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About sratner

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  1. I was the winning bidder of a 2002 steering wheel on eBay. The auction stated at $1 with $45 shipping and ended with my only bid of a $1. When the auction was over I proceeded to pay and received an error message which read something like the ‘seller can not take payments at this time.” Within 10 minutes the seller cancelled the transaction and I received an email from eBay that read your request to cancel your bid has been excepted and the seller has cancelled the transaction. So I wrote to the seller saying that I didn’t cancel the transaction you did. He replied back that there was a problem with PayPal. Within minutes of that email the steering wheel was re-listed at a starting bid of $75 and buy it now of $100. I figured i’d let everyone know on the forum just in case someone here attempts to buy the wheel. The listing is https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-e9-2002-2002ti-2002-tii-1802-steering-wheel-steeringwheel-leather-3-0-csi-cs/123888054749?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 The photos of the wheel are awful and I wasn’t really sure what I was getting but for $46 it was worth the gamble. Ebay’s response was to leave a negative review. I’ve used eBay for 20 years and have never had a bad experience. That changed tonight.
  2. after trying everything suggested i'm still having the same issue. it might have gotten a little easier to start but it's still a long way from being right. here's the problem one more time hoping that someone has another idea before i fold and bring it to a shop- 1. the car starts cold and runs perfectly for hours. if i shut the car off and wait 5-10 minutes it'll start right up. if i leave the car for an hour and try to start it it starts but within 15 seconds it dies. when i try to restart it it's hard starting and it eventually starts then quickly dies. this repeats for 6-7 times then it finally starts and i can drive off. 2.the points, condenser, spark plugs, rotor, cap and coil are all new (it even happens with the old coil). i used a rebuild kit on the weber, set the floats, cleaned out the idle jets even though none of this was needed. there's gas in the filter, the pump works fine (and is basically new, probably has 10k on it). 3.i haven't messed with timing or valves since the car runs great otherwise. could this be timing or valves? the timing and valves were done 6k ago. 4. i've noticed there are several different condensers for the 2002. is it possible i'm not using one for a 1974? i'd appreciate any thoughts on what else i've missed or i haven't tried. thank you.
  3. well today i changed out the floats, needle valve, tightened all fuel line connections and replaced all fuel lines in the trunk and engine compartment. car stated right up, drove perfectly and I was feeling pretty good. I did a few short trips turning the car on and off without any issues. although I did notice that the car took a little longer to start after each short trip. so after a 30 minute drive i parked the car for about an hour came back it started right up, i drove it about 100 yards and it sputtered and stalled. i tried to restart it without any luck. after numerous attempts it finally stated 45 minutes later. this is defiantly outside temperature related. today was the hottest it’s been and the wait to start the car was the longest so far. do you think this is vapor lock? i just can’t figure out why this is happening all of a sudden? do you think installing the fuel return valve will solve it?
  4. I had thought vapor lock too but no gas smell and the fuel lines (trunk and engine compartment) are new. i’m changing out the floats and float valve this weekend to see if that helps. thanks.
  5. thanks for the photo. that piece is long gone. since this was never a problem before I think your thoughts on the floats might be my problem. l’ll check it out over the weekend. thanks again.
  6. thanks mike. i wish my situation was more like yours. at least yours starts after 5-10 seconds of cranking. mine starts right away but only lasts a second or two before it sputters off. since it just started happening i’m wondering what Tom suggested regarding the floats might be my problem.
  7. thanks Tom. this is very helpful. i’m not sure about the floats or the fuel diverter valve. what does the diverter valve look like and where is it?
  8. Let me start by saying that i've had my '74 2002 for 36 years, i know it inside and out and it's never done this before. It has run great and has always been very reliable until this past year. It starts perfectly when cold, drives great but when i shut it off and come back an hour later it's rough to start. Turn the key and it starts for a second or two then stalls. And, it does that several times over several minutes. Starts, sputters and stalls. Then after many attempts it finally starts and runs great until i shut it down and leave it for an hour or so and then the symptoms repeat. So today when it happened i looked at the fuel filter which had some gas in it but the carb bowls looked dry. It's a weber 32 36, manual choke. I just can't figure out why this happening all of a sudden. Anyone have any idea what's going on? I'd appreciate any thoughts?
  9. great job! is there any chance that i can get the file too? thank you.
  10. For sale "BMW '02 Restoration Guide" in excellent+ condition. Somehow i ended up with two. $15.00 plus shipping. Thanks. -Steve
  11. it seems a brand new out of the box condenser can be bad. i replaced the new condenser with another new one and the car runs perfect with the new coil. dlacey suggested that it was a bad condenser and he was right on! thanks for the help.
  12. thanks. i’ll try another new condenser to see if that helps. could the voltage regulator be an issue?
  13. ok here's what i've discovered. the new coil has the same markings as the old one. both coils measure 3.0 resistance. should i measure voltage output? there are no loose connections and the condenser is new (but i'll try another new one this weekend). i did learn that the rotor reads R1 instead of R5, does that matter? thanks.
  14. Thanks. All good stuff. I guess I don’t understand why the old coil works fine with my current set up. FYI- The rotor is R5, the plugs are BP6ES and the wires are Kingsborne 12-7405. I’ll check the coil resistance tomorrow and report back. The vacuum runs to the Weber and that’s been like that since 1980 when we re-laced the soles and removed the emissions. I’ll try running without and see if it matters. Thanks for your help.
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