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About Grims_73_2002

  • Birthday May 14

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    Grimsby, Ontario

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  1. Sratner, is there a remote possibility that your ignition coil has gone bad after all these years. Your symptoms sound similar to mine, eventually cured by a new coil.
  2. The noise problem was simply due to ... the flywheel shield was touching the flywheel slightly. Duh. Took it off, a few taps with a hammer, re-install and no more noise. Another successful 5-speed conversion.
  3. Thank you TahoeDon, Ray and JimK - It looks like changing transmission fluids may not be magic-solution. I continue to have embarrasing / inconsistent squeals and/or chitter noises (not really rattles) noises under a variety of engine startup, clutching, de-clutching, decelerating in gear, reversing, etc. It wakes up the neighborhood on startups and the first few miles, then subsides (but never fully disappears) over the course of the first 2~3 miles. The whole sequence starts again after simply turning off the car, and re-starting. It's a 1973 2002. I'm currently running a used OD 5-speed (made no noise when run off a high-speed drill, in any gear) with new input/output/selector seals and 4-bolt output flange, all installed c/w lubed input splines; new 323 TO bearing (Ireland/Sachs), new Ireland brass pivot pin, the original 5-speed TO bearing fork and dual-loop holder spring; new clutch master / slave cylinders and new Ireland SST clutch hose, new sealed pilot-bearing (BavAuto, with the original felt & cap re-installed); Massive Brakes tranny mounts c/w shortened cross-member / updated tranny rubber mount; a shortened driveshaft with new center-bearing all properly aligned and pre-loaded; a shortened shifter platform/fork; and using Redline MTL 75W80 oil. As noted previously, I've got a 228 mm clutch setup (which still all looked new & fresh, thus was not replaced) on a Previous Owner lightened flywheel. The tranny bottom cover plate (re-used from the original 4-speed) was originally a noise issue until I shimmed it forward with 4~5 washers. I am mystified ... when I went and re-installed the 4-speed setup back in, none of the noises were there. Put the 5-speed setup back in and here we go again with the inconsistent noises. Is it possible that the PO's lightened flywheel is causing this (either due to it's reduced mass, or the possibility that with the machining, the FW surface is too far from the TO bearing letting it bounce around somehow)? Is it possible that the new TO bearing is itself bad (it rolled stiffer than the old 4-speed one)? Any other thoughts other than tranny internal bearings? Do I possibly have an engine/crankshaft end-float problem? The car goes up on stands on Halloween Day, and I'm willing to replace FW, 228 mm clutch package, and TO bearing. Thanks in advance.
  4. Tahoedon, I've got the same problem ... the PO had a lightened flywheel installed, which was fine with the 4-speed. When I recently converted to a 5-speed, the rattles started. Did the fix" solve your transmission/clutch rattle problem, and if so, what mix of fluids did you use? R
  5. Has anyone used a Permatex Vinyl & Leather Repair Kit to repair a cracked dashboard. Any experience, tips or secrets would be appreciated.
  6. WTB: used/good-condition; Steering Column Lower Trim Panel; P/N 32311110912. Mine is so broken that it won't hold the Horn Ring anymore. Location: Toronto / Niagara Falls / Buffalo area
  7. Learning the new website and it looks great! Where did the "Buy Your Hot Wheels BMW 2002 FAQ Now" link go ?? Jim N.
  8. Thank you all. My odds of doing the bushing install right went to 100%. Jim N.
  9. A stupid Trailing Arm Bushing Question: I have 4 new OEM-rubber trailing arm bushings to install. I can't decipher my old photos for sure, and since there are 3 ways to do it wrong, and only one right way, better check - do the fat ends go on the outsides of the sleeves? I recall seeing a post on this, but can't find it now.
  10. Mar 27-2013 Update: To all above - thanks. Lacquer thinner and all-thread got the glass beads, gunk, etc. out of Tube No. 1. I gained a few 16th's and I can now hand-tighten the alloy collar down 5 turns. The Bilstein strut collar tool will probably take it down a few more turns, but will probably be hard to source in Canada, so if anyone has one in the Toronto-Buffalo area, and you're willing to lend it for a while, let me know. Tube No. 2 (not previously mentioned) is a totally different situation. My mechanic friend took about 2-days of effort to get the old Monroe out ... which he finally achieved by grinding out the cap at the bottom of the strut and apparently pushing the cartridge out somehow from the bottom. He then kindly welded the cap back on, and gave it back to me with a caution that the new cartridge will be tough to put in. No kidding - it only goes down 6 inches before jamming on the rust carbuncles, carbon buildup, etc. that was holding up the Monroe. So far nothing has worked to clear the crap out (varsol, wire brushes on bit extensions, etc.). This weekend - back to the mechanic; removing the bottom cap again, and running a small engine cylinder hone up and down the tube from both ends ... measuring for ovality, checking for straightness, etc. Will provide update later.
  11. Myltle, the part numbers are right ... P30-0023. Anyone else any suggestions?
  12. '73 2002. I pulled my nice-new Bilstein HD cartridges out of the boxes this afternoon, and started setting up for installation into the front tubes. Visually, it was quickly obvious that the yellow part of the cartridge was longer than the tube. Verified that with a measuring tape - the cartridge's yellow portion is about 17-5/8" and the inside depth of both tubes is about 17-7/16". Inserted the cartridge anyways (see photo) ... it doesn't seat down all the way. Threaded the Bilstein collar onto the threads ... it only went down 2.75 turns (see photo), i.e. not enough. Before I start using a hammer, do I have the wrong cartriges (ordered from BavAuto) or are my tubes not right. Any experience / suggestions?
  13. VIN 2585568 - not very close to your VIN, but I am curious what anyone can tell me about when it was built, where sold, etc. It's currently sitting in my garage in the Niagara Peninsula area, Ontario, getting it's underbelly redone (front and rear subframes, total suspension rehab, Bilstein HDs, Rota R20 15x6 with 195/50's, brakes, gear linkage rebuild, etc.). Pictures will be available in a few months. P.S. fantastic forum.
  14. Perhaps you are missing the jumper wire across the steering shaft guibo.
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