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SnowDriftin44

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About SnowDriftin44

  • Birthday 03/19/1996

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  1. https://www.facebook.com/groups/590776844359454/permalink/1094726563964477/?sale_post_id=1094726563964477 I'd buy this if I had room. really good deal.
  2. I've never heard of him! I'll give him a call on Monday. Thanks for the tip, I was hoping you'd chime in Preyupy. I still really want to try this someday though.
  3. I've been fighting the urge to do this ever since I started planning my turbo engine. It's getting harder now that I'm close to machining the bottom end. I know a guy who will let me borrow his stuff to do this. I can't get a 50 RA with the machine he's got, but it shouldn't matter. If we could, I'd do all my machine work for free haha. Pros: - Saves me money/trouble renting one from VAC. -Might be better than a traditional torque plate since it's pretty damn close to being an actual head. -Science! Cons: - It might lose too much rigidity to work or just break because studs clamp hard. -I'll for sure ruin a head that might be fixable. The head in question... Crack between valves in combustion chamber for #2. Rough idea what 89mm holes will do. It looks like this could work, especially if I put some old rocker shafts in. I know of some guys who have had success doing this on other engines and I've heard of one guy who did it to an M10. No documentation that I could dig up online though. I'll be the guinea pig unless someone wants to make a small donation to my build and save this 121 for something better. I would ask if anyone in the SF bay area would let me borrow their proper one, but I'm not 100% sure on which auto machinist I'm gonna trust with my cash. So I'm not sure on the timeline for when I'd need it. It might be better to make this happen?
  4. The POR-15 has held up good so far during a road trip to LA that included 2 track days at Laguna and thrashing in the sand at Pismo Beach. Not to mention really cold nights outside, and hundreds of miles in the rain on the freeway. So maybe roughing up with a grinder is enough? Time will tell.
  5. Job done! I'm happy with it overall, but it took many hours that could have been better used in the pursuit of horsepower. I opted to not remake the front portion of the mini frame rail, the mudguards I use will keep the new face from getting sandblasted. As far as info for people doing this job, it wasn't too hard to keep the heat out of the panel to prevent warp. I just took my time and placed beads in opposite places like tightening a head. I used POR 15 by roughing up the surface with really course paper and a grinder, we'll see if it holds up. (Probably should have used their metal ready.) I'd definitely do it yourself, I feel like a body shop wouldn't have the patience to fix this section properly. I repaired the damage where that blue caulk is too, it wasn't rust thankfully. Just a hole that someone made..not sure how/why. Tumor removed. Donor 16 Gauge mock up. Tacked in place. Using copper a strip to back a gap to prevent blow through. Kinda like that, the technique Jack mentioned works great for situations like this. Buttoned up. Pretty much done, I just drilled a hole for that mounting tab and I'll seal it today with RTV or something. Back to engine stuff now.
  6. I think I'm gonna try 16 for the whole shebang, but we'll see. I'll post pics when I'm done. I picked up a Lincoln 125 MIG today for about a third what a shop would charge to do this repair (wrong probably). So F it, at least I finally had a really pressing reason to get a welder.
  7. I think what happens is the face of the support piece gets blasted with crud from the wheel all the time, then if a hole develops....the whole rail just gets full of grime and water like an infected wound. Thanks for making me feel better Steve haha, at least I'm not the only one! I've only seen this issue on one other car in person. Are you using 16 gauge or 14 maybe? Thanks for the advice Simeon. I'm leaning towards a patch as well.
  8. I was adjusting my rear brakes today when I noticed that some rust that I had known was there looked way worse than the last time I looked at it. I don't even know what to call this part of the trunk floor, but it looks like it's there to stiffen the structure for when you really load down the trunk. A mini frame rail for the trunk? Last time I looked at it, maybe a month ago, there was one small pinhole. When I got under today, there was a bigger hole and chunks of what used to be sheet metal were coming off. So the plan was chop out the rotted section of the mini trunk frame rail thing, sand everything, paint, and seal the face with foil tape temporarily to keep the tire from filling it with shit until the day I can do my full teardown. Easy...then this happened.. Let's see what we got...It was full of wet mud because the drain hole was plugged so that's always a good sign.. Oh shit. The POR15 ain't gonna do it this time. Soooo fugly! I am kicking myself for letting this fester, Stupid! Shoulda done this 2 years ago. The other 3 sides of the pan that support the tank look ok. I better buy myself a welder for Christmas! I want to be building my turbo engine, not dealing with this garbage! F#ck... I'm mainly venting, but as usual advice is appreciated. If anyone has a clean trunk floor in the Bay Area, I'll trade you something good for it. This was originally 16 Gauge before it became too rotten to measure right? Maybe I can make a big patch... but then I have to pull the tank out and it'll be down for at least a few days... Damn, It's hard using one of these daily sometimes.
  9. I hope someone uses one in a turbo build! Can you imagine the Megatron engines making a comeback and slaughtering all the modern stuff? I saw a 1500 block on Bay Area Craig'slist a few months back... That plus this Head, Darton sleeves, the PPM stroker kit, and a big Holset twin scroll like what Robert is doing with his 1602... That would be 1000 whp in "street tune/low boost" haha.
  10. Correction, NOS stuff is only cool when it's the part # it's listed as. FUUUUUU...Oh well, the piston was kinda scuffed anyways. The info about the grommet still stands. Guess I better buck up and get a CMC in the mail immediately, this is looking like one of those stupid reality shows where the mechanics barely meet the deadline every time.
  11. I came home to a mountain of parts outside my door and I've got some good info for the group. The NOS Clutch Master Rebuild kit I bought (21521102935) has the unknown grommet! It looks like I'm right too, it appears that it's the same part as the stock Brake Master Cylinder grommets. I compared them side by side. Sealing ring is the same diameter, bore looks identical. The only difference I can see is the bottom skirt is just a hair shorter on the Fag piece that came with the CMC rebuild kit when compared to the ATE piece for the BMC (34311103205). I think the two are interchangeable. NOS stuff is so cool. Bottom is the Fag CMC part, top is the ATE BMC part. As you can see the Fag is shorter but I doubt it matters. I think it's just difference in manufacturer and 30 years difference in when they were produced. Another view showing how close they are. The # molded into the Fag CMC piece is (H0850 2-70) maybe someone who has an account on the Schaeffler-Fag website can double check me the legit way? It's hard to stump Steve, but he has no clue what my Fuel pump is haha.
  12. Thanks for the input everyone, I will factor all of it into my prep work. In the interest of sharing some more useful info for the next guy, the way you identify a standard brake master cylinder is it will have a big "20" cast on the side whereas a tii BMC will have a big "23" cast on it. Can you see why I want new grommets everywhere? Ha. I bought a NOS rebuild kit on fleabay, that's why I want to get the grommet for the clutch master separately. I don't think it's part of the kit. I talked to Bob the parts guy at Weatherford BMW in Oakland, he went through the old catalogs for me and they didn't give a part number for it either. Looks like I'll try to reuse the one I have, I don't think it's as bad as the BMC ones so maybe we'll be good.
  13. Good call, mine is brand new, but it's on the spares list now! Thanks Mike. Thanks for the tip Andrew, I was hoping that #14 included the grommet that is pictured attached to it. That way I could just buy x3 34321102282 and pull one grommet off for use in the clutch master cylinder. That was my question, whether those grommets come on the elbow and if those grommets fit the CMC as well. Sorry, I should have been more clear. Any leads for that fuel pump? Part number/link I missed for the correct CMC grommet?
  14. Current pads are not great, I'm just going to burn them up and have a good spare set on hand. Engine mounts and trans mounts are good as of now. I have to work up something for keeping the battery in place. Just did wheel bearings a few months ago, I'll double check. I'll add Alt bushings to the list. Got a spare, wire, zipties, and all the other jerry rigging equipment. Exhaust hangers will be inspected today. Thanks for the tips t, any thoughts on that pump or those grommets? Edit: I was gonna do the shroud to survive LA traffic.
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