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zinz

Alpina
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Everything posted by zinz

  1. What a beautiful car! I've not seen that slave cylinder before, but I'm sure someone here has. Can you disassemble yours? If the bore is the same diameter as a standard slave cylinder, then, you could rebuild yours with new seals from a modern one? Ed
  2. I was able to dissect the old centering bushing and install it into the new driveshaft. First remove the circlip, then I lopped off the nose of the old 4 speed flange with a cutting wheel…being careful not to cut the spring inside. Then I could drive the press-fit portion back out the front using a socket as a punch. Cleaned it all up, added a little grease, and put it all back together in the new driveshaft. Kinda neat how it all functions…it’s a spring-loaded ball and socket joint, just like Tzei said. Ed Z
  3. I’ll remove the one that came out of the 4 speed driveshaft. Shouldn’t pose a problem. It looks to be a sealed bearing. I’ll have some pictures tomorrow
  4. Thanks Karl. I saw that once I found out the correct name of the part I’m hoping the driveshaft shop will be able help me. Otherwise I’ll have order one
  5. Is this 5 speed driveshaft missing something? It doesn’t have the centering piece that the 4 speed flange has. I would think that’s critical to attach to the output shaft of the transmission. The Getrag 240 I’m putting in definitely has the nose off the back of the output shaft to help line things up. Hope the driveshaft shop has something that will work, or can re-use the one off the 4 speed driveshaft. Edit: It’s called a centering bushing. We’ll see what the driveshaft has in stock tomorrow I need #3 here:
  6. All around great guy, Barney Toler let me back in his shop for a 5 speed swap on the ‘72 Inka car. All in prep for MidAmerica in 2 weeks. Right off the bat the angry wrench had to be deployed when the brand new stainless hardware on the exhaust pipe galled and wouldn’t come off. Cutting wheel made short work of those bastards… 4 speed is out. I’ll drop the driveshaft off in the morning for shortening and modifying. Hoping for easy things on the install. Using Blunt’s bracket for the Getrag 240 and some other parts he sells; thank you very much. Clutch and pressure plate are new, and the FW has been slightly lightened. Thanks again Barney for the shop space and time and good company. Ed Z
  7. You'd be better off shaving a bit off the outer diameter of the Guibo. I did this on my '71 and that Guibo has gone almost 30,000 miles so far. It didn't take much to get good clearance. Rough sandpaper, or a sanding disc on a side grinder will get it done. Ed
  8. You installed the pushrod onto the slave cylinder, right? I got in a hurry when I changed out the 4 speed in my Inka car last year. Put a new slave cylinder on while I was at it, but forgot to swap the old pushrod onto the new slave. The clutch pedal would not move because the cylinder was bottomed out in the slave. Bonehead mistake, but Barney diagnosed it with me and kindly pointed out the errors of my ways. Ed
  9. Wow…. Like Toby says, someone spent a lotta hours with a die grinder pretty badass, though. That plumbing and the port injection… crazy
  10. Barney and I have used this body caulk from Eastwood’s with good success. Eastwood Flexible Strip Caulk Bk 2-lbs WWW.EASTWOOD.COM Seal-out moisture, debris from irregularareas; non-hardening, paintable
  11. JimK is always so busy… Lets see the pedal you chose 😁 So, it talks to the Haltec, right? EdZ
  12. Also, a very good thread on setting the float level here; where I also posted the picture of the witness mark on the outside of the carb body. Ed
  13. Setting float level is key to any carb tuning, for sure. The PHH allows you to set the float level very easily at the fuel inlet. Others here have manufactured their own factory float setting jig, but that requires removal of the carbs. Essentially, the fuel level should be midway in the body of the carb, as seen in the second picture. There is actually a float level mark on the outside of the carb body, between the two throats.
  14. Mike, When I was putting my '67, 2000CS back together, I had to abandon the early pressure plate because the throwout bearing was NLA...apparently, it's been NLA for a long time, and I could not find one. I had a local machine shop re-work my 6 bolt flywheel to fit a modern diaphragm pressure plate. (I believe Byron and Toby both chimed in on my question at the time on what needed to be done.) The machinist had no troubles making it happen. Ed Ed
  15. We re-did the AC in my e9 ('88, 535i ) a few years ago; new Sanden, new condenser, etc... everything but the expansion valve, simply because it's so damned difficult to get to. Pretty sure I need to bite the bullet and pull the dash apart to replace that expansion valve... my AC is only slightly better than the 500lb block of ice... It doesn't help that it's a Schwarz/Schwarz car in central Texas... I think some modern, ceramic window tint would help more than anything. Ed Z
  16. I need to remember that line... hilarious
  17. Max has them on sale right now BMW 2002 ROCKER PANELS | MIC 41356440140, 41356440141 WWW.MAX2002STORE.COM These beautiful rocker panels are just the ticket for the all so common rust on a BMW 2002! Ed Z
  18. No sir... I ordered two different sizes from that British site you sent me to...neither size would fit Any help would be most appreciated, Ed Z
  19. Where are you located? I would call Jack Fahuna at Pro Bimmers, he’s in LaLaLand Ed Z
  20. Drove the Inka with Barney, Greg, David, and Terry up to Waco to meet up with a bunch of Dallas area BMW folks. Beautiful driving day… That CSL is so cool… 😎 Ed Z
  21. Sweet!! Spain should have some dry cars, at least. Hope this one is a good one for you! That exterior door handle is the same as the later e9, so you should be able to locate one without too much trouble. You should look over at e9coupe.com there are plenty of Coupe folks that can provide assistance; especially in Europe. Ed
  22. I run Solex PHHs on my 2000CS. They idle beautifully and no particular issues. I like that you can easily set the float level from the outside of the carb, for fine-tuning. Here’s the ‘67, 2000CS at idle…right around 950rpm 94B3AD7A-1277-4449-B3E3-CB3965228CD9.MOV I run Solex DDHs on my ‘71, 2002. Those have the jets on the top, like a Weber, but still have the throttle shafts with no bushings. I slap some axle grease on the shafts to help seal the slight vacuum leak. I run a sock style filter and they roar, nicely. Ed Z
  23. Looks like Florida to me Ed Z
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