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Tombonetoo

Solex
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    Ft. Worth, Texas
  • Interests
    Cycling and Classic Cars

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  1. Here you go, extra credit for photo - the other car is a1960 VW Ragtop Beetle. Still under restoration (but nearing completion). Grandson is my partner on the project. Added this photo to the "what you do to your 02 today" the other day after we washed and waxed our boy toys.
  2. J, Regarding static advance, yes it works the same way as a stock distributor. Given that my programmed curve as approx. 19 deg (see table above) at 1500 RPM, and I want 25 deg BTDC at 1500 RPM when shooting the timing light, you are effectively turning the distributor by 6 deg. I suppose you can bump the whole curve by 6 deg and eliminate the static setting. Concerning switching programs, I wired up a switch which I located on the firewall where I could I could use to toggle between program 1and 2. The 123 instructions are not bad, and you use the same power source as used to power the distributor. Since I did not want to hard wire the distributor to the car, I wired up a multiple-prong plug held by a small box so disconnecting the distributor is a snap. Picked up everything I needed to do this, including the switch, at RadioShack for under $10.
  3. Eurotrash, Here is a snapshot of the program with "idle correct" feature (for lack of better term): I made up a simple Excel program to plot mechanical (RPM based) and vacuum advances in 3D: A true nerd...
  4. We have been running a Tune version of the 123Ignituon distributor for about two years - no issues at all. Enjoyed fine-tuning the mechanical and vacuum curves to suit our driving habits. One program for economy and the other for power (we leave the latter on all the time). We are running a single side-draft DCOE 45 with Lynx manifold. Also a big believer in using manifold vacuum - so we drilled and tapped the manifold for a vacuum pick up fitting and connected it to the distributor. One cool thing you can do with this distributor is to program in addition advance if your idle speed momentarily drops below your desired set RPM - i.e. such as when your AC kicks in, or you turn on auxillary lights. So if your idle speed drops from say a 850 RPM set point by 100 RPM or so, you program the distributor ti give it additional advance of 4+ degrees to pull it back to the set idle speed. It works fine - holds a steady idle. Finally, measurimg/monitoring manifold vacuum was at one time part of the routine for diagnosing engine performance. Some of us ol'skool guys still use it. Thanks for the write-up Eurotrash.
  5. Hello Gaddafi, Would you consider just selling the two black interior door pulls? If so, how much? Tom
  6. Here it the window sticker from our 1976 2002: Dollar weakened against the D-Mark that year. $7,361.75 was a lot of dinero back then.
  7. +1 on sourcing through a Legends distributor. Two years ago I sourced a set of 205/60R13 BF Goodrich Comp TAs M&S tires, DOT approved, but nonetheless they are race tires. So far so good. They were $100 each, delivered.
  8. 1976 2002 Stance Setup: Stock springs Front spacers removed One dot rear spring seats Bilstein HDs at all corners 205/60r13 BF Goodrich Comp TAs Cromodora CD32 Daytona rims IE fixed camber plates front Fenders unrolled and no rubbing at all
  9. Alexkaty, I am also in Texas - Fort Worth area and would happy to walk you through a complete de-smog. I have removed and saved all my emissions stuff (as opposed to throwing it all into my neighbors pool....). Car will run better, it will be lighter and you will have a cleaner looking engine bay. Best
  10. Alexkaty, I believe this pipe is part of California emissions system. I have a1976 49 State version 2002 that does not have the EGR system. Pipe connects to rear of exhaust manifold (reactor type) to exhaust gas filter as part of EGR system. BMW part number 11711260086, item 16 in picture below: BMW dealer or Maximillian should have these forv$60-70.
  11. Thanks Toby. Per Peterschop's note, I would agree that the F7 emulsion tube would be a very good choice as well - that one should kill a transition stumble for sure (you can't argue with a Carl Nelson recommendation).
  12. This web page from the Carburatori Weber site provides some information I found useful in setting up the carb. Read the stuff about the role of the emulsion tubes and how it describes their selection. I also read the Weber Tuning manual when I went to tuning the DCOEs. http://www.webercarburatori.com/?p=handbook&s=2 "For mixture enrichment at low rpm or during slight acceleration use tubes without orifices at top (note that the F50 emulsion tubes have larger orifices at the top portion). For mixture weakening at low rpm or during slight accelerations use tubes with orifices on top. When mixture enrichment for slight accelerations is needed, the fuel reserve in the emulsion well must be increased - this is obtained by fitting a tube having a small outside diameter, orificates located predominately in the lower portion of the tube and larger size air bleed to prevent excessive mixture richness at high rpm." As you will see on the web page under part group 61440, the F66 emulsion tube have three sets of 4 holes of larger diameter, located lower on the tube when compared to the F50 emulsion tubes. I also tried the F80s, but they provided too much fuel at the transition point. Pierce Manifolds also has a wide selection of emulstion tubes.
  13. One way that I found to improve the lean-out in the transition phase was to change from an F50 to F66 emulsion tubes. I experimented with several emulsion tubes on my 38/38 (not a cheap proposition), and the F66 with its lower drilled holes eliminated the transition phase lean out as measured with an WBO2 sensor. Final configuration: Mains 155 (stock 145) Idles 55 (stock 45) Air Correction 165 (stock 185) E-Tubes F66 (stock F50) We are at 600 feet above sea level here in Fort Worth. As you can see I took a different route in dialing this carb. I should note that the 38/38 I am running has a 250 Needle Valve (not a 200 as noted by the ealier poster), 60 Pump Jet (slightly smaller than stock size) and 35 Pump Bleed (slightly larger size). The above combinition is on a relatively stock '76 2002 engine (Tii exhaust, electronic ignition) an gave no stumble, no hesitation and AFR readings of 13-14.5 over 900-5500 RPM in variousmloading conditions. Driveability was as good as the 32/36, but pulled with more conviction and a breathed better at upper end.
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