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jjbunn

Solex
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Everything posted by jjbunn

  1. Thanks, Hans. I'm still not quite sure about what the wire pair was attached to - not the distributor, but perhaps a capacitor/condensor? What I will try is attaching the single black wire (with the yellow sheath) to the -ve side of the coil. I should really get my multimeter out and check that wire for voltage before doing so - it shouldn't be live if it's the signal wire from the tach.
  2. I'm trying to diagnose why my tach doesn't move (I know it functions, because I bench tested it), and I think I've discovered why. In the photo below there are some wires cable-tied together (at the right hand side of the picture) - a pair of black wires ending in a spade connector, and a single black wire, with a yellow-ish sheath, ending in a spade connector. From my reading of the circuit diagram, the sheathed wire should be the wire from the tach. My car has a non-points electronic system inside the distributor (perhaps Pertronix, I don't know). Where should I connect these wires/spades? I did a search, but am not sure what I found exactly applies to my situation. Thanks!
  3. Yes: in my recent experience the URO aftermarket seal simply doesn't fit properly. The OEM seal (I got mine from Blunt) fits like a glove: nice and tight against the bodywork.
  4. Yeh, that's what I thought, but I'm having a hard time getting the seat to push far enough back. Also, those tabs are bent the wrong way to "hook" under the lip on the vertical panel, which is confusing.
  5. I did a quick cheap and cheerful re-upholstery of the rear seats (new batting and plain pleather covers) and am now trying to re-fit them in the car. The rear back rest is in position, and I've tightened down the two screws in the two tabs against the bulkhead. The trouble is that the seat base is a tight fit, and I don't seem to be able to get it all the way under. There are two tabs/brackets under the bench seat, one of which is visible in the photo below: is this tab supposed to go behind the vertical panel, or in front of it? Any tips on how to get the seat into the correct position would be welcome! Here are the seats: I'm not delighted with the rumples in the back rest, but for a few hours of work and $50 worth of materials, I'm not complaining :-)
  6. Thanks to all for the advice. Mike, did you use the copper washers on your installation, on the banjo bolt?
  7. I am adding a VDO 150psi oil pressure gauge, and I have the dual sender (which has an M10x1 tapered thread) and the adapter for this sender, both from Bavarian Auto. The adapter has an M12x1.5 banjo bolt for attaching to the engine and a female M10x1 socket for attaching the sender: it allows the sender to be positioned away from the bulkhead. By hand, I can screw the sender about 1/4 of the way into the hole on the adapter. I've no experience with tapered threads, and am nervous about the connection - should I be able to screw it in further than that by hand? What is the risk of stripping the threads when I get a wrench on it? How tight should it be? Thanks!
  8. My understanding is that the switch in your photo detects when the gearbox is in neutral, as part of the safety mechanism circuit.
  9. Stephen - that looks great! I think I'll do the same, if I can find some chrome plated carriage bolts.
  10. Oh, rats! Perhaps I'll just go overriderless.
  11. Thanks, Stu. I think I'll use them after removing the rubber trim.
  12. Here is a photo of one of the extra rear bumper overriders the PO gave me with my '73 O2 (on the left), alongside the trashed original (on the right): The original has a cut out for the rubber strip that goes around the bumper, whereas the other doesn't. Is this even for a 2002? It looks like it will fit only if I remove the rubber strip (which is horribly beaten up anyway).
  13. A knob with the four speed shift pattern embossed/engraved on the top would be great - then I wouldn't need to apply one of the memory-jogger decals to my newly recovered dash :-) Is that also a possibility?
  14. Thanks for these photos: much appreciated, and they make everything clearer. Looks like my switch is long gone, so I'll do as you suggest, and tie the wires up away from the exhaust.
  15. Yeh, that's a piece I'm familiar with, and is now reinstalled :-) It was while replacing it that I noticed the other parts. Here's a better photo showing the wires: I'm hunting for the wires on the schematic, but I'm never sure which of the Haynes versions is correct for my '73 - none of them quite match reality!
  16. I am refitting the exhaust header and downpipe on my O2. There are a few things I'm unfamiliar with and would appreciate help with identifying. Here's a photo of the area: The green circle shows a pair of wires (I think black and brown/black) that have bare ends and are dangling, disconnected. What are these for and where do they attach? What is the switch circled in yellow - reverse light? And what is the blue item circled in red? Thanks!
  17. These gaskets have one side metal and one side gasket material. Which side goes against the exhaust manifold? Thanks!
  18. Hi Ray, Thanks - I removed the heat shield to get a clearer look and photo. I've now removed the manifold (one stud was missing!) and have ordered new gaskets and studs from Bav Auto. The nuts on the studs were on loosely, just tighter than finger-tight. From reading around this is perhaps normal? Julian
  19. I checked the mixture screw: it was backed all the way out! I've now removed the carb completely, as I think it needs cleaning. There does also appear to be a leak around the exhaust manifold studs. Here is a photo: I guess I need to replace the gasket, or is this more serious? Julian
  20. It's true that in the time since I've had the car, I found various leaks on the carb - there was one port in the throttle body that was essentially open to the air. Perhaps by sealing those, the mixture is now far too rich. I'll try closing up the mixture screw - great idea - and see if that improves the problem.
  21. It's a mixture of about 1 gallon very old (> 6 months) gas and 1.5 gallons of very new gas. I did put some Stabil in the tank a while back ... I don't have a manual choke on the car - it's a water choke. Julian
  22. Ok I will definitely check the manifold studs - thanks. I just changed the oil and filter, so am good there.
  23. It's definitely gray smoke, not blue. I thought it was oil burning, but perhaps I just have too rich a mixture! I'm not sure how to proceed with a diagnosis. The car is not driveable - it's on jackstands - so a road test is not viable.
  24. Thanks - you're suggesting it's the valve guide seals? How can I confirm that as the cause of the smoking?
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