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72koop

Solex
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  1. Pending sale to forum member. Thanks guys!
  2. My car, long time owner. Here's the chance to add to your stable. Posted on the E9 coupe website in the for sale section w/ contact info.
  3. Might give restoration design a call. I recall seeing them but not listed. But, 356 Porsche toe board mount looks mighty close with some trimming. $12.IIRC If you're handy- 2 carb ball studs, nuts,( tacked) and some sheetmetal. $20 or so.
  4. 8mm outside. Yes, steel. Rubber was used on the pump and halfway or so according to the diagram.
  5. Balancing- pick the highest flowing barrel. You must twist( tweak) the shaft by holding both ends with the plates slightly open to not jam the plates. ( Old Porsche trick) But before you do all that, put a piece of cardboard to block the fan's turbulence before reading airflow otherwise it's likely to be rich. Close the front carb's throttle a bit and open the rear a bit. Plumb your fuel gauge so you can pinch off the fuel supply to each carb to check to see if the front carb's inlet needle is holding. Confirm that each holds pressure for say at least two minutes. No guage- pull the fuel line and something should indicate pressure. The seat could be loose. It's possible for the fuel to siphon either way if the inlet needs are leaking. Next is the fuel pump- supposed to be a check valve device to prevent this. In keeping with your no money for tuning- just position the fuel line slightly higher that the fittings- a hump. Not even or below in your picture. Next, adjust your floats, lower the front. Then raise the rear. You've got too much fuel on the front and not enough on the rear. But you've got multiple problems- pick one carb or problem and work it. I suggest fix the lack of fuel problem on the back carb first.
  6. 72koop

    72koop

  7. Check your Fuse box. Don't recall the number of which one. That wire is hot all the time with the key on. If I understand and can translate- the power to the electric choke is not supplying power. The choke appears to be working when jumped from the battery.
  8. It'll buff out. Unfortunately, logic doesn't prevail when it comes to cars and money.
  9. Sell or swap the whole set for what you want. You may come out ahead and get exactly what you need. If they really are a matched set, linkage, and all; my advice is not to break them up. E9.com
  10. mmm.. first make sure you have the right plugs and the parts guy handed you the wrong extended ones. Just because the plug didn't tighten all the way does not mean stripped. There is such a tool at any auto parts store called a spark plug thread chaser or if you're parsimonious- file or grind several grooves into an old spark plug. Go slow, back and forth.
  11. The blue goes to the warning light on the dash.
  12. Check the battery. 12 v means dead. Should be 12.6 at rest. At 12.5 you're gonna start seeing problems.
  13. 040-.045-.050-.052-.055-.060-.065-.070 You need idle jets. .050 has been used. Buy them in pairs and buy two sizes to tune. It is likely the carb has .060 as that idle is for a 3.0motor , stock out of the box. Now, pls. take the sage advice of the others here. The most important is how may turns out are your idle screws and are they the same ( balanced? ) If one is more out than the other you might have found your problem. If rich they would not be open much, say one turn out. Two turns out is about right.
  14. Dead or drained battery. Min. good battery at rest+ 12.67 or better. Then you need to check charging and possible drain. Fuses- pull one at a time to isolate.


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