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About darrinos

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  1. darrinos


  2. Year:: 1974 Make:: BMW Model:: 2002 Price:: 1500 Location: : Tulsa, OK After several sleepless nights of trying to decide whether or not to sell my little BMW, I've decided that it's time. We've shared a lot of good times together and man...I'm really going to miss it. It really is a great little car that grows on you. Not a whole lot to say about it...it's a very simple car and has been my daily driver for the better part of 3 years. Has several cosmetic issues, but honestly, that's never been a concern really. It has the 4-spd, has a somewhat rare A/C option though it's not working at the present. It has a header on it and the Weber 32/36 carb with electric choke. Just had a tune up/oil change, the tires are good. The starter just went out on it, so though I'm asking $1500 for it, I'll take less before I replace the starter. It only costs $60, but just to save the time of replacing it, I'd negotiate on the price a little more than I will after I replace it in the next week. The speedo doesn't work so God only knows how many miles are on it. I drove it 500miles last weekend...lots of smiles. It gets smiles and thumbs-up everywhere I go. It would be a good restoration candidate or drive as-is. If interested, please send me a text or email. I hate to see it go but it's time to move on. I don't have the time at this point in life to give it the attention that it needs. There are several other pictures here at this website on my profile. ~Darrin
  3. WELL...this is all very interesting how the battery voltage plays in with cranking and the coil and the ballast, and here's why. Since I've started having trouble...um, starting....I was worried that it would cause trouble with the starter due to over-use and more cranking. (I had the hard starting before the new coil and ballast). So today, I go to lunch...make a few stops...all is well...then on my final stop, the car won't crank. NOTHING. Dead. Battery was good, but when I turned the key it just went "clunk". I was eventually able to start the car by jumping across the solenoid with a screwdriver, and got back to work. To leave work, had to do the same thing. But here's where it gets REALLY exciting. I'm sitting at a stop light and the car dies. Well, crap. Won't start without the screwdriver so I get ready to push it to the side...but then I smell something...and notice a lot of smoke coming from under the hood. I jump out, open the hood... and I see the battery and the positive battery cable are both smoking. The cable is having a meltdown. So I jump back in the car to turn off the key...apparently I still had it on. I was worried that it was going to catch fire, but luckily, it did not. I pushed it to the side of the road and let it cool down. I noticed that there was a wire that had come off of the solenoid (no, Simeon...I have not touched this terminal before. ) I slid it back on but still the car would not start. So, I put it in neutral and grabbed my increasingly favorite screwdriver and tried to start it, but could not get the drive to engage. So I pushed it until I got to a decent speed, hopped in, dropped into second and it started up! I was a bit surprised. With trust highly compromised, I was able to drive it the remaining 5 miles home. I'm a little puzzled as to why there would be a short on the starter when the car was running and the starter wasn't being used. Am I missing something here? This is becoming a nightmare for me and I'm seriously considering selling the LRC (Little Red Car) to someone who has more time to invest in it. But before I do that...I'd love to hear if you guys think these problems are interconnected. In the 3-4 years I've had this car, it's never caused as much trouble as it has the past 3 months and the timing of it all is really poor for me personally. So...your thoughts? At this rate, I can't fix one problem because a new one crops up before I can address it.
  4. I understand that we're in the "new age" of internet shopping...I was just making a point that Oklahoma seems a little slow at times. Like to get my digs in since I'm a Missouri boy. I'll take a look at the Blunttech site. I have crimpers....at home...didn't have them with me in the parking lot in Springfield, Mo...so yes, I used a pair of vise grips to crimp the wires. I will take care of those connections PDQ. The timing light and dwell meter are on the way. I will continue to check the wires. The clear one that you see on the coil goes to my electric choke. The manufacturer of the coil (MSD) says that this one requires a ballast resistor when used with points, so that's why I installed it that way. Still, I'm not sure if it's on the right wire or not. I took a guess and put it on the wire that was melted "the most" before replacing the wire. I'm guessing by testing the wire, I would find that one has more resistance than the other? What values am I looking for? And as you say, I may not need both, but what happens if I use both? I apologize...I love mechanical work, but when it comes to electrical stuff, my brain pushes back...yes, I'm afraid I have electrical resistance in my skull. Nevertheless, I will be doing as Simeon suggested very soon and replacing the wiring as my schedule allows. Add to this that it's still starting hard....like it's flooded. But after it starts, no issues...so I've got to work on that too. And wheel bearings. And brake hoses. And... I've got the points/condenser ordered...but I still worry that I don't have a distributor number. Thinking I might need to take it out and look. And don't get me started with Pete and Repeat, or I'll start singing "The song that never ends".....
  5. Common thread? I dunno but these pretzels are making me thirsty...AND I have sudden and overwhelming urge to replace my condenser all of a sudden. Guess I'll get that ordered at the local parts store...they don't stock those here in Slow-klahoma....gonna get some points too, which are amazingly readily available. Must fit in some lawnmower... Will let you know in a couple of days. Thanks for the historical compilation, Mint...the condenser was replaced late spring, but since they're cheap as they are, I'm all for switching it out.
  6. Simeon, I appreciate what you're saying. The problem with that is that while I'm at home and just driving to work, nothing much ever happens to it. It's always when I'm off in some small town that one of this issues arises and I'm left to fix it in the parking lot so that I can get back home. From that perspective, I've always made it back. From your perspective, I understand completely. I'm using the shotgun method of repair a lot of times, just throwing a bunch of things at it hoping something works. Not my preferred method. Along with that, it's also my daily car right now for work and I can't have it down for more than a few hours. It has performed rather admirably in this role as I am expecting an awful lot out of it. Soon, the Infiniti will be repaired and the BMW will resume its more comfortable role as 2nd car/Hobby car. Thank you for the careful selection of your words.
  7. OK. so here's the latest update...with pics. I haven't tested anything as suggested as yet, so I apologize. I'll be doing my testing this week. Just wanted to let you know of changes made and behaviors observed. I drove the car 100 miles souhteast to a little town name Noel, Missouri for a camping/canoe trip and it ran like a champ all the way there and it got a lot of attention. Funny that no matter how raggedy one of these 02's are, people love 'em anyway. Had a lot of hills and curves and smiles on the trip. BUT...the tach was still doing it's weird thing where it would sometimes drop to zero and other times go kinda loco. I then drove it another 70miles north and it did fine again...until I shut if off in Lamar, Mo. (I name the towns just in case some of you out there like to check into things like that.) I came out of the Walmart and it wouldn't start. It acted like it had no fire. Thinking that God had a reason he didn't want me to arrive at my next destination on time (and this was highly likely), I sat for a while and since this didn't seem to miraculously solve the problem, I went through my usual procedure of checking the point gap, the condition of all the connections, etc. I finally decide that now would be a good time to re-do all of the connections on the coil and the condenser. After doing so in the parking lot (seems to be my place of choice for repairs these days), the car started right up, losing only 45mins of my time. I arrived in Nevada, Mo approximately 30 minutes later after having a nice little buzz up Hwy 249. Interestingly enough, I noticed that my tach no longer went crazy and when on the highway, it stayed very consistent and showed 4000 rpm like it should. (My speedo doesn't work so I use the tach. I've also found that since the exhaust is of a noticeable volume, that I can also judge the speed using my guitar tuner on my phone. If I keep it a "C#", I'm doing ok. If I push it to "D"...I'm taking a risk.) I made it into town and back out with no issues (car-wise, that is. Romance wise is another issue entirely.) I drove east on 54hwy through the hills and curves on purpose and then down 13hwy to Springfield, Mo. Got to my daughter's house...no one home. Started right up and went to the ATT store because my phone had gotten wet on the river, despite buying a "water-proof" container for the phone. (Next time I'll save the fifteen-bucks and use a freaking ZIPLOC.) When I pulled in I was greeted by a very young kid who was a BMW fanatic and couldn't stop talking about the little $800 bimmer that I'd just driven in. The kid had an AMAZING e30 of his own. Anyway...got the new Galaxy S6, hopped in the car...wouldn't start. I sat in that parking lot for the better part of 2 hours trying to troubleshoot while waiting for the car to not be flooded. While doing so, I noticed that one of the wires for the coil had come out of the connector. Thinking that was the problem, I fixed it and went to start it. Nothing doing. I man stopped to talk/help and asked about a ballast resistor. I told him that I didn't have one originally so I didn't put one on last year when I got this coil. After he left, I saw on the coil were the words "REQUIRES BALLAST RESISTOR". Hmmm. Never saw that there before. Worried that my coil was probably a little worse for wear, and not trusting it all that much as of late, I hoofed it over to the nearest parts store...Pep Boys. Coil for a '74 Bimmer? No sir. Not in stock. Special order only. "OK, whatever..." I notice that they have a high-performance section in the store so I go over there to see what they might have. I found an MSD6-A coil, and a ballast resistor, electrical connectors and some wire, and off I went, effectively separated from $75, to try to work magic on the car. While hooking it all up, I wasn't sure which wire the ballast went on. I was positive that it went on the positive side of the coil, but other than that...not sure. So I hooked it up as you see in the pics. I also replaced another wire that looked like it had been melted that I should have replaced when I did the last one. All back together now, I started the car right up, and off I went...kind of. It was sputtering under acceleration especially, but after I baby it through that, it ran fine. Eventually on the highway, the sputtering went away. It was almost as if it had to "register" or something because after working through the gears and the RPM's one time, it never did it again. It was almost like a rev-limiter going through a learning process. Anyway, I drove it another 170 miles back to Broken Arrow, OK...(home) and it did fine, except for the "WACKY TACH". It had started up again. Otherwise, no issues. After arriving home and showering to remove all of the river scum off of me, I decided to head out for a drink. No real issues though I noticed when turning that it would cut out. Then it died on me at one point, but started right back up. I made it to my appointed destination, and upon leaving....it started. But on the way home at 1:30am...it died just past an intersection. NOT a good situation. It would not start again. I found the best out of the way place in a parking lot and open the hood and saw that the wire had come out of the connector to the condenser. (Dammit. I know...I know.) Fixed that, started right up and headed home. It started up today, ran well. No issues. SO...with all of that info in mind...here are the pics. Using a mirror, I was still unable to find any numbers on the distributor, even on the backside. How do I determine which wire is the resistor wire on the car, and do I have the ballast resistor on the right one? I'm really getting interested in buying a dwell meter to that I can get this nailed down. I want it to purr smoothly but at this point it does not. I realize that my distributor has a lot of play in it as well and this may affect that. On the melted wiring, could this have been caused by not using the ballast all this time? Other than these questions, let 'er rip, boys.... Would love to hear what you have to say....
  8. I took the car on a 300 mi trip this weekend, and it ran great...not a problem at all. But like AVG mentions above, I'm a little concerned with the wiring because of a) the burned wire, and my tach is still doing crazy things. Sometimes it's rock steady, other times its shows 0 rpms, or can be found at any other value as it's bouncing around. The car runs fine during these episodes. You say to check the primary and secondary windings on the coil...please let me know how to do this. I will try to get some pics this week to make it easier for you guys to help me. I really appreciate all the info you're offering...now it's time to put it to use. ~Darrin
  9. Ok...so yeah...a piece of burned wire. I don't have the point anymore...threw them away at the parts store. But in the future, I'll keep in mind that you all have a morbid taste when it comes to the death of autp parts. It's sad, really. lol....I understand...and I'll get pics from now on. I looked at my distributor and didn't see any part numbers on it, but if you still wanna see it, I can manage a photo I'm sure. Here, lets do this...tell me what you want to see, and I'll take picture of THAT.
  10. Here's a pic of the burned wire...it appears black where I spliced it, but in this pic it doesn't appear the same color. I put grease on the distributor shaft, and there is no felt block under my rotor. Yes, it's a mechanical, non-vacuum advance unit. Yes, I'm buying points for make/model, not distributor part number. I'm in Oklahoma here...ok? lol. I might want to go to the dealership and order a set of decent points, but I'm thinking that since I haven't been greasing the dist. shaft, maybe that friction is causing to much heat and causing the points to fail? Just an idea. Anyway...see the pic. ~Darrin
  11. Ok, ok....I'll get a timing light...geez...AND a dwell meter. I haven't ever checked the coil because I replaced it last year thinking that maybe it was part of a problem I had then, but instead it turned out to be a FLY in the 90 degree elbow from the fuel pickup. (Yes, a FLY) Anyway, since it's fairly new, I've not checked it, but I suppose I will, especially because of the burned wire. Since it was burnt, it was kind of a burnt color...well, dark at least. So that's a subject that I need to follow up on. However, I've got a different situation, and it seems to me it's obvious because of the name of the part..."breaker points". About 6 weeks ago I was motoring down the highway in southern Missouri...it was a hot day, about 95 degrees, and the car just shut down. DEAD. After investigating, I found the the spring on the "breaker" points had, well...broken. My dad drove 1hr to save the day and bring me a set. Those lasted until earlier this week when the car was running funny again and as stated in an earlier post, I replaced them. The car ran perfect. But today on the way home from work, I started noticing a little miss here and there and a surging feeling. Guessing it was the points, I readjusted them and it purred once again. Then about 1 mile from home, it completely shut down again. I took off the cap and the end of the "breaker" points had broken off. Grrrr! Luckily I had the other set that I'd removed and they got me to the parts store where they promptly gave me a free set. New points=happy car. Ok, so I've not been putting grease on the shaft, so I'll go do that now. But is there something else that could be causing the appropriately named breaker points to continue breaking? In the meantime, just to make everyone happy, I'm going to spend some money and get some more tools...yay! I'm sure it will be money well spent, even if only to get "Mint" off my back...lol. I appreciate all of the advice. I plan to use it. Please, your suggestions on the points...other than grease. I know one thing...I sure don't trust O'reilly's "Import Direct" brand very much at this point, and THAT, they say, is their better brand. Darrin
  12. Mint, the distributor shaft is smooth and shiny, but sometime I wonder if it's a little too smooth...like not enough action...some of the high spots seem higher than others. As for which wire it was that I replaced, I'm really not sure. I apologize that my only answer is "the burnt one"....I traced it back only to where I didn't see it burnt any longer, which was down on the left side below the master cylinder where it went into the harness with several others. It was one of the 3 that went to the positive side of the coil. The points being tight is a clue that the block was wearing down but these were only about a month old, and that's why I feared that they were beginning to give away like the last set did. Looking for a better quality set now...I see there are some on Ireland's site, so might be ordering them. No more O'reilly's points for me.....treating her to an alignment Friday.
  13. darrinos

    LRC (Little Red Car) around KC

    Ok, so this car needs a TON of work. But it's my daily driver and it makes me smile every moment I'm driving it, ugly as it is.
  14. So I left the office yesterday determined to open the distributor and set the points...yet again. When I reached for the cap, one of the plug wires came off. Suspecting this was the issue, I shut the hood and started it up. Still starting a little hard, but start she did and seems to be running perfect ever since. Thank you, AVG! I think lunch hours will no longer be spent re-working the fuel system as it seems more often to be the ignition. That Petronix is sounding better all the time.....

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