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maikell77

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Posts posted by maikell77

  1. Price: $2500
    Location: Farmington Hills, MI


    Description:

    It is with much regret that I am putting up for sale my BMW 2002.  I just don't have the time anymore to realistically work on it and finish it.  Hoping someone can get it across the goaline and enjoy it.  I have linked the build blog and my local craigslist.

     

    https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/d/1969-bmw-2002-track-project/6481723708.html

     

    https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/193-2404ti-build/
     

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    • Sad 1
  2. Thanks for the information.  I am kind of locked into losing the booster due to the engine swap.  I will be going to a wilwood pedal assembly.  As far as the calipers wilwoods aren't too much more compared to rebuilt stock type.  This car is not so much about looks as going quickly and being reliable and maintainable.  I will gladly trade a bit of speed for more track time.

  3. I am in the process of trying to turn my garage art back into a car.  The car will be pretty stripped down and have 175 hp.  I'm trying to firm up the brake choice for the car.  It will see the occasional track day and autocross but mainly be a nice weather back road burner.

     

    The setup I am currently considering is manual brakes, wilwood separate master cylinders.  With the 323i vented front rotors with wilwood calipers and for the rear the 250 mm drums.

     

    I know with a track car you can never have too much brakes.  Would this be safe to get me on the road and enjoying the car.  The more exotic setup with much larger from rotors and rear discs is quite a bit more.  I like the idea of this setup because calipers excepted its all stuff I can replace at a local parts store or rockauto pretty easily.

     

    Other pertinent information

    15x7 wheels 

    205/50r15 tires (200 treadwear in the future)

    box flares

    interior stripped to two seats, carpet, door cards, cage

  4. It looks like they cut off the original insert top and crammed a new insert into the lower left overs.  I have not been able to get it free.  I give the drill and drift method a try. I've been working on this car for well over a year and I can almost see that glorious moment of driving it.  The front struts might push me to IE's coil over which would be great but the budget hit will delay driving.

  5. My 1602 that is destined to be a track car, has severely damaged strut tubes.  The inserts are torn up and cannot be removed.  I am looking for  a set of strut tubes to put new inserts and lowering springs into.

     

    Location: Near Detroit MI

  6. My 1602 that is destined to be a track car, has severely damaged strut tubes.  The inserts are torn up and cannot be removed.  I am looking for  a set of strut tubes to put new inserts and lowering springs into.

     

    Location: Near Detroit MI

  7. Thanks for the information.  Your car is pretty much what sold me on flares.  Mine will not end up looking anywhere near as nice as yours.  It's great inspiration.  I'm not taking a break from body work to figure out drivetrain.  I've been tossing around a bad idea.......

    ActLtTc.jpg

    In my defense it was just sitting around in the garage.

  8. I did finally get the matching front pair.  It took much work, but they are finally on and the fine tuning of the body work can begin.... After I patch the doors and behind the rear bumper.

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlV0h2d3FUT1pNVXM/view?usp=sharing

     

    I can fully vouch that the advise of buy the most solid car you can is the best advice ever.  This car was so bad I don't know that it would have been a decent parts car.  I wanted to learn the skills and have a 2002 just the way I wanted it.

  9. Honestly a good bit comes down to the pain it has been trying to get the fenders, and now trying to rectify the situation.  I'd rather the fenders be a bit off and keep moving forward than have to keep calling daily to get the right ones sent.  Then take another half day off of work for the shipment to arrive and then take another half day to send back the old ones.

     

    Besides this car will spend a great deal of time on track, there is a possibility it might go in WRL.  If it does the fenders will probably have a shorter life....

  10. Made some progress this weekend.  I have decided to keep the pig cheeks and get the box fronts sent as well.  On the fence about mix and match or keep them matching.  I figure it probably worth it to just fit both and pick once the car is a uniform color. I don't know if my car was wrecked or I'm just a horrible body guy but the fronts have been much harder to fit than the rear.  So far just the passenger side is fitted.  Tons of room in there for bigger tires.

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlZFUzZ25tSFRqLVE/view?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlcGwyNHJhQVVTSlU/view?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlZFFObFRjTFpQTWs/view?usp=sharing

  11. Got the car put back together a little bit more for a more accurate mock up.

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlaW5wRHJXRUxuWFE/view?usp=sharing

     

    A different angle.

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlWkVjVTBWQUE5bWM/view?usp=sharing

     

    Keep in mind I haven't started really fitting the panels.  The are pretty much just held loosely up in place.  Did get luck and found more rust, behind the rear bumper and in the door!  At least I'm learning, and learning on at best a parts car....

  12. Supposed to be Box flares on both, they do have the cut outs for the stock bumpers.  It's a long road yet, I'm just beyond thrilled to do something other than rust repair.  (all the floors, front cowl, back window corners, front lower quarters, under the rear vent windows, both sides, passenger rocker)

  13. Well the shipment with fender just arrived! Still working through cutting out the wheel wells.  I ended up going a different route due to previous work and rust.  I basically cut the inner wheel well about 1" outside of the seam (inner meeting outer inner wheel well).  Then welded in new metal from that flat surface to the outer skin.

     

    The rears look like they will fit up real well.  I think most of my time will be spent making the front fit near the headlight buckets.  Any tips there?

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlZnB3QnIwVThjdlU/view?usp=sharing

    Couldn't resist mocking it up.

  14. I have a very very very rusty 1969 2002 that I have slowly exorcizing the rust demons from.  As it stands right now I've rebuilt the front cowl, the floors....all of them, the quarter glass window seals, and no tackling the rocker and lower quarter panel.  I plan to have this car as a streetable track toy.  The plan is to go with the box flares. 

     

    I wanted to see if anyone had pictures of how they "tubbed" the rear wheel arches.  Mine are rusty so they need work no matter what.

     

    I would like to get started on the tubbing before the fenders get ordered off.  My time is cheap the parts aren't.  Just trying to stay busy and hopefully at some point stop repairing rust.

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