I finished my swap a couple of months ago, been waiting to drain coolant again so I can remove the radiator and install the parallel flow condenser for a better A/C cooling. Aside from that, it's done. I hid the wires as best I can and tucked the tach adapter in the fuse box compartment because it does generate a ticking sound as it pulses. Turns out that didn't quieten it down much since the compartment is right by the cluster anyway haha. I haven't converted the speedo to electric yet as I'd like to convert to either GPS or have a company I've spoken to convert my inner working to electric while keeping it stock looking. I converted to COP and the boots were not a problem fitting them, so if you had issues fitting them, let me know and I can try help you figure out what's up with that. Always interested in what others did so thanks for sharing! Keep it up Edit: Pictures aren't sideways when I upload them, so I apologize for their size and orientation. Save them to view them if you prefer.
  14. I saw a topic mentioning a need for fuse box color card replicas and even though I've restored my car entirely, that's not a part I refurbished. I don't want to tear my 12-fuse fusebox back apart to replicate the card, but if someone wants to send a card my way temporarily so I can get colors, dimensions, etc I'll be happy to try my hand at replicating the card for us. I'll return the card afterward (with a replica included if I succeed haha). Actually you can make a color photocopy of it as long as the colors are close and the size is exact. If there's a 6-fuse version, I can do that too. I don't know all the iterations and variations, but you all would know what's out there. Just a thought, please don't flame me if you don't like the idea. Sheldon
  15. Awesome writeup! I don't have the fuse box card, but I'll be happy to attempt a replica in Photoshop if someone had a card they wanted to send my way. I can return it after getting dimensions. Just a thought, PM me if you have one you want to share. But great writeup!!
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