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jjbunn

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Everything posted by jjbunn

  1. SOLD! A pair of seats from a '73 BMW 2002. The upholstery is completely shot, but the seats are basically sound and are complete with headrests etc.. I'll add photos if there is any interest. Pick up only in Pasadena, CA - these are too bulky to ship :-)
  2. Cool - I ordered a bottle - thanks!
  3. Very useful article Any tips on rejuvenating very old/tired/oxidised paint? The Malaga paint on my O2 is dull and looks dusty/dry. But if I wet it with water, it looks fantastic! I've tried all sorts of compounds and polishes, but nothing works - typically it looks good for a day then fades back to its original state.
  4. No, I haven't changed the jets - I just cleaned everything on the carb and replaced it all. The carb is a Weber 38 DGES (I think that's the model number). I haven't tried dynamic tuning, as it seemed pointless when the static timing is so bad? If I'm running lean, then wouldn't that be cured by screwing in the idle screw some? I did try that, but then the engine wanted to stall. I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak, but I see between 20 and 30 at idle on my vac gauge, which seems alright. Thanks for the reply!
  5. Getting the hang of the new site - looks snazzy! I'm trying to fix a poor running condition, and would like some suggestions, please. Engine starts from cold, goes up to ~2500 rpm, oil pressure is 60psi, stays around those revs until the temperatures rise, the water choke opens up the top butterflies, and then the revs fall to around 1000rpm but then go up and down every few seconds between 1000 and 2500. There's also some missing: the engine is shuddering a little in its mounts. Oil pressure is around 45psi at this point. Water temperature in the bottom third of the gauge. Recent changes I've made: 1) new plugs gapped to owner's manual specs 2) valve clearances all set to 0.007 (cold engine) 3) static timing set using TDC mark on camchain sprocket with distributor rotor pointing to #1 plug 4) new valve cover gasket 5) new 20w50 engine oil and filter 6) removed and cleaned carb, replaced with idle screw bottomed out then backed out 1.5 turns 7) removed and cleaned mechanical fuel pump 8) replaced fuel filter between pump and carb Once the engine is warm, I've tried loosening the distributor and slowly rotating it this way and that to try to improve the running, but no luck. I feel like I may have missed something, or made some stupid error, so even the most basic advice is welcome
  6. Yes, good suggestions, thanks - I'll take B+ off the ignition wire. I think 150psi is the recommended range, from reading around it can get up there in some situations.
  7. Brilliant! I'll take a look for that. Thanks, Bill.
  8. I am adding three VDO gauges in my centre console: Oil Pressure 0-150psi, Volts and Vacuum. Others have certainly done this before, but I need some specific advice which I can't find via Search: 1) For the Voltmeter, it should measure battery voltage (not regulated voltage) - where is the best place to T into a B+ supply behind the dash - the light switch, or the cigar lighter? 2) For the Oil Pressure, it will need regulated voltage - where is the best place to get that? I think regulated voltage is on a Blue wire entering the console, and also on the remote equipment socket in the engine compartment - neither very convenient. 3) The gauge lamps should come on with the other instrument lights and dim with the dimmer control on the main cluster - where is a convenient connection for the gauge lights? Thanks!
  9. Thanks - great advice from all. In the end I went in and set them all to 007 (Bond, James Bond) as they turned out to be easier to adjust than I expected.
  10. Tightening the belt did the trick - I can now rotate the engine easily. I'm starting with #1 and find the intake is a little too big at 0.009. Just how critical is the setting - I don't want to futz with it if 0.009 is good enough?
  11. Thanks, Esty and everyone. Yes, plugs are out. Car is on jack stands. Good tip about tensioning the belt. No way can I get a wrench on the pulley nut, I don't think. I've done this before on LBCs, so am not a complete noob, but always learning :-)
  12. OK! Right now I have regular washers under them, so will get some wavy ones.
  13. I put 2 and 2 together and made 5 - I assumed the smoke I was seeing was from the exhaust manifold I'd just refitted, whereas it was in fact from oil burning. The smoke looked like it was appearing from the manifold.
  14. I'm wanting to set the valve clearances, but am having a bit of trouble setting TDC. Here is a photo of the camshaft with what I believe is the TDC notch showing: (nearby the notch is another mark: "2", not visible in the photo). What do I align the notch to ? Also, how does one easily turn the engine manually? People talk about putting a spanner on the crankshaft pulley, but I can barely see in there, let alone get a spanner in - the fan is in the way. I can get some rotation by moving the fan itself, but part of the way round it slips. Putting the car in 4th and moving a rear wheel works, but it's too far from the engine compartment :-) Thanks!
  15. This turned out to be something different: it was the valve cover that wasn't tightened down enough, so oil was seeping through it and burning off on the exhaust headers. I'd replaced the valve cover gasket, and been overly cautious about tightening the acorn nuts.
  16. Congratulations! My edition just arrived, so I will take a look with more than usual interest :-)
  17. Thanks for all the advice. I'll try loosening the nuts are re-torquing to 22ftlbs.
  18. Yes. Ha! I love a simple easy answer - thanks very much :-)
  19. A question for wiring experts: Is the wiring on a gauge cluster plug in a '73 compatible with a cluster from a later car? In other words, if I replaced the cluster in my '73 with a cluster from a '75, using the same underdash plug, would the warning lights and gauges work as intended? I've got a headache from looking at the circuit diagrams for the round plug connections in the Haynes manual and various other places.
  20. I had a leak from one of the studs on my exhaust manifold, so bought a set of new studs, lock nuts and gaskets, and fitted them (with red Loctite on the studs). At first I didn't tighten the locknuts too much, but there seemed to be exhaust gas leaking from all four ports. I tightened them down pretty well, but no real change. The manifold appears to fit very snugly, so I'm baffled. Now I'm wondering about the gaskets: should I have used some sort of sealant on the gaskets? The other possibility is that in the meantime my head gasket has sprung a leak, but I prefer not to contemplate that :-) I'd welcome any advice, thanks!
  21. Not a question of whether it works or not, the wrap around can cause premature failure of the unit. Pertronix offers three different units for the distributors used for the 02. For straight points, reverse points, and, mechanical advance distributors. Supposedly these have a base plate which compensates the dwell angle. 1847v 1843 2847 Ah, OK - I understand now - thanks for clarifying that. So in fact the problem with the wires rubbing is simply because the PO fitted the wrong configuration unit.
  22. That's puzzling. The car has run just fine with the Pertronix unit shown. So, it may be wrong, but it works :-)
  23. I'm chasing an ignition problem. The PO had fitted a Pertronix system. Inside the distributor I found that the red/black wires running to the sensor were rubbing against the black sleeve fitted on the rotor, and the friction had actually worn away most of the insulation on one of the wires! If I'd not caught this soon, the wire itself would have been worn away. After moving both wires away from the rotor, the inside now looks like this: I'm going to prevent the wires being pulled out in the future by attaching a small cable tie around them, just inside the entrance hole.
  24. Thanks, chaps! Yes, it has remnants of black paint on the cap. I have numerous bits of disconnected emissions stuff on this car, as well as disconnected seat belt warning wiring etc.. The vacuum advance is connected directly to the carb/intake, but maybe at one point it was connected via this valve.
  25. This is mounted on the bulkhead in the engine compartment on my '73 2002: It has a red/white and a brown wire going to it. There are two tubes, that are not connected, labelled S and U. At the top is small detachable cap, under which is a mesh filter and an air hole. It is made by Pierburg. I'm assuming this is smog-related, but a search has drawn a blank. Thanks!
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