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jjbunn

Solex
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Posts posted by jjbunn

  1. Snigfargle? Looks better than mine! (I pulled mine out of a field after years of neglect. Rust-free, but everything else is crumbly. Dash looks like a relief map of Bryce Canyon) I think I'll keep an eye on it and see how the bidding goes. Would give me an excuse to head to So Cal and catch a Trojan game. Of course, I have my own tow-dolly since I also own a Jeep!

     

    Good luck!

    Thanks! Yes, it's a presentable vehicle  :D

  2. The thing smokes so much I'm reluctant to take it on the public roads: it's a bit of a Catch-22! 

     

    I'm not sure anymore that it's a carb problem in any case - everything on the carb seems to check out. (The power valve is working correctly.) On the other hand, six months ago, before I started messing with the carb in an attempt to fix a rough idle, there was no smoke/rich running issue. 

     

    Thanks for all the suggestions - much appreciated. If anyone reading this lives nearby and would be kind enough to take a look, please contact me.

  3. I've about had it trying to fix my rich running / smoking exhaust problem. I can't see what is wrong - everything looks fine, but it's just so frustrating to keep firing the thing up after the latest fiddling around, only to have it warm up and start belching smoke again. I've been weeks off and on messing around with the Weber, the timing, plugs, wires, dizzy, ignition etc.. It started out fun, but now it's gone sour :(

     

    Any bright ideas? Anyone with a known good Solex they want to dispose of? Or should I just put the car up on Ebay and call it a wash?  :wacko:

     

     

     

     

  4. I think, if that's not moving, that your power valve is always open.

     

    If air's leaking, that diaphragm is shot.  If it's not leaking, then the

    diaphraghm/ rod is stuck.

     

    They rebuild kits I have purchased came with a new one (Royze)

    but it's been a while since I did one.

     

    t

     

    I wasn't sucking hard enough! When I suck really hard, the piston moves down, and moves back up when I stop sucking.

     

    Here's another thing I don't understand: if I keep screwing the mixture screw in (clockwise), while keeping the revs up a little to keep the engine from stalling (it will stall otherwise), there is no noticeable reduction in the smoke coming out of the exhaust. I would have expected that leaning the mixture would have stopped the smoke, no?

     

    I have something really screwed up somewhere, I'm sure!

  5. Nah, it's not your jetting.

     

    If you blow into the fuel inlet, does the needle valve stop all air at that 41mm measurement?

     

    If you suck on the power valve diaphragm port, does the power valve piston suck up into

    the cover 1/4" or so, easily and without catching or binding?  ( a piece of vacuum tubing helps with this)

     

    You can always lower your float level a bit and see what it does.  It SHOULD lean everything out.

     

    t

    I'll do these tests and report back. While I have the cover off I'll try bending the tab to decrease the level (i.e. increase from 41mm at shut), right?

     

    Great suggestions - thanks!

  6. I have the 32/36 on my 74 and rebuilt with the "plastic" floats. I bought the rebuild kit from pierce manifolds. They have some tuning info.   

     

    When did you last check the brass float? Mine was running really rich because one of the pontoons was taking on gas and sinking. 

     

    After I replaced the float and rebuilt it I was running rich but tinkered and adjusted with the engine really warm and it screams now at base settings, 1.5 turns out. I don't know my jet sizes (I'm a newbie) I remember seeing 160/170 on the air correctors so I assume all is stock based on the below. Also, I measured float with the plate on it's side (float dangling down) from plate base to top of the float at 41, I think plastic said 35 though. 

     

    The book I have says the standard jetting for weber 32/36 DGAV are as follows:

    - Main Venturi: 26/27

    - Aux Venturi: 3.5/3.5

    - Main Jet: 140/140

    - Em Tube: F50/F50

    - Air Corrector Jet: 170/160

    - Idle Jet: 60/50

    - Pump Jet: 50

    - Float Valve: 2.0

     

    This site helped me rebuild the carb and may be valuable. 

     

    http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide-rebuilding-a-weber-3236-dgav-carb/

     

    p.s I hear the 38/38 is really nice while still using the stock manifold (with some cutting), but why not just go all out and do dual 40's! 

     

    Cheers! 

    I've checked the brass floats carefully - they are undamaged and do not take on gas. They are both sitting at the same height. With the cover vertical, the floats hanging down, and the tab just touching the ball bearing, I measured 41mm from the cover gasket to the base of both floats. With the cover horizontal, and the floats hanging down, the measurement was 51mm. So, as per specs.

     

    The valve itself is new - the tip is clean and unscored. (It has some reddish paint on it, which is unmarked.)

     

    If I look in the float bowl after the engine has been running a while, and after I remove the cover, I see maybe 15mm depth of gas. This doesn't look like a too-full amount (?).

     

    I feel I'm missing something significant. My main idle jet is a 50 - perhaps this is too big?

  7. NO! Don;t give up. I have the same carb..DGAV 32-36 from Redline, with a "fake" Pertronix and stock dizzy and stock air cleaner.

    There are plenty of threads here about setting these up.

    Look for the main article by C. D.iesel. It used to be in a catagory called "Archives" but I can;t find that right now either.

    He's a non-nonsense, do it properly the first time kinda guy but his formula works.

    My '76er starts and idles mostly fine and rips plenty good enough!

     

    I can't find the original 'formula' since the FAQ was re-organized, but I did find this partial:

    CD´s Primary - idle 60 main 140 air corr 145

    CD´s secondary -  idle 55 main 170  air corr 175

    Thanks for the encouragement - that's two votes for throwing it in the bin, and one against  :)

     

    I have read most of c.d.iesel's posts on this topic, but my problem remains. I don't think my problem is main jets, but I may be wrong. I did try the 60/55 idle combination already.

  8. Background: this is a '73 with the original engine, pertronix points and a Weber 32/36 with water choke. The car hasn't been driven regularly for some years, but everything "works" - I've been mainly doing r&r on things like new plugs, wires, oil, filters, seals, setting timing, etc.. Now I am ready to go out on the road, but have a couple of issues before I do so. The main issue is I seem to be running very rich - there is grey smoke out of the exhaust once the engine starts to warm up, and the plugs are sooty. I'd like to put some miles on the engine before getting too hung up on tuning etc., but the state it's in is producing too much smoke to drive without a gas mask  :angry:

     

    My feeling is that the carb is set up incorrectly. Here's what I have:

     

    1) brass floats: level set to 41mm when valve closed, measured from gasket to extremity of both floats, level set to 51mm when floats at bottom of travel

     

    2) idle jets: 50 on primary, 55 on secondary (I also tried 60 on primary, but that was predictably worse)

     

    3) main jets: 125 on primary, 127 on secondary

     

    4) correction jets: 175 and 170

     

    5) emulsion: both F50

     

    6) discharge: 50

     

    I start with the idle mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed - the engine starts (but without enthusiasm). Turning clockwise (leaner) the engine starts to stumble. Engine seems happiest when the screw is about 2 turns out - which is apparently OK according to what I've read.

     

    Vacuum on the manifold is 20mmHg at idle. I'm pretty confident I have no vacuum leaks. Air filter is removed for these tests.

     

    Observation: before the engine warms up, if I open the choke butterflys by hand, revs go up. This suggest that I'm running too rich, doesn't it? After the engine warms up, butterflys open completely, as they should.

     

    By the time the engine is warmed up, the guff from the exhaust is choking! 

     

    Any comments/suggestions? Any local experts in Pasadena who'd be prepared to take a look? I feel like I may be missing something basic related or unrelated to the carb!

     

     

     

  9. Hi Roland and Daron,

     

    I realised based on the feedback that I really need to drive the car a bit before pursuing this any further - it may just be that it needs a good run  :P

     

    To that end I had to replace a couple of the tires, which I did this week. I also got hold of 55 and 60 idle jets from Ken and installed them, and re-timed the engine after my repair of the distributor. Now I'm all set for a spin round the block, and perhaps further, but some dude has parked in front of my gate, and I can't get the car out!

     

    I'll report back when I have more news  :)

  10. Very useful article  :D

     

    Any tips on rejuvenating very old/tired/oxidised paint? The Malaga paint on my O2 is dull and looks dusty/dry. But if I wet it with water, it looks fantastic! I've tried all sorts of compounds and polishes, but nothing works - typically it looks good for a day then fades back to its original state. 

  11. that is pretty botched up!+x87%#4

     

    good thing - the gear looks normal for a-bizzilion miles

     

    bad thing - all that stuff not fitting tightly and flopping

    around and falling out adds to the inaccurate timing of

    any spark and the motor will run rough, ping, sluggish,

    low power, rattle ...............

     

    so maybe a ' new ' donor distributor with your electronic

    trigger transplanted will save time, agravation, money,

    I'll get a donor, as you suggest.

     

    I did fix up this one today - the spring had come off the advance mechanism (should there be 2 springs - looked like it) but it was so crudded up it probably wasn't moving anyway. So I cleaned and lubed everything, and put it together.

     

    Should a vacuum advance hold vacuum, or just respond to vacuum? The one on this dizzy responds, but leaks it away in a second or so.

  12. To my tired old eyes, your plug looks fouled with a combination of oil and fuel deposits, in other words, incomplete combustion. This could be caused by a lot of things, including retarded ignition timing, lugging an engine in high gear and improper spark plug heat range.  This occurance is also not unusual if you have been doing a lot of tinkering, and this includes swapping spark plug leads and squirting carb cleaner in every direction.   Since you have not fully disclosed the condition of your engine, at least not in this thread, is it possible the combustion chambers are laden with deposits that have been loosened up with your latest handiwork?  (I might have suspected a crankcase blow-by issue, but for your picture showing no connection from the valve cover breather and the carb.)  How did the the plugs you replaced look?  Dry and worn or wet with deposits?  Those old plugs may be able to tell you a lot.    How many miles on your engine?  Does it consume any noticeable amounts of oil?  Do you have any recent compression numbers?  (None of this information is a necessity, but the more you know, . . . is generally a good thing.)

     

    Looking at the plugs after twenty minutes of spirited driving might give you a fair indication of engine health.  So might a .25  mile run, if the engine was built specifically for that purpose.   But you mention twenty minutes of engine "running."  That is not necessarily the same thing,  If you are constantly throttling up the unloaded engine, you are engaging the accelerator pump and flooding addiitional fuel to the cylinders - which is a naturally rich condition.       

     

    I just read Daron's post and agree with his suggestion about double checking the distributor and the possibility of low temperature fouling, meaning you might consider a hotter heat range plug - as suggested a BP5ES.  (I have run both numbers on my '02s going mostly with the "5s" when the majority of the driving is city traffic as opposed to the open road.  The '5s tend to look extremely white (as in overheated) on my cars after long hightway trips.  The "6s" tend to look tan and the engines are less prone to pinging on pump gas with the cooler plugs.)  There is no question that a worn distributor, or one with a gummed up centrifugal advance can impact the full range of engine operation.  To be clear, I was only focusing on your rough idle, as you did not mention any other engine issues.  Of course you should have a rock steady timing mark, but if misfiring is present, it can cause an erratic mark.  Since the idle circuit affects idle as well as low speed part throttle operation, inclusive of 1400 rpm, some mark jumping is understandable.  However, the mark should be stable at higher rev ranges.  Did you have a rock-steady timing mark before the tuneup and carb rebuild?

     

    if your engine is past its prime, (not saying that it is) and carburetion is determined not to be a primary issue, you might consider employing the "Big Dog" timing method mentioned early on in this forum.  Recommended timing settings are great as a baseline for most fresh, up-to-spec M10 engines,  but so many engines in 40+ yo cars can't claim that mantle.  

     

    hth

     

    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/44252-retarded-newbie-sees-the-light/

    Hi Roland,

     

    I did keep the old plugs: Bosch W7DC. They are very cruddy - lots of oily soot on each. So that doesn't bode well.

     

    The history of the car is a complete mystery to me - I bought it on Ebay from a guy in Lancaster, CA, who delivered it on a flatbed, although it did run, it wasn't highway safe. There was a Title, a few receipts, that's it. It hasn't been off jackstands since I drove it onto my property at that time. The car was in very shabby condition indeed, so I have no idea of the engine mileage, or oil consumption. Based on the wear on the original driver's footwell carpet, my guess is that the car has done a high mileage. It's fine: I bought the car as a project/challenge, and I didn't pay much :D  

    I added an oil pressure gauge, so I know that the oil pressure is good - around 30 after warm up. I never checked dynamic timing before the carb rebuild.

     

    When I check the timing again tomorrow, I will see if the timing mark stabilizes at higher revs. The engine does rev very freely, and sounds great when doing so  :)

     

    Thanks as always for your encouraging advice.

  13. Fix the distributor first. the ball should be steady. the distributor post shows your dizzy needs a little internal R&R. maybe a hotter plug like a BP5ES. a longer video with a fixed position camera. Cam or no cam ? Vacuum gauge pressure- what is the rhythm of the vacuum ? coupled with compression and leak down tests. Is the carb float correct height? break booster check valve correct orientation? can you narrow it down to a particular cylinder by removing an HT lead one at a time.

    On "reverse" points...as you see the PO didn't purchase the correct pertronix unit and had to wrap the wires around the center shaft causing a potential long term viability issue of the pertronix issue. Last time I pointed this out to someones dizzy picture I had the response..."It works"

    but now I searched and realized that was your post from March http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/138580-pertronix-sensor-wire-rub/

    Yes, the wires had rubbed, as shown by the photo in that post, and it's true that it works  ;) The dizzy is now sorted, at least temporarily until I get a replacement from Ken. At that point I may replace the Pertronix.

     

    I'm afraid I don't always understand some of the jargon, like "reverse points". E.g. I'm not clear what you mean by "cam or no cam"?

     

    The vacuum rhythm: do you mean the frequency at which the idle speed drops and rebounds? I'd say it's about every couple of seconds.

     

    Yes, the brake booster valve is in the correct way (and there is a good vacuum on the brake booster).

     

    I need to:

    a) check the float height in the carb

    B) check each HT lead in turn

    c) take a longer, steadier video

    d) take another look at the timing since the distributor was repaired.

     

    Do you think re-gapping the plugs to, say, 0.035 might improve matters - I saw reports of improved running with Pertronix if the plugs were gapped wider?

  14. I cleaned up and fixed the distributor issues, replaced it in the same orientation, and ran the engine again.

     

    No noticeable change. I was hoping that I would at least get some improvement!

     

    I ran the engine for about 20 minutes, revving it up and down, and then pulled the plugs. These are new plugs, and they all look like this:

     

    9480773329_ba0a7f1355_b.jpg

     

    I'm not any good at reading plugs, but doesn't this look like too rich a mixture? Somewhat sooty and wet.

  15. Today I pulled the distributor out of the car, as part of a rough idle investigation.

     

    I'd welcome comments on whether this dizzy should be consigned to the trash, or if it can be cleaned up and pressed back into service.

     

    This is a Bosch 0 231 180 008.

     

    First thing I saw was that the pin holding the angle gear on to the shaft was completely loose, and was hanging half out of its hole. The angle gear appears worn in places.

     

    9481761354_1f0db3f082_c.jpg

     

    The metal washer is slightly damaged, as is the base of the dizzy shaft, shown here (looks like someone whacked the pin inaccurately with a hammer):

     

    9478884267_561fffa20e_c.jpg

     

    The Pertronix is a model 28AA-V4 ... the PO routed the wires so they rubbed on the shaft, and used a mess of hot glue to secure them and seal the hole they passed through in the distributor body. I believe the Pertronix is working fine, despite that.

     

    9481725084_e789608695_c.jpg

     

    9481632290_dc9e99c9c0_b.jpg

     

    Here's a shot showing the inside of the distributor housing:

     

    9481622964_1db0649b0b_c.jpg

     

    The split ring (on the right in this photo) under the felt pad holding the rotor housing (middle of the photo) to the shaft was detached and just sitting on the top of the shaft, so the housing could be pulled straight off.

     

    9481480800_afe314bb4f_c.jpg

     

    What is the verdict: is this worth cleaning up and reusing, or is it past it?

     

    Thanks!

     

     

  16. Hang in there.

     

    I am not familiar with the Weber Troubleshooting Guide, but I can only guess that the purpose of lead swapping is to possibly determine whether each cylinder is firing or a hit or miss attempt to establish whether the distributor leads are in the correct firing order.  It seems as though you established that you started with the leads being in the correct order and you should return to that setup.

    The fact that the engine runs with two wires crossed is not that surprising.  You have two other cylinders that are working to turn the engine.  You may be getting partial combustion in the crossed wire cylinders.  Bet you would not be happy putting the engine under a load and driving it on two or three cylinders.  As I said before, it does not take much to alter a decent running engine.  

    Reverse points distributor?  Guess it depends upon who’s asking and the style of distributor they are using.  Timing is not affected.  There were many different variants to the Bosch 4cylinder points-equipped distributor, and among other things this involves the design and mounting of the ignition points.  To the best of my knowledge, points came in two different hand shakes (below).  However configured, they peform the same basic function being activated by the distributor cam.  Timing is set the same, regardless of point style.  (see below)

     

    K9_1.jpg

     

    What to do next?  Reinstall the plug wires in the proper sequence, so that the engine is running moderately well.  You can always go back to basics and recheck your settings as you would with any major tune up.  For a rough idle with a properly jetted carb, I might be inclined to use a larger valve lash setting of .008".  But my hunch remains that your idle will improve by increasing the primary idle jet size to 55 or 60. (In the good old days you could drill the jet larger, but that was also when replacement jets were plentiful and very inexpensive.)   Each engine is a little different, and that includes different states of tune and condition, so there is plenty of room to maneuver.  But as a baseline, Creighton’s jetting recommendations are a good place to start.

    Primary barrel: idle jet 60  main jet 140 air correction jet 145

    Secondary barrel: idle jet 55; main jet 170; air correction jet 175

    Float level: 40mm

     

    Thanks, Roland. I'm going to go with your hunch and order a couple of idle jets: 60 and 55.

     

    While waiting for those, I set the timing with a timing light on #1 plug wire - I got the ball lined up at 1400 rpm with the dizzy vacuum plugged, but it was dancing around.

     

    At that point I decided to pull the dizzy and take a look - I'll post about what I found in a separate thread  :o

    Here is something to try. Tighten the screw holding your condenser to the body of the distributor. I had a problem with a general misfire that drove me crazy that sounded for all intents and purposes like your video and I spotted it by poking my screwdriver into the space between the condenser and distributor body and low and behold, I sees a spark! Engine immediately stops misfiring while I'm holding my screwdriver jammed in there. Now I had to turn the distributor around to access the screw, but once tightened, the misfire went away and the was engine running smooth again. Like Mr Pugh says: 90% of your carb problems are in the ignition

    Mike

    Thanks, Mike.

     

    I'm running a Pertronix, so no condenser. But your suggestion made me think, and so I pulled the dizzy to take a closer look - subject of another thread.

  17. More advice, but of questionable usefulness.

    To recap, your only concern was idle and you did not mention part or full throttle operation.  Sounds as though you have most of the bases covered.  As you know, it takes only a tiny turn of the mixture screw or a leaky spark plug lead to significantly impact engine performance.

    When you mentioned static timing I took that to mean not using a timing light.  Sure, you can use a timing light if the engine is "under the weather."  Your results may be problematic, because an ignition issue could cause misfiring and erratic timing marks.  That said, I doubt your problem is specifically ignition timing related and as things progress it's easy enough to recheck and adjust.  It is good that your vacuum advance holds a vacuum, but that is separate from a worn or poorly adjusted vacuum advance linkage, or a loose/worn points plate or any defects or wear in the centrifugal advance mechanism.  While a worn or maladjusted distributor can affect idle, I do not think that is your problem.

    Conventional wisdom also agrees with BP6ES is a good start.  Plugs gapped correctly?  (Hint: a wider gap places additional stress on the system, but wider gaps also tend to better ignite lean mixtures.)

    Since the only thing you made any major mods to is the carburetor, I would look there.  You did not disclose how far you went in your carb rebuild.  Interpretations vary, but some think removal or replacement of the top or bottom gasket constitutes a rebuild.  Others contend the complete carb needs disassembly, including the throttle plates and shafts, and all jets and emulsion tubes.  My guess is that you used most of the parts in the kit, and this typically includes gaskets, needle and seat, and a power valve (at bottom of bowl.)  Webers are pretty forgiving, but if you left some debris in the circuitry or a jet was inadvertently switched, or the float settings were dramatically changed, any or all of these things can affect the carb's calibrations and engine performance.  Likewise, if the kit contains a slightly different gasket than the one with which you started, or a gasket is designed to fit one way, but it is flipped, this can also cause difficult-to-diagnose running issues.

    You mention using a vacuum gauge.  If the engine is hunting I would expect to see an unsteady vacuum reading.  If the vacuum is high despite the hunting, I wonder if your throttle plates are open beyond where they should be at idle.  This could cause the engine to bypass part of the idle circuit.  Also, while I haven't consulted the recommended instructions for many years, the rule of thumb was that the mixture screw should be set to approximately 1.5 turns out.  A significant deviation generally indicates the wrong idle jet size.  A mixture screw setting more than 2.5  turns out generally indicates an idle jet that is too small - causing a lean condition.  Conversely, when the best idle is achived with the mixture screw at less than 1.5 turns out, the jet is probably large, causing a rich condition.  Is your mixture screw turned out more than 1.5 turns?

    Still another possibility is that you have everything squared away, exactly as before - but you only think the engine idled smoother than it does now.  I was recently at a gathering of exotic car buffs where a new owner was describing how great his car ran.  It did run great until he had a chance to compare it with a simiilar car.  He was shocked to discover how much smoother another engine ran.  My point is that you may have always had a fair running car that still had a decent but less than perfect idle.  A hunting and rough idle can be caused by many things mentioned, but it is primarily symptomatic of a lean mixture.  The proof might be increasing the size of the primary idle jet which affects both idle and part throttle running.

    Most, but not all Weber 32/36 DGV carbs are equipped with idle solenoids. Since I don’t see either the solenoid or a wire protruding from the side of the carb in your picture, I am assuming you do not have one.   If you are not using an idle solenoid, this would suggest the same style idle jet is employed in both the primary and secondary side of the carb.  Most often the 32/36 DGV's are equipped with the same size idle jets for both barrels.  However unlikely, it is possible to have different sized jets and maybe, you mixed the two.  If you are using an idle solenoid, you didn't/couldn’t confuse the two idle jets.

    Best of luck.

     

    Thanks for sticking with me on this!

     

    Update: something surprising that makes me think I have something wrong in the ignition after all. I swapped #3 and #2 leads at the distributor cap, as an experiment (suggested in the Weber troubleshooting guide) - and the engine ran (much to my surprise) but idling somewhat more roughly than before and at lower revs (about 1000rpm). 

     

    How can this be?!

     

    Somebody told me I have a "reverse points dizzy", I'm not sure what that means, but does it affect how static timing is performed?

     

    What to do next? I'm losing all confidence  :(

     

    (BTW I did look at the jet sizes: the idle jets are both 50. The primary air corrector jet is 170, and the secondary is 175.)

  18. Following MIke's hypothesis, what do your plugs look like and what heat range are they?  Static timing is only helpful as a starting point and does not address potential distributor problems, including the condition and overall function of your advance mechanisms.  As your distributor's advance is or should be dynamic, unless you know all of its variables, it should be tested dynamically.  (But, as nice as it would be to have a distributor machine or even a timing light with advanced features, neither is absolutely necessary.)  

     

    This leaves 10%.

     

    Decent vacuum readings suggest no compression issues.  This being the case, your idle mixture is probably too lean.  If plug reading is not revealing enough for you, exhaust sniffing is always a good idea.  But as with dynamic timing, exhaust analysis is helpful but not absolutely necessary.

     

    There are a lot of variables when it comes to  - carburettors.  Refurb sounds like pure puffery.  It tells me nothing, other than the fuel bowl may contain less contaminants than it once did and the exterior is probably clean.  Even if the refurb was perfectly performed by Edoardo Weber, unless the carb is jetted properly for your application, you still may have operational complaints.

     

    What jets are you running?  If you want to try a shortcut, What is your idle jet number for the primary side of the carburettor?  Sight unseen I would consider going one or two steps larger.  This may resolve your idle issue without addressing other unknown mixture issues.

     

    hth

    A lot of useful advice here: thanks.

     

    1) Vacuum advance mechanism on the dizzy is working in that I can suck on it and the plate moves  :)

    2) The plugs are brand new NGK BP6ES ... I haven't extracted them since gapping and installing them, but will take a look.

    3) For the carb, I bought a refurb kit from Weber, completely disassembled the carb, cleaned, and replaced all the parts from the refurb kit.

    4) I don't know what jets are in there, and haven't changed them. Since the engine used to run alright before, then unsuitable jets seems a long shot.

     

    Having said all that, I do suspect I've screwed something up carb-wise.

     

    Can I still dynamic time the ignition (with my adjustable advance timing light) with the idle hunting around as it is? I haven't tried, because just experimentally slowly twisting the dizzy doesn't improve the idle at all.

     

    Thanks again for the advice. 

  19. At least in your video, the valves sound kinda noisy...given that (slightly) noisy valves don't burn, what did you adjust 'em to?  The standard is .006-008.  I use a "go/no-go" routine--I use a .007 gauge to set the clearance, then try an .008 feeler; if it won't pass through the gap, I have it right.  If it does, I adjust it again. 

     

    But as my late and much-missed father-in-law used to say, "Mike, 90% of your carburetor problems are in the ignition"  so make sure the whole ignition system is up to snuff before delving into the fuel system.

     

    cheers

    mike

    Thanks, Mike - as said in my post, the clearances were set to .007. Maybe I should re-check them.

     

    I'd like to eliminate the ignition system, which is why I did all the replacements mentioned (plugs, coil, rotor etc.) (But I haven't replaced the coil.)

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