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  1. Homecoming Although my ‘76 spent 1983 to 2011 in the garage at my parents’ home near Reading, Pennsylvania, the car had not been back since we hauled the car to Korman in 2011. Yesterday the ‘76 visited its old haunts, but looking better than even the oldest photo. The first photo was taken in the driveway in early 1977, the second and third photos were taken in the driveway in 1996. Lastly, the fourth through sixth photos were taken yesterday.
  2. Conserv

    WTB: 2002

    I’d recommend you define “rust-free” somewhat broadly, as the very best ‘02’s are generally, if expressed honestly, “low rust”, meaning someone with real knowledge of ‘02’s has carefully examined all visible areas, and correctly repaired those areas identified as having rust. Like most cars of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s, however, these cars are very rust-prone. And they often rust from the inside out, so even the absence of visible rust is not a 100% guarantee of no rust. Don’t forget that fresh paint can conceal serious issues and repairs. Back in the day, in Pennsylvania, where I was born and reared, I saw 5-year-old ‘02’s that could not pass the state inspection because the rust-through was so severe. They were parted out or shipped to states without annual inspections. The old steel has not improved as it reaches 45 and 50 years of age. It seems that most ‘02’s listed on eBay are — surprisingly — “rust-free,” at least that’s what the ads claim! 😋 I would take these claims with a grain of salt. The more your PPI provider knows about ‘02’s, the better! A shop or person who regularly works on ‘02’s will provide a much more meaningful PPI. You’ll also make a better purchase if you’ve fully digested Mike McCartney’s book in ‘02 restoration. It’s not perfect, but it’s a great start. Good luck! Regards, Steve
  3. Just as an FYI: The ‘74 and the ‘68 originally shared the same “winter-summer box” and hose to the air filter housing, but an original ‘74 air filter housing (2-barrel carb) is larger in diameter than an original ‘68 air filter housing (1-barrel carb) and the housings’ mounting brackets are different. Regards, Steve
  4. You’ll have to find that Craig’s List ad marked for removal on August 23, 2011.... 😗😯😋 The BAT ad is, amazingly, still there, maybe that’s sufficient to track down the car: it’s not owned by anyone from this forum... Good luck, Steve
  5. If you’ve got 205/60R13 tires, that ship sailed long ago....😉 The factory tire size on all 2002’s, except the turbo, was 165/80R13. The factory tire size on the turbo was 185/70R13. The factory did not mount any size larger than 165/80R13 (without fender flares) because the engineering and legal departments were concerned about clearances. 😯 Regards, Steve
  6. Swapping front and rear springs is just plain wrong: each spring (front versus rear) has a different length, different wire diameter, different weight capacity, etc... Regards, Steve
  7. +1 I agree. Steve K. will know for certain. Perhaps a PM to Steve K. can confirm this? Regards, Steve
  8. There are lots of used round reservoirs around. If they are in good condition, and complete with cap, they can be relatively expensive: $40 to $100. Many, however, have leaks: the dried out plastic often cracks where the slide mount meets the main body. Yellowing due to age can be somewhat mitigated by soaking in Softscrub with Bleach. Don’t expect miracles. These have never been particularly durable. I carefully applied clear epoxy from inside the reservoir to address a slow leak on my ‘76’s “original” reservoir. Soaked the tank in Softscrub with Bleach for two weeks. I was very proud of it — I’m the car’s original owner. Months later I was browsing through some of my old receipts and noticed a “reservoir” being replaced. I checked the part number and, indeed, it was the reservoir. 😯 Looked some more and found another: by 1978, my ‘76 was on its third reservoir. 🙁 I lost interest and figure I’ve restored, at minimum, the third reservoir! 😋 Regards, Steve
  9. The current thread title is confusing. There were three ‘02 heads for the 2-liter engines: 1. 121 (generally, up to spring 1972) 2. E12 (generally, spring 1972 through end of 2002 production, except for the U.S. 1976 49-state version) 3. E21 (U.S. 1976 49-state version) (The E12 and E21 were named for the two BMW series for which they were, respectively, designed.) An “E121” sounds like the perfect combination of all three heads! (“E121: the universal donor head” 😋) I believe I see “E21” on your first photo, but a better photo of the casting identification and casting date would clarify this, as would correction of the title. Below, a photo of my ‘76’s E21, cast April 1976. GLWS, Steve
  10. 205/60R13 are, indeed, hard to come by. But there are great choices among 185/70R13 tires. A quick search will turn up lots of threads, e.g.: and... Regards, Steve
  11. Actually, they are mostly sub-par by now, which is why I couldn’t imagine going to a system with less swept area. There’s another current thread on the “slow wiper issue”. Regards, Steve
  12. The square reservoirs that BMW sells now as replacement parts were not original to any ‘02’s. I suspect it was “drafted” from a later model. And the current OEM cap for the square reservoir is too large for the original round reservoirs.... Regards, Steve
  13. +1 Thank you, Byron! I was just about to say “Let me understand the situation: you find the original wipers much too effective, so you wish to downgrade to a system that is less effective?” Makes sense to me... 😯😉😋 Best regards, Steve
  14. Great! New and improved: 38% chance of success. 😉 Best regards, Steve
  15. Yes, pull off the turn signal fixture, swap the two wires, and reinstall the fixture (it needs to be screwed into place to ground properly, if I recall). Hey, it’s only a 35% chance of success, but it’s easy!
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