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gorms70

Solex
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  1. gorms70

    gorms70

  2. Thanks for the offer jimk that is just what I was hoping to find. I have sent you a PM. Thanks again for all the advice guys, this is what makes this forum so great. BTW I adjusted the points again and she is running like a top again, but I know its only a matter of time before I loose that air gap on the points.
  3. I've been buying parts from IE for about a year now and have found them to be top notch. Now I am in the fortunate position to be able to drive 5 min to pick up the parts and talk to the guys in person. I know they moved buildings a few months ago and that was hard on the team there. Hopefully your experience with them is the exception. I know I and others are very happy with the parts and service they supply our hobby. I've been buying parts from IE for about a year now and have found them to be top notch. Now I am in the fortunate position to be able to drive 5 min to pick up the parts and talk to the guys in person. I know they moved buildings a few months ago and that was hard on the team there. Hopefully your experience with them is the exception. I know I and others are very happy with the parts and service they supply our hobby.
  4. Guys know where I can get a replacement breaker plate for the Bosch distributor in my 1970 1600? One of the former owners must have over torqued the screw to set the points. Now the screw barely has any threads to bite on. Or can the plate be repaired? I am getting pretty good at setting the gap visually
  5. I had this issue on my 1600 a month ago. With modern electronic ignition systems on newer cars people these days forget to check their points on the older cars. After correctly adjusting mine the car fired up before I could turn the key all the way! I would check this first before messing with the carb.
  6. Thanks TonyB I have found and ordered the friction plate from a seller that is closing his BMW parts business online. How do I determine which pressure plate I have? My car has the older Porsche style four speed with the mechanical clutch. I've got Ireland Engineering local to me so I am sure they can provide the bearings I need if they are the same as found with a 215mm clutch. Thanks for your continued support. I am just trying to gather as much info as I can before I take the car out of service and limit her down time.
  7. Maybe my best option is to have my clutch relined. If so what other parts do I need to replace?
  8. The clutch on our very stock 1970 1600 has started slipping recently. Can I get my original re-surfaced? Or should I bite the bullet and convert to a 215mm? If so what parts can I keep stock and which doI need to replace?
  9. This is what I used to figure out which was correct for my car. Picked up the new parts on Monday and now the idle is much smoother. Thanks IE!
  10. I too have owned my 1600 for just a few month and have learned so much from reading your posts and your responses to my own questions. I know have a smooth running reliable 1600 to drive everyday. thanks c.d.iesel!
  11. I did not keep track, but there were probably an equal amount of lefts and rights. My theory is this: If the shoes are adjusted equally on each side then the friction on each side should be nearly the same and thus the temperature reading will also be the same.
  12. Where did you find the bleeder? I just checked Bavarian Autosport's website and they do not list the pressure bleeder you used.
  13. Just did much of what you have ahead of you. The one thing I would add is to strip and paint everything you take off. POR-15, products from Eastwood, or powder coating are all good choices. You want your job to last and be safe. The paint will protect your parts from rust and provide years of good service. Use the forum for a lot of what you are doing and document your set up as you go along.
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