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Barrosco

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Everything posted by Barrosco

  1. Barrosco

    Barrosco

  2. Alex here (MX339 on R3v). It would definitely be wise of you to take what these guys tell you here to heart. I'm pretty sure Marshall and Toby have been around the track for longer than I've been alive. That cage definitely needs to go, and I don't think I've ever seen a seat that has no head support before! Something that hasn't yet been recommended is a HALO seat. I'd highly recommend one, especially for W2W. I've already seen a few big crashes in my short time in SE30 and some guys have been very fortunate to have a HALO. On the topic of driving, taking the E30 out first is definitely the way to go. You're going to need quite a lot of seat time before you actually go racing, and it's always best to make sure you get the time you paid for by driving something reliable that you're not consistently trying to develop and work on. You also learn a lot more on street tires than R-Comps or slicks. If you can consistently use a street tire to it's optimum, then you'll be a lot faster on stickier stuff. Oh yea, and I highly recommend the engine that Jeff is offering. I was actually chatting with him last night, and you'd have a hard time building an M10 like that for what he's asking. Let alone have someone who knows these engines build it for you.
  3. I'm unsure if I'm going to bother bringing the '02 as it's not particularly pleasant to look at, not drive on the highway. Granted my E30 isn't THAT much better looking either. Anyone have any input? Would the '02 be more appropriate?
  4. That's what the seller says. Apparently they're modified Turbo Flares, but they have the little flange on them so they must be IE Turbo Flares. They look surprisingly good, and I think if they were actual BMW flares they'd look even better.
  5. Yep, #16 is what I meant. I think he usually runs #6 as you can see in Ed's picture, but that 356 must have already had the number. To be fair, all the little 2002's probably weight well under 2500 pounds, as a matter of fact, I know Chuck's is quite a bit under 2000. They make us run at 2700 pounds in the E30's so that's probably where a lot of the time is. Please do post some of your pictures, David. Like I said, I missed out on a lot of the racing so I'd love to see them.
  6. Like Russ said, the Maroon #02 is Chuck Reynolds car, and boy is it fast. I talked to him on Thursday, but I guess it broke and I didn't get to see him again. Kind of a shame, since the only other relatively quick '02 out there was the #6 car which I think ran in the 1:43's at times. I know Chuck and his car are capable of 1:41's which is super quick for an '02 considering I run 1:45's in a Spec E30 and the super fast guys run 1:43's. I saw your car driving around the paddock on Thursday or Friday, Simon, but I never got to check it out or come say hi. I ended up being really busy working with the team that was running the old Grand Am RX-8 and the 3-Rotor Camel Lights prototype, so I missed most of the racing.
  7. I've been looking into it and mulling it over. I was able to find the training manual on the N20 and the only thing I've found so far that may be a bit difficult to control on standalone would be the electronically controlled variable oil pressure valve. It's not completely vital as the valve does have an emergency relief built in that will just allow the engine to use full pressure at all times. There may be a few other issues, but today's aftermarket ECU's are extremely capable. I'll continue my research and report back if I find anything else of use.
  8. I know that's what I did for the feed, Peter. I'm pretty sure I've got a soft line running alongside the hard line for the return. I'll probably bend up a hard line for the return at some point if that's the case.
  9. I found this interesting little car on Schnitzer's Facebook page. I've never seen one quite like it with the boxflares that have cutouts. I'm wondering if this was Schnitzer's try at rear mounted cooling in Group 2 in response to what Alpina was doing with your car, Mark (if it even is a Gr. 2 car). I suppose it could be an early iteration of their Gr. 5 car too, especially since I don't believe I've ever seen any Gr. 2 car with centerlocks. Any thoughts, Mark?
  10. I've got a friend running a G250 with his M42 swap track car (which I have not seen in person). He came up with his own setup that pushed the engine way further back than Jake's kit, which brought about some issues. The main issue with the G250 is the bellhousing. As you've seen in Jake's kit, you have to grind the rib off of the bottom of the G240. Well, from the looks of it, the G250 may not allow for as much clearance. I know my buddy ended up chopping out a lot of the underside of the bellhousing, but like I said, his engine is much further back and I believe his centerlink is probably closer to the mounting flange of the bellhousing. You can tell in Toby's picture that there is a step in the bellhousing that may provide enough clearance. I don't recall if my friend had said whether or not he had issues with fitting it in the tunnel itself either. Suffice to say it may be possible, but you won't know for sure unless you try. I know I'd like to get one in my car sooner or later.
  11. Do you still happen to have these? Edit: Just realized there's a phone number. Nevermind.
  12. Well, the G240 is a weaker box, so I don't think it's done very often since the 260 is perfectly suited for the M20. Not many people have a reason to use the smaller box. That being said, I believe the stack height of the flywheel and clutch components needs to be the same as it would for an M42 with a G240. I don't see a reason why being mated to an M20 would change anything. Unless the mounting flange on the crank is a different depth than that of the M42. I would suggest you measure that and make sure there aren't any issues. If they do turn out to be the same, then the M20 flywheel swap setup would work just fine. You can go either route, but it either has to be the flywheel spacer with the rest of the stock M20 components or a 323 TOB without the spacer.
  13. Here's a definitive thread on the G240 with an M20 flywheel: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=269072 The best way to go at it seems to be an M20 flywheel with the little M42 spacer, and standard M20 parts from there back.
  14. No, no, no, Toby. That's an absolutely ridiculous suggestion. First off, what you're suggesting is blasphemy on account of even considering installing something produced by anything but the finest of German engineers. Secondly, if you're going that far, why not spring for the dual stage supercharger and water injection to get that high altitude performance? This is what I propose:
  15. Yikes, usually when things start to let go like that they really tend to make themselves known. Awfully strange that wasn't making any noise. Have you gotten the trailing arm adjusters tacked in yet, Marshall? I helped a Spec-E30 friend re-install the trailing arms on his subframe while it was out of the car and even then we had a hell of a time getting them back into the subframe. I'm assuming that it was a problem with his measuring and or welding, but it still makes me a bit weary to put them in any of my cars if they're going to be that big of a pain to initially install, let alone adjusting them. Ray, has your shock been relocated? I've never seen a rear Massive kit like that, and I quite like it.... Is that rotor the same size as Marshall's?
  16. Scandalous! It seems like Ray's constant nagging is extremely effective. Are they the ones from American Racing?
  17. Yep, part of it is the clearance issues with the E36 pan and intake manifold. Now I don't know the specifics, but I know of a few guys who have been able to get the E36 pan to work. The other issue with the M44 is that they're equipped with EWS. I did do a quick search and it looks as if Barry at Midnight Tuning may have come up with a solution. If you're serious about the swap I'd get in touch with him.
  18. Those little boots are usually lost or torn. They're still available from BMW so if you want some nice ones that'd probably be the way to go. Parts numbers are 13711727097 and 13711727094 but Penske Parts is quoting $53 for the main boot which is pretty high. Might want to shop around with the part numbers and see if anyone has them cheaper.
  19. I highly appreciate that info, Marshall. Honestly, I could see my car needing what those rotors and calipers have to offer. It'll have a higher weight than most 02' track cars, and 245 Hoosiers would probably make good use of that much brake. Obviously the bearing is the weak point in that system as you've figured out. I've been pondering what options there could possibly be in order to retrofit a newer, more substantial bearing. The only thing I've come up with so far is to use an E30 strut, which as you know is a completely different approach to front suspension geometry. I suppose it would be plausible to come up with a tubular control arm much like the DTM E30 M3's and find a suitable mounting place on the frame rails similar to the E30's. That would definitely take some serious engineering to make sure the geometry is correct though. That mechanical engineering degree sure is going to come in handy.... We should have just bought E30's, huh? By the way, I've been meaning to ask if you're ever planning on moving to a true rear coilover rather than continuing to fight that rear spring perch.
  20. I wasn't entirely clear on which sixes I was referencing to, which would be the 24 valves, sorry about that. But there is an M60 compatible 5 speed, which would be the same weight as the 24v 5 speeds. But here is where I'm getting my info from: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=233682 How accurate said source is, I can't be entirely sure, but it does provide a good baseline. My M60 estimation was pretty far off though. I'll go ahead and transfer some of the relevant weights to this thread. -M10 + G240 transmission = 396lbs -M20 + G260 transmission = 497lbs -M42 + 5 speed Getrag transmission = 427lbs The other engines listed don't include the weight of the transmission, so I've gone ahead and got the weight for the ZF S5D-320Z which is the 5 speed for the M60 and some of the 24v Sixes (can also be used as a 5 speed for the S54), and that is 77.1 pounds. Source:http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showpost.php?p=14708484&postcount=22 -Aluminum Block M52B28 W/Vanos + ZF 320Z= 451.9lbs -Iron Block M50 W/Vanos + ZF 320Z = 513.6lbs (Comparable to the S50.) -M60 + ZF 320Z= 540.1lbs -S54 + ZF 320Z = 555.1lbs! I'll go ahead and list the weight differences compared to the M10. Total M42 weight difference = 31lbs Total M20 weight difference = 101lbs Total Alum. M52 weight difference = 55.9lbs Total Iron M50 weight difference = 117.6lbs Total M60 weight difference = 144.1lbs Total S54 weight difference = 159.1lbs Now, we have to remember that these figures may not be entirely correct. It doesn't seem likely to me that the S54 is actually 15 pounds heavier than the M60, but it could be possible. So what do these numbers tell us? Well, if you really don't want to add much weight an M42 is definitely the way to go. On the six cylinder side of things the aluminum M52 weighs nearly 50 pounds less than an M20! Once again, that's if this figures are completely true. We also see that the M60 is a little under 30 pounds heavier than a standard 24v and 40 pounds heavier than an M20. Quite a difference, but I have to think that the M60 carries some of that weight further back than the six cylinders do. I really don't know what to say about the S54's weight, I'm going to look around for some other sources and see if that's a correct figure. I'd really like to get some numbers on the length of an M20 vs. that of a 24v engine, as well as the M60, so we can see what the weight distribution may really be like. Andrew, you obviously have far more experience with 6 cylinder 2002's than I, and you seem to be a big supporter of them. Do you think the data here makes a case for the 24v engines over the M20? In the case of the M60, 40 pounds is quite a substantial amount of weight, but considering that weight should be concentrated further back, do you feel like it would be viable? I mean, the M20 is already 100 pounds heavier than an M10. Anyways, all these numbers were probably unnecessary for this discussion, but I've always wanted to see how the weights really compared. I'm going to look around some more and see if I can find some more reliable weights, as I feel like some of these are off.
  21. A few things to consider, Dave. Remember that the S54 is a drive by wire engine. It also has fairly substantial EWS systems that have to be bypassed, which tends to be a fairly expensive process. If you really want to go with a Big 6 I would highly suggest an S50/2, especially because you guys over the pond got the real S50's that make around the same power as an S54. I too have been kicking around the idea of something more than a pokey little 4 cylinder, and Ive started to like the idea of a V8. BMW's M60 doesn't weight much more than 10-20 pounds over the 6's due to the aluminium block, and the weight is situated further back than the 6's. There's also something to be said of a menacing grumble being emitted from a cute little 02'. Just food for thought.
  22. Good to see the ole' M2 is still at it. Going back through your thread has been immensely helpful for me to start forming some brake/suspension plans for my M42 car. As well as some of the trial and error you've gone through. I do have a question about your brake setup though. It looks like you've got Wilwood SL4's with lug mounts (from the looks of it you've got 1.75" pistons in your calipers), and the Wilwood kit that Ireland currently sells comes with Dynapro Radial mount calipers. I've decided that I'm going to make myself an SL4 kit, but I'd like to know what dimensions your rotors are. The Dynapro kit Ireland is selling uses 300mm (11 3/4") x 20.5mm (.81"), is your setup the same size?
  23. Up for grabs is a whole bunch of Roundie tail light assemblies, housings, and lenses. This includes a brand new passenger side tail light assembly. That is, brand new in the box and wrapping. $325 OBO There are also a few sets of lenses, including a red center set which is in great condition. Only one lens out of the bunch has a bulb burn on it. First come first serve in regards to the quality of lenses. $150 OBO for the standard sets. $200 OBO for the red center set. Last is a box of housings and trim rings, all of which seem to be in good shape. $150 OBO per set of housings or trim rings. Because there aren't a huge amount of these parts out there it's a bit hard to find compareable pricing. If you feel I'm out of line on my prices, feel free to send me an offer. Thanks, Alex Location: Atlanta, Georgia
  24. I wouldn't know as I didn't try; I'm still waiting on flares to use that setup. I would imagine there will probably be some clearance issues in the nose while close to lock, but nothing some massaging wouldn't take care of. I think 225's may be too much tire for a 7 inch wide wheel though.
  25. Here's my car with 225/45/15's BFG G-Force Rivals and stock fenders. They're on 15x8 ET12 Kosei K1's. I was concerned that I wouldn't have enough clearance between the strut up front so I went with 205/50's up front. You can imagine my dismay when the 225's ended up clearing.... You will need a fairly low offset up front in order to clear the struts and trailing arms with the 225's. I don't forsee the sidewall being too tall with a 225/50 and flares though. I do prefer a little less sidewall than that though.
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