Jump to content

'76mintgrün'02

Solex
  • Posts

    8,705
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    88
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by '76mintgrün'02

  1. You will not get accurate readings from the IR gun unless it is relatively close to all the surfaces you are measuring. The laser pointer is misleading. The IR gun's 'focus' is cone shaped. Try measuring the temperature of the bottom hose from below, so the gun is right up close to it.
  2. Here's the tool I used. I welded a wide blade onto an air-hammer chisel. Plain old mineral spirits works well for removing the remaining residue, (along with a scotch brite pad and a rubber glove).
  3. The advance and retard pods are interchangeable, aside from having the nipple pointing up or down. They may need new mounting holes drilled in the flange(s), but otherwise they fit fine. That being the case, it should be possible to mount the combination advance/retard pod you have on a vacuum retard distributor and connect (manifold) vacuum to the back side of the pod; effectively turning the vac-retard distributor into a vac-advance distributor.
  4. This makes me happy. I'm using the defroster's switch, since that's inoperable anyway. It's handy to just pull that out when setting the timing. Having a vacuum gauge plumbed into the cabin is fun too. Then, you'll know exactly what's happening to the timing when you add/subtract the vacuum advance. Since timing and fueling are interrelated, having an AFR gauge within view is useful too. Here's a post I made showing how I plumbed that switch along with some gauges. (I've removed the gauge under the hood and am using that little one in the console. (adding an oil pressure gauge (thank's Toby) interfered with having one there)). Thank you for sharing that, Tom. It's the perfect illustration for another aspect of my confusion. Those graphs illustrate what's happening at the distributor and need to be doubled to represent rpm and advance at the crank, since the distributor spins half as fast. That is not a timing curve. It's just an advance curve. In other words, it I don't think it's suggesting having as much as 42 degrees of centrifugal advance. It's simply saying the distributor puts out 20.5 degrees, plus or minus a degree. (I misinterpreted it and had that much when I made the graph in the upper right of my photo above). There's a vacuum advance curve in the book to go along with that one. Do you have that handy too, Tom? I beg your pardon? I have seen the light! That said, I think you were right. Try as I might, I couldn't make ported advance work as well as manifold. I did learn a ton along the way though. I've added a signature line to my profile. Tom
  5. When I first bought the variable light (thanks to @wegweiser 's suggestion) I used it to plot advance curves for the 164 I'm using now. I drew a graph showing the advance with and without the vacuum pod attached to both manifold and ported vacuum. That curve is in the upper left of this photo. The advantage to plotting the curve under the hood, as opposed to using the distributor tester, is that you can witness the vacuum signal; but the signal will vary when the engine is under load. I plot the curves differently now. The ones above included static timing, but now I draw them to show what the distributor puts out, the way they are drawn in the manual. Yesterday, I drew the curves for the 021 and 164 on top of each other to compare them. While the 021 puts out less advance than the 164 in the troublesome 2-3k rpm range, the timing had been set to have more at idle, (since ported vacuum doesn't add any) and that raised the rest of the curve. I can't count the number of times I've typed that. It seems like too many to be able to go back and edit all the posts, but I might try. I think I'll put something in my signature line to try to warn/inform future readers. I'm feeling a mix of "Yay, I learned something!" and "Boo! I've been giving shiddy advice." Tom
  6. I've been converted! I set the 164 distributor to give 16 degrees total-advance and now have the pod plumbed to manifold vacuum. The timing is set to 4 degrees at idle, with the vacuum signal turned off. The pod brings in another 12 degrees at idle, for a total of 16. At 4 degrees of advance it idles at 650 rpm and that increases to 800 at 16 degrees (with vacuum). The total advance (all-in @ 3200rpm) without vacuum is 35 and 47 with manifold vacuum added. It is running much better now. The vacuum on/off switch still shows that it runs smoother with the added advance. It behaves much better between 2-3k rpm now. I'm a happy guy.
  7. Big Block Chevies too and they put them right on top, under the rotor, where it's easy to get at them. Big block Delco distributors also have adjustable points. (the 5568 also has a dwell meter). Distributors are built to be adjustable, but the techniques are being forgotten; as tech-No-Logic-al de-vices do the work for us (so-called up-grades). Long live https://www.advanceddistributors.com/ ! I shortened the curve in my distributor, so it works with ported vacuum. I am content with how it is now, aside from some pinging if I give it too much throttle between 2-3k rpm. I'm wondering if stretching the curve and switching to manifold vacuum would eliminate that problem, by providing less advance in that rpm range. I'd rather not modify the one I'm using now, but might look back at my #164 and set it up for manifold vacuum. Starting with 3 degrees at idle, plus 12 for the pod would put me at 15. Then it'll drop back as throttle's applied and start increasing from there. (like John's) With an all-in advance target of 35, minus the three I'll see at idle, I'd want to achieve 32 degrees at the crank; so the distributor would put out 16. @thehackmechanic , do you know how much advance your vacuumed distributor is putting out? Would you mind sharing the part number on that one? Tom
  8. It's more complicated, but you're still "setting the total advance" and seeing what that leaves for idle advance. The main difference you will see in terms of advance (between m&p) is at idle. Using manifold vacuum will bring in advance at idle, but ported will not. Both ported and manifold vacuum drop out at full-throttle. Both add advance at light-throttle-cruise. I ran two vacuum gauges in my console for a while, so I could watch both the ported and manifold vacuum at the same time. It's an interesting comparison. Now, I have a ported-vacuum gauge in the console, so I can see when the pod is adding advance. I also have a switch hooked up to one of those cool little "emissions" solenoids, so I can turn-off the vacuum to the carb and note the difference it makes. It invariably stumbles and runs worse when I turn off that added advance during light-throttle-cruise. (full-advance for the pod ~ 10-12 degrees) I've had co-pilots confirm the difference it makes, to rule out wishful-thinking. There's more to it than just idle-concerns when it comes to assessing the benefits of vacuum advance, but choosing manifold vs. ported is based on idle-advance needs. Tom
  9. You could add a tab like this one for your double-brown grownd-wire.
  10. I put a blue Subarue jack there. The lug wrench fits inside the jack's base. and stuff
  11. Here's a link to the Parts Wanted forum. It comes up in the drop down menu at the top of the page if you hover over FORUMS and click on Classifieds, then Parts Wanted. Good luck with the hunt (for your new stalk). https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/forum/18-parts-wanted/
  12. While everything may work fine without it, I think I have discovered why they are there. I did not put mine back, in part, knowing I am going back inside the doors again (and again) to fix a few more things. On the passenger side, the window crank has taken a little bite out of the vinyl. I suspect the springs are used to take up the 'slack' in the panel in a way that insures a lack of interference. I stuck the fuzzy side of some Velcro tape to the back side of the handle to protect the vinyl. VW used them as well, but the spring is a little heavier. Actually, my '72 Suburban uses them too and I've taken some other trucks apart, so that could be a GM spring on the right. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=64-72+gm+door+window+regulator+springs&_sacat=0 https://www.google.com/search?q=Volkswagen+beetle+door+window+crank+springs&oq=Volkswagen+beetle+door+window+crank+springs&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigAdIBCTE0NTI2ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  13. It would have numbers on it if that was the case, correct?
  14. The odometer wasn't working when I bought my car. I drove it that way for a year or two and then fixed the odometer. While I had the shaft out (replaced with a bamboo skewer) I reset the odometer to zero, since it wasn't accurate anyway. Then, several years later, it stopped working again because the gear slipped on the shaft and slid over, so the gear at the odometer wasn't touching the other one. I put a little brass spacer behind it so it can't move over and it's been fine since then. I don't remember exactly what was involved when setting it to zero, but I think I did that while it was apart. The odometer reading is moot in Washington for vehicles older than 2010. It sounds like that's true on the Federal level too. Federal Odometer Disclosure Requirement Update - MAG MAGAUCTIONS.COM Effective January 1, 2021, McConkey Auction Group (MAG) has implemented the Federal Government’s new Odometer Disclosure Requirements. In summary: Please refer to the information below for model year… I'd like to know how many miles are on my car, but it's a mystery. I'd also like to know how many I've put on it, but the gaps due to an inop. odometer make that a mystery too. Tom
  15. My engine makes a similar noise, but not all the time. It's been that way for as long as I've owned it (12 years). In my case, I think it is the oil pump chain. Here's a post where Paul shared photos that show where his chain was hitting. (I miss Paul). Here's another post he made on the topic, with similar photos. One symptom of a (too) loose oil pump chain is a loud chain rattle. It's loud because it is hitting the oil return pipe on the front of the oil pump. If you can push the chain over and touch the pipe it is definitely too loose. The deflection is supposed to be +/- 5mm. Tom
  16. That doesn't look like a Bosch distributor. Are there any identifying marks on the body? The black plug inside the center post might be what's holding the rotor up. It's a felt plug in Bosch distributors. You should be able to compare them side by side to see what part is hanging up. It's hard to make that comparison from here. What is the part number on the Bosch rotor?
  17. I had a Crane XR 700 in one of my old VWs. I considered adding it to my 2002, but sold it with the VW. There are subtle differences in the center post/cam between some of the distributor models. Are the Crane trigger wheels one-size-fits-all? It's been years since I messed with one. I have more questions than answers.
  18. The one with a wide tip looks like the style used on the e21. Typically, they are the same height. Can you post a photo of the bottom side of them? I'm thinking someone may have shortened the wide tipped rotor to make it sit lower because the Crane disc on the center post cam is holding it up. Photos of that would be nice too. (For what it's worth), the e21 rotors have 1Kohm resistors built in and the stock 2002 rotors have 5Kohms. Usually, they will say 1R or 5R on the underside of Bosch rotors. I shorten the rotor for my distributor because I added a custom points holder. It's easy to do on a belt sander.
  19. Do you have a timing light to make sure the 123 is properly installed? Assuming you do, programming a curve that holds 25 degrees of advance between 2400-2600 rpm and then holding it within that range, you can look to make sure the BB on the flywheel is aligned with the driver's side of the oval hole in the bellhousing. If it is not, rotate the distributor until it is and then tighten it down.
  20. For your Tii? (the 32-36 Weber will require more advance than injected fuel).
  21. Those numbers look like they represent the distributor advance, as opposed to the crank advance. They'll be doubled at the crank. Keep the rpm points the same, but double all of the advance degrees.
  22. Does anyone want to try to fix this?
×
×
  • Create New...