'76mintgrün'02

Sounds like you're due for a new one too. That thing must be filthy by now! Thank you for providing the part number. Google showed me this one. It looks like the same basic design as the WIX I tried, but the inner mesh (screen) is weak enough to get smashed by the lid, so it may seal better. Here's an online snapshot of the Hengst E183L. The Mann C3260 looks very similar to the Hengst. Both have sturdy inner metal bands and a lot of pleats. More pleats equals more surface area. The thick soft rubber ridge on the top and bottom are set back from the edge of the band and fit into the grooves in the air cleaner base and lid. FCPEuro has them? They say they're 'available' but that they ship in 4 - 6 w e e k s . I'll bet that's a Mann filter and they just chose a nicer example for the photo. (It's the same photo as the one above it). I probably just got an especially chitty example. I take the lid off of my air cleaner every time I reinstall it to make sure everything's aligned right, so I'm handling the air filter fairly often. It's wet more often than dusty around here, so they stay clean for years. It's worth it to me to pay a little more for a nicer example, if I can find one. Unfortunately, around here, that means mail-order; which makes returning duds a hassle. Thanks for all the thoughts, suggestions and contributions. Tom

The Innova 5568 is a very nice light. Well worth the cost. Shopping around online should get you one for just over $100 (last I looked). Tom

Much touchier pedal with the 38-38. (Makes it feel peppier than the 32-36).

If the advance port is connected to manifold vacuum 12 degrees will be added to those 12 degrees, for a total of 24 at idle. Ported vacuum will not add advance at idle. I had mine set to 12 at idle and 38 total, using ported. Now, I have mine set to 4 at idle 35 total, using manifold. (different distributor/slightly modified) I was getting pinging between 2-3K rpm with the previous settings. Now, I don't have that problem. I haven't looked at the BB lately. Based on the curve, it should be at around 1900 rpm, (adding 4 degrees for static timing). The graph is drawn to show distributor advance, which doubles at the crank, along with rpm. The BB is at 12.5 degrees (25 crank) and all-in happens at 1600 rpm (3200 crank). Tom

You'll probably need to measure yours and then create a scale to fit. Or make lines, or whatever. The flywheel is more accurate. You need to clean off the flywheel and add paint to the OT line (TDC) and BB (25*) to make it easy to see. It's worth the little bit of effort. A variable timing light is an essential tuning too, in my opinion. Do you have one? I've got a '76 with a #164 distributor and am using manifold vacuum now, having used the Weber port(ed) in the past. It is running better than ever. I also backed off the total advance when I made the switch (switched distributors at that time too). I have 35 all in, with 4* at idle, plus the vacuum pod (which is currently adding more than I'd like). John76 has that dual-action pod on his '76 and is using manifold vacuum too. (trend-setter) I'd recommend setting total advance to 34 and see what that leaves at idle. I'm guessing it won't be much; but the manifold vacuum connected to the front of your pod will pull in around twelve more at idle. It'll cut out when you mash the pedal. We have been discussing this topic in another thread. You're welcome to join us! https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/335822-weber-3236-vacuum-advance-question/#comments Sorry I can't answer your pulley marking question. I do have unsolicited suggestions to offer though! TOm

Oregon: 296 stations Check out this link and click on OR to see your options. Pure-gas.org - ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada WWW.PURE-GAS.ORG Pure-gas.org is the definitive web site listing stations that sell pure gasoline in the U.S. and Canada.

Also, use Ethanol-Free Gasoline, which will not absorb water. It's friendlier on your carb's guts too. (It's back up to $5/gal. here; but worth every penny, compared to Corn-Gas). EDIT, congratulations. I love the "I cleaned it and now it works again" fixes. It's funny how often that happens.

I've read quite a few times that you can grind a bit off the caliper to make it fit (in some situations). Apparently, there is plenty of extra meat built into them. How close is it? Or search away with those key words, to see if I'm remembering posts with that combination. Thanks again for the headlight tip! Tom

Nice. Try to find the two original mounting brackets. It's a brilliant design, having the support out at the edges because the air cleaner assembly is heavy and the engine vibrates. The metal in the dome of the air cleaner is brittle and will crack if it is mounted with screws. I like to use wing nuts to mount the filter so it doesn't require tools to get in there. Tom

Do it, Dave! That's one of the best things I've done for my car. Here's a link to a lonnnng thread on the topic. Tom

I tried to order a Hengst filter from an online source, but they refunded my money saying they're out of stock, so I went with Mann, since my old one seemed nice. Now, I get to thank Barry every time I open the air filter.

I agree about the rubber used in the Mann filters. That's why I ordered one. I just find the aesthetics of the one I bought to be off-putting. I could live with the color, it's hidden after all, but the globbiness of the bubble gum bugs me. Is yours nice like the old orange one I showed? I'd like to think mine's just defective and they're still making quality parts.

Now that is a nice air filter! See how the rubber ring at the top is separate from the metal mesh at the edge? That's the problem with the WIX, the mesh makes the tall part rigid, so it cannot compress/seal. Thank you, Barry! Tom

Last year I replaced an old dirty Mann filter with a NAPA filter, made by WIX. When I removed the cover last week, I noticed quite a bit of dust on the inside of the filter housing and there was evidence of it getting under the filter. I don't recall driving anywhere very dusty, but there was quite a bit of grittiness on the wrong side of the filter. I noticed that the profile of the rubber was different than the Mann and it's stiffer rubber too. The Mann filter's shape fits into the groove on the base, but the WIX has a hard ridge that rides there, not letting the rest of the surface seal. So, I ordered a new Mann filter to replace the new WIX filter and learned that the quality has gone downhill since my old one was made. First off, it's PINK! Second, it looks like gooey bubble gum. Third, they couldn't even get the pleat spacing right. If I'd bought it locally, I'd have opened the box in the store and said never mind. I put it back in the box and stuck the WIX filter back in the car for now. I may see about adding thin foam to the underside to seal it. The old Mann filters were a lot nicer. Who still makes a nice filter that fits our air cleaners?

Nice! Did you put a couple drops of oil under the felt plug inside the center post while you had the rotor off? Is your cap marked GERMANY?

R5 example made in GERMANY. I'm using the coil that was on the car when I bought it 12 years ago. It's also marked GERMANY. I also installed a used condenser that has GERMANY stamped in it. I get a kick out of putting German made parts on my car. It seems like these parts last a very long time. My tune-ups have more to do with adjustment than replacement.

I prefer the simplicity of the non-mechanized rotors. The wide tipped one you showed looks like the one I'm using. You can measure the resistance between the tip and center. I'll bet that's a 1k ohm rotor. I have not measured the bakelite plug wire ends' resistance. I adjusted rotor resistance to keep the overall resistance close to the original design. (I was told that it didn't matter which end of the run the resistance was on, plug or rotor). Here is a link to some VW info, much of it also applies to our cars. https://ratwell.com/technical/IgnitionSystem.html This is from that. Which Rotor? If you have a Bosch distributor you should be using a Bosch or Beru rotor. They are the best made parts you can buy that are not only inexpensive but well made and long lasting. Only buy a rotor from the local auto parts chain in an emergency. Better yet, carry a Bosch/Beru spare. If you have a stock ignition system your rotor is probably Bosch 04033 (or perhaps the 04016 rev limiting version). These rotors have an embedded 5 kohm resistor. The resistor serves several purposes: Limits current to reduce erosion of the spark plug electrode Reduce radio frequency interference (RFI) Works with coil to increase the burn duration of the spark Limit reverse current to protect the ignition switch Keep an eye on the underside of the cap. Sometimes there is an alignment problem with the 002 and Pertronix. This was mine. I called Pertronix and they recommended the model I used. I think it was wrong. Sometimes the magnetic ring won't let the rotor sit low enough on the 002 and it rides hard up against the cap, so keep an eye on that too. It's easy to see the problem because there'll be evidence of rubbing.

Plus, around thirty zip ties and a little tube of dielectric grease. The rubber covers over the back of the harness headlight plugs are nice too.

Unfortunately, you'll find that only the NGK resistor plugs are available now. They discontinued non-resistor plugs. You can switch brands, or switch rotors, to offset the added resistance. The resistor plugs add 5K ohms of resistance and the stock rotor has 5K ohms, but the e21 rotors only have 1K ohms of resistance. I'm using BPR5ES plugs now with the e21 rotor. I may switch to Champion plugs and put the other rotor in when I am due for new plugs, but I also like the wider tip on the e21 rotor, since I'm using a vacuum advance distributor. Not necessary, but nice, anyway.

Be sure to check/replace the link with a cross pin. That assembly added a lot of slop to mine. Do you have the early or late style shifter (shown above in c.d.'s images). I have the late style and the link/pin assembly are parts # 1-6. Part(s) # 21 (2) are plastic and wear out as well. I used bronze bushings there. There are old threads showing that process.

Minus one for cork. I'm guessing the filter is a screen, which you can probably just clean and reuse. Can you open it up and share photos with us? Photos are fun. Gasket cutters are fun too. OLFA makes a modern one.

I should have read this more carefully the first time. The outside nipple is what feeds the pod and the gauge. The inside one is connected to the manifold. So, there's not a leak to the manifold when the switch is turned off. I tried sucking air through the extra switch and that's the way it works; so, there's no need to change the plumbing. It wouldn't be a big deal to swap those hoses (tubes), except for having the valve T-ed in. (Trivia-- the difference between hoses and tubes is that hoses have reinforcement. So, we have fuel / coolant hoses and vacuum tubes. (Not to be confused electronical components)).

I reinforced my driver's side mount bracket with the subframe installed, when I removed the steering box to reseal it. It wasn't ideal, but doable. They're not my prettiest welds, but nobody's going to see them. (unless they're reading this) I went with the boxed-in solution, but either way works. Just make sure to leave room for the nut, so the stud on the mount is long enough. Double layers aren't necessary up there, since the cracking happens down low. Tom

When I installed the kit's wiring harness to power the driver's side bulb and left the passenger's side bulb wired as-was, there seemed to be a slight increase in light on the d's side. The p's side light had a tiny bit more yellow to it, but the difference was subtle. The car was not running, so they were not as bright as if the alternator was spinning. I followed the instructions given in this thread, plugging the new harness into the driver's side bulb socket. I assumed it'd be using the socket's power feed as the trigger feed for the new lights, since they tap power directly from the battery. If that's the case, are the "relays powered by relays" or just triggered by them? Is that also bad? I'm not going to bother with installing the extra wiring anytime soon. The improvement over my old lights with corroding reflectors will be enough to suit my needs. I've used the little tube of silicone grease included the kit on my Subaru. I haven't found a use for the thirty zip ties yet, but they're nice to have too. This was a very generous offering by Toyota. Tom

Not yet. I have another white valve I can try that on, using the Sun machine's vacuum pump to test it.