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'76mintgrün'02

Solex
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Everything posted by '76mintgrün'02

  1. These do look flat. I prefer bulgy bulbs (lenses) too. Dammit. This is feeling like an impulse-purchase. Awesome value though.
  2. I cannot find that information anywhere. Does anyone know the wattage? It seems silly not to include that information.
  3. Good. Although I just bought a bunch of stuff I don't need. Shipping was $20 to Kingston. The Toyota dealer is 25 miles away, but I get down that way fairly often. I should have had two sets sent there, to have bulbs for my '72 Sububububurban. It'd've been cheaper than one set plus shipping. Live and lern. Tom
  4. Do I even need the plugs, if I already have H4 lights?
  5. Are the bulbs plug and play without the new harness on late cars, like my '76? Didn't they resolve the relay/switch issues? I ordered the kit, since my old Cibies are fogging, due to lens seal failure. They match the puhteena of the rest of my car, but prolly aren't as bright as they oughta be. Ideally, I wouldn't need to clutter up the wiring with new stuff. Tom
  6. I'm not sure whether this is helpful/necessary, but here's where the other of the two choke hoses connects to the intake manifold.
  7. The nipple that was screwed in there fed the water choke. Here's a thread on the topic. Tom
  8. Nothing. It was there when I bought it, but not connected to anything. I'm guessing it used to blink as part of an alarm, or something.
  9. That's not a terrible fit. The cup looks secure. The stitched vinyl sides of your console sure are nice. Here's my cup holder. (I make my own coffee). I cut up a Mercedes trunk mat at the wrecking yard for the bottom of the cubby and ran a strip between the seats, to cover the faded original carpet. The oil pressure gauge is hanging from a magnet. The stereo never got used, so I removed the speakers. I should probably remove the stereo too and move the oil pressure and vacuum gauges up. Tom
  10. I like the dial-style gauges, as opposed to flashing digits. That narrows the options and I have not shopped for them recently, but a name brand like Innovate or AEM should be fine. I use mine all the time, while out driving around. It's especially fun to watch on hill climbs to see how much gas I can give before it drops below twelve. If I was spending more of your money, I'd get a variable advance timing light as well. I have a twelve year old Innovate AFR gauge and Innova 5568 timing light purchased at the same time. Both are still functioning fine. Tom
  11. Here's a six-page thread discussing those carbs on an otherwise mostly stock engine. An AFR gauge is money well spent. Tom
  12. Which intake manifold do you have? (Single, or double barrel). I'll bet you can pull up the part number and specs. on the RealOEM site. If you select the "classic" option and fill in your car's manufacture date and other info, it'll take you to diagrams that 'fit.' Then you can bookmark that page and pull it up with ease in the future. Or, you can copy the diagram here and tell us exactly which part you are referring to. TOm
  13. The stock exhaust breathes just fine on a stock engine. I'd just cut the cat out and replace it with a piece of pipe. (I've never seen a catalytic converter installed on a 2002). Tom EDIT-- it might actually be cheaper/easier to simply replace the down pipe. Rock Auto has an ANZA pipe for fifty bucks. More Information for ANSA BW0201 WWW.ROCKAUTO.COM
  14. Was that the inspiration for the round headlights too?
  15. How do you know they're good? If you have this style battery clamp, your ground may not be good. Posting photos often helps and makes the thread much more interesting. Have you tested the voltage? If your battery's fairly new and yet it is dead, you probably have alternator issues. Last year, I drove 500 miles at 80 mph. on the interstate with a dead alternator and watched the battery voltage drop from 12.7 to 11.1. I needed the headlights for the last 15 miles, which didn't help. It was starting to run a little rough by the time I got home. Try that in a modern car! The long leads on my volt meter (the same one in the link I shared above) came in handy, since they reach from the battery into the cockpit; allowing me to witness the voltage drop. The battery charged back up just fine. (Additional sales pitch for the INNOVA 5568) This is a great excuse to by a volt meter and a battery charger, if you don't already have them. Tom P.S. I see you joined the forum last Saturday. Welcome. Now, let's get that post count up!
  16. I did the same thing to mine, but I don't have cup holders. I also did the back side of the four plastic hinge covers. They still l@@k kind of cheap, but at least they no longer sound that way when you touch them. Plus, the back side of the space bar as well as my computer's mouse. Ironically, I used very little of it on my car's floor pan. Just circles cut to fit over the 'drain hole covers' and patches stuck to the firewall. I enjoy listening to the sounds the car makes... except for the wind noise.
  17. But, does it have juice? It sure sounds like a dead battery. Do you have a volt meter to check the battery voltage and see what the alternator is putting out? If not, I'd buy this one. (It comes with a free variable advance timing light, a dwell meter and a tachometer built in). Innova 5568 Innova Pro Timing Lights | Summit Racing WWW.SUMMITRACING.COM Free Shipping - Innova Pro Timing Lights with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Timing Lights at Summit Racing.
  18. I wouldn't be as concerned about the sand as the leaded paint being blown everywhere. That's a nasty mess that ought to be contained. Here's some info on the topic. Legal stuff about blasting in PA-- https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2017-08/documents/36_6pgs.pdf Lead in auto paint-- https://www.dcceew.gov.au/environment/protection/chemicals-management/lead/lead-in-auto-paints From that link-- Lead pigments Lead colouring agents have been used for many years in auto enamels and lacquers. The highest levels of lead are found in the orange, red and yellow tones, where concentrations of more than 20% are common. The pigments used in these highly coloured paints are based on lead sulphochromate and molybdate lead chromate. They are opaque and can be ground into fine particles, making them ideal for the high-gloss paints used on cars. They are also durable and resistant to ultra-violet light. For older cars, the refinish industry can only provide accurate colour matches to vehicles that currently have paint containing lead on them by using the same lead-based pigments. If you are using these products you should be careful when sanding-down old paints and when spraying with new ones. Some older cars may also contain lead auto-body filler. Lower concentrations of lead are present in the grüns, browns and beiges. Vintage car enthusiasts and amateur car restorers who strip and paint cars in their own garages or backyards could be unwittingly creating health risks for themselves, their families, neighbors and pets.
  19. we only got one horn (I installed two horns from an e21 at the junk yard)
  20. Is this one of the holes? I almost got a shot of the front one. (dug this old photo up from a post I made when I removed the air pump mount)
  21. Yes, if you have rubber bushings you'll need to tighten them with weight on the wheels, plus the typical load, as per the Blue Book. If you're using polyurethane bushings, you can torque them anytime, since they pivot on the sleeves like a hinge; they don't get stressed like rubber, which is fused to the sleeve. If you do have rubber, I'd loosen and retorque them per the Book, since you're making big changes to the suspension.
  22. That's a pretty one. I don't recognize it, but @7502 might. Welcome to the PNW. I'm a bit south of Bellingham on the Kitsap Peninsula. Tom
  23. I think it's the little ANSA cylindrical "Sport mufflers" that are loud. The RA stuff should sound like OEM, more or less. I've read that the exhaust might drone without the resonator and it's an added bonus that it comes with the pipe that runs up over the axle. It's not a straight swap between center and side exit mufflers, due to hanger placement. There is extra work involved when fitting a center exit muffler in a '74 or earlier car. I learned this while putting a side exit muffler in my '76.
  24. It may be lens distortion, but the alternator looks out of alignment. If you haven't replaced the rubber isolators/bushings you might consider adding that to the list of fun stuff to do. Or, maybe they line up just fine. There is a small hole in the firewall to the left of the steering column, for the manual choke cable. It may have a rubber plug in it. I have wires running through that hole.
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