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jjbunn

Solex
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Everything posted by jjbunn

  1. SOLD! A pair of seats from a '73 BMW 2002. The upholstery is completely shot, but the seats are basically sound and are complete with headrests etc.. I'll add photos if there is any interest. Pick up only in Pasadena, CA - these are too bulky to ship :-)
  2. It's exempt from smog in CA, but think of the children! The car is on Ebay - not sure if I'm allowed to post the link here, but it's not hard to find. Julian
  3. It is a Weber :-) I do seem to have all the jets that are in the Weber diagrams I've seen.
  4. The thing smokes so much I'm reluctant to take it on the public roads: it's a bit of a Catch-22! I'm not sure anymore that it's a carb problem in any case - everything on the carb seems to check out. (The power valve is working correctly.) On the other hand, six months ago, before I started messing with the carb in an attempt to fix a rough idle, there was no smoke/rich running issue. Thanks for all the suggestions - much appreciated. If anyone reading this lives nearby and would be kind enough to take a look, please contact me.
  5. I'm in East Pasadena, and would be delighted if anyone nearby has the time to take a look - I offer a 6-pack or bottle of vino :-) There's a shop up on Colorado Blvd. that often has older BMW, Mercs and Porsche, so I may wander in there to see if the mechanic will take a look.
  6. I've about had it trying to fix my rich running / smoking exhaust problem. I can't see what is wrong - everything looks fine, but it's just so frustrating to keep firing the thing up after the latest fiddling around, only to have it warm up and start belching smoke again. I've been weeks off and on messing around with the Weber, the timing, plugs, wires, dizzy, ignition etc.. It started out fun, but now it's gone sour Any bright ideas? Anyone with a known good Solex they want to dispose of? Or should I just put the car up on Ebay and call it a wash?
  7. I wasn't sucking hard enough! When I suck really hard, the piston moves down, and moves back up when I stop sucking. Here's another thing I don't understand: if I keep screwing the mixture screw in (clockwise), while keeping the revs up a little to keep the engine from stalling (it will stall otherwise), there is no noticeable reduction in the smoke coming out of the exhaust. I would have expected that leaning the mixture would have stopped the smoke, no? I have something really screwed up somewhere, I'm sure!
  8. I'm sucking on the hole circled in yellow (attached image), but the piston/spring isn't moving. The air passage itself is clear as I blew it out with compressed air both ways after removing the three screws and the piston. What do you think?
  9. I'll do these tests and report back. While I have the cover off I'll try bending the tab to decrease the level (i.e. increase from 41mm at shut), right? Great suggestions - thanks!
  10. I've checked the brass floats carefully - they are undamaged and do not take on gas. They are both sitting at the same height. With the cover vertical, the floats hanging down, and the tab just touching the ball bearing, I measured 41mm from the cover gasket to the base of both floats. With the cover horizontal, and the floats hanging down, the measurement was 51mm. So, as per specs. The valve itself is new - the tip is clean and unscored. (It has some reddish paint on it, which is unmarked.) If I look in the float bowl after the engine has been running a while, and after I remove the cover, I see maybe 15mm depth of gas. This doesn't look like a too-full amount (?). I feel I'm missing something significant. My main idle jet is a 50 - perhaps this is too big?
  11. Thanks for the encouragement - that's two votes for throwing it in the bin, and one against I have read most of c.d.iesel's posts on this topic, but my problem remains. I don't think my problem is main jets, but I may be wrong. I did try the 60/55 idle combination already.
  12. Background: this is a '73 with the original engine, pertronix points and a Weber 32/36 with water choke. The car hasn't been driven regularly for some years, but everything "works" - I've been mainly doing r&r on things like new plugs, wires, oil, filters, seals, setting timing, etc.. Now I am ready to go out on the road, but have a couple of issues before I do so. The main issue is I seem to be running very rich - there is grey smoke out of the exhaust once the engine starts to warm up, and the plugs are sooty. I'd like to put some miles on the engine before getting too hung up on tuning etc., but the state it's in is producing too much smoke to drive without a gas mask My feeling is that the carb is set up incorrectly. Here's what I have: 1) brass floats: level set to 41mm when valve closed, measured from gasket to extremity of both floats, level set to 51mm when floats at bottom of travel 2) idle jets: 50 on primary, 55 on secondary (I also tried 60 on primary, but that was predictably worse) 3) main jets: 125 on primary, 127 on secondary 4) correction jets: 175 and 170 5) emulsion: both F50 6) discharge: 50 I start with the idle mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed - the engine starts (but without enthusiasm). Turning clockwise (leaner) the engine starts to stumble. Engine seems happiest when the screw is about 2 turns out - which is apparently OK according to what I've read. Vacuum on the manifold is 20mmHg at idle. I'm pretty confident I have no vacuum leaks. Air filter is removed for these tests. Observation: before the engine warms up, if I open the choke butterflys by hand, revs go up. This suggest that I'm running too rich, doesn't it? After the engine warms up, butterflys open completely, as they should. By the time the engine is warmed up, the guff from the exhaust is choking! Any comments/suggestions? Any local experts in Pasadena who'd be prepared to take a look? I feel like I may be missing something basic related or unrelated to the carb!
  13. Hi Roland and Daron, I realised based on the feedback that I really need to drive the car a bit before pursuing this any further - it may just be that it needs a good run To that end I had to replace a couple of the tires, which I did this week. I also got hold of 55 and 60 idle jets from Ken and installed them, and re-timed the engine after my repair of the distributor. Now I'm all set for a spin round the block, and perhaps further, but some dude has parked in front of my gate, and I can't get the car out! I'll report back when I have more news
  14. Cool - I ordered a bottle - thanks!
  15. Very useful article Any tips on rejuvenating very old/tired/oxidised paint? The Malaga paint on my O2 is dull and looks dusty/dry. But if I wet it with water, it looks fantastic! I've tried all sorts of compounds and polishes, but nothing works - typically it looks good for a day then fades back to its original state.
  16. I'll get a donor, as you suggest. I did fix up this one today - the spring had come off the advance mechanism (should there be 2 springs - looked like it) but it was so crudded up it probably wasn't moving anyway. So I cleaned and lubed everything, and put it together. Should a vacuum advance hold vacuum, or just respond to vacuum? The one on this dizzy responds, but leaks it away in a second or so.
  17. Hi Roland, I did keep the old plugs: Bosch W7DC. They are very cruddy - lots of oily soot on each. So that doesn't bode well. The history of the car is a complete mystery to me - I bought it on Ebay from a guy in Lancaster, CA, who delivered it on a flatbed, although it did run, it wasn't highway safe. There was a Title, a few receipts, that's it. It hasn't been off jackstands since I drove it onto my property at that time. The car was in very shabby condition indeed, so I have no idea of the engine mileage, or oil consumption. Based on the wear on the original driver's footwell carpet, my guess is that the car has done a high mileage. It's fine: I bought the car as a project/challenge, and I didn't pay much I added an oil pressure gauge, so I know that the oil pressure is good - around 30 after warm up. I never checked dynamic timing before the carb rebuild. When I check the timing again tomorrow, I will see if the timing mark stabilizes at higher revs. The engine does rev very freely, and sounds great when doing so Thanks as always for your encouraging advice.
  18. Yes, the wires had rubbed, as shown by the photo in that post, and it's true that it works The dizzy is now sorted, at least temporarily until I get a replacement from Ken. At that point I may replace the Pertronix. I'm afraid I don't always understand some of the jargon, like "reverse points". E.g. I'm not clear what you mean by "cam or no cam"? The vacuum rhythm: do you mean the frequency at which the idle speed drops and rebounds? I'd say it's about every couple of seconds. Yes, the brake booster valve is in the correct way (and there is a good vacuum on the brake booster). I need to: a) check the float height in the carb check each HT lead in turn c) take a longer, steadier video d) take another look at the timing since the distributor was repaired. Do you think re-gapping the plugs to, say, 0.035 might improve matters - I saw reports of improved running with Pertronix if the plugs were gapped wider?
  19. I cleaned up and fixed the distributor issues, replaced it in the same orientation, and ran the engine again. No noticeable change. I was hoping that I would at least get some improvement! I ran the engine for about 20 minutes, revving it up and down, and then pulled the plugs. These are new plugs, and they all look like this: I'm not any good at reading plugs, but doesn't this look like too rich a mixture? Somewhat sooty and wet.
  20. Today I pulled the distributor out of the car, as part of a rough idle investigation. I'd welcome comments on whether this dizzy should be consigned to the trash, or if it can be cleaned up and pressed back into service. This is a Bosch 0 231 180 008. First thing I saw was that the pin holding the angle gear on to the shaft was completely loose, and was hanging half out of its hole. The angle gear appears worn in places. The metal washer is slightly damaged, as is the base of the dizzy shaft, shown here (looks like someone whacked the pin inaccurately with a hammer): The Pertronix is a model 28AA-V4 ... the PO routed the wires so they rubbed on the shaft, and used a mess of hot glue to secure them and seal the hole they passed through in the distributor body. I believe the Pertronix is working fine, despite that. Here's a shot showing the inside of the distributor housing: The split ring (on the right in this photo) under the felt pad holding the rotor housing (middle of the photo) to the shaft was detached and just sitting on the top of the shaft, so the housing could be pulled straight off. What is the verdict: is this worth cleaning up and reusing, or is it past it? Thanks!
  21. Thanks, Roland. I'm going to go with your hunch and order a couple of idle jets: 60 and 55. While waiting for those, I set the timing with a timing light on #1 plug wire - I got the ball lined up at 1400 rpm with the dizzy vacuum plugged, but it was dancing around. At that point I decided to pull the dizzy and take a look - I'll post about what I found in a separate thread Thanks, Mike. I'm running a Pertronix, so no condenser. But your suggestion made me think, and so I pulled the dizzy to take a closer look - subject of another thread.
  22. Thanks for sticking with me on this! Update: something surprising that makes me think I have something wrong in the ignition after all. I swapped #3 and #2 leads at the distributor cap, as an experiment (suggested in the Weber troubleshooting guide) - and the engine ran (much to my surprise) but idling somewhat more roughly than before and at lower revs (about 1000rpm). How can this be?! Somebody told me I have a "reverse points dizzy", I'm not sure what that means, but does it affect how static timing is performed? What to do next? I'm losing all confidence (BTW I did look at the jet sizes: the idle jets are both 50. The primary air corrector jet is 170, and the secondary is 175.)
  23. A lot of useful advice here: thanks. 1) Vacuum advance mechanism on the dizzy is working in that I can suck on it and the plate moves 2) The plugs are brand new NGK BP6ES ... I haven't extracted them since gapping and installing them, but will take a look. 3) For the carb, I bought a refurb kit from Weber, completely disassembled the carb, cleaned, and replaced all the parts from the refurb kit. 4) I don't know what jets are in there, and haven't changed them. Since the engine used to run alright before, then unsuitable jets seems a long shot. Having said all that, I do suspect I've screwed something up carb-wise. Can I still dynamic time the ignition (with my adjustable advance timing light) with the idle hunting around as it is? I haven't tried, because just experimentally slowly twisting the dizzy doesn't improve the idle at all. Thanks again for the advice.
  24. Thanks, Mike - as said in my post, the clearances were set to .007. Maybe I should re-check them. I'd like to eliminate the ignition system, which is why I did all the replacements mentioned (plugs, coil, rotor etc.) (But I haven't replaced the coil.)
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