Jump to content

maikell77

Solex
  • Posts

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by maikell77

  1. I am in the process of trying to turn my garage art back into a car. The car will be pretty stripped down and have 175 hp. I'm trying to firm up the brake choice for the car. It will see the occasional track day and autocross but mainly be a nice weather back road burner. The setup I am currently considering is manual brakes, wilwood separate master cylinders. With the 323i vented front rotors with wilwood calipers and for the rear the 250 mm drums. I know with a track car you can never have too much brakes. Would this be safe to get me on the road and enjoying the car. The more exotic setup with much larger from rotors and rear discs is quite a bit more. I like the idea of this setup because calipers excepted its all stuff I can replace at a local parts store or rockauto pretty easily. Other pertinent information 15x7 wheels 205/50r15 tires (200 treadwear in the future) box flares interior stripped to two seats, carpet, door cards, cage
  2. just moved to Farmington Hills.
  3. It looks like they cut off the original insert top and crammed a new insert into the lower left overs. I have not been able to get it free. I give the drill and drift method a try. I've been working on this car for well over a year and I can almost see that glorious moment of driving it. The front struts might push me to IE's coil over which would be great but the budget hit will delay driving.
  4. My 1602 that is destined to be a track car, has severely damaged strut tubes. The inserts are torn up and cannot be removed. I am looking for a set of strut tubes to put new inserts and lowering springs into. Location: Near Detroit MI
  5. My 1602 that is destined to be a track car, has severely damaged strut tubes. The inserts are torn up and cannot be removed. I am looking for a set of strut tubes to put new inserts and lowering springs into. Location: Near Detroit MI
  6. https://www.wallothnesch.com/karosserie-blechteile/bmw-1502-2002-turbo.html You will probably want to do a lower front quarter patch while you are in there. They ship the stuff straight from Germany. Shipping is not near as bad as you might think and it get to your door quick.
  7. I'll be out in the Plymouth/Novi area near Detroit.
  8. I've recently accepted a new job all the way up in Michigan. That means it's time to get the car kind of back together so I can move and continue the build. The goal has been to finish up some bracing and get the whole car in primer. Most of it will have to come off in the process of blocking the car, but at least it's one color. Don't want to scare off the neighbors too quick. There she sits on the brand new Basset racing wheels with the 205/50R15 tires. The wheels are good quality, cheap and in my opinion look awesome. The downside and it's a big one, they weight a ton. Seriously they are 20# a piece. At $50 a wheel they will serve well for mock up and getting me on the road. There is the bracing that was added. I realize it won't add the most in stiffness but it makes jacking the car up so much easier. The transmission tunnel had to pretty much come out to clear the Asin AR5 trans that mates up to the LE5 2.4L. The shifter looks to be a bit rearward, but I was planning to more the driving position rearward as well. The tubes for the bracing go through the floor pan and are then sandwiched inside the existing frame rails. I will eventually add some extra plating to beef up the frame rails extending to the front subframe. I have started putting some of the trim back on. My thought is, should be less likely to be damaged if it's on the car. The fenders and the wheels seem to fit like I had imagined them when to project started. There will be a ton of body work to go. The deck lid has become my paint test area. It is so rusty and full of bondo I have deemed it a lost cause. It will be replaced with a fiberglass skin at some point in the future. Those are spare Alpina flares. They need a good home, anyone in the DFW area PM me and come and get them.
  9. Finally got the subframe clearnaced to allowe the engine to move back 2". I was also able to drop the back end a little bit. For engine mount isolators, I'm using 1991 BMW 318i hydraulic mounts. Above is a picture showing were they mounts are on the subframe and where the oil pan is in realation. The passenger side engine mount I made out of 0.100" 4130 steel. It's not pretty but it's not bad for my first iteration. The driverside was made using 1.50" X 0.120" roll cage tube. I tried to make it a bit smaller to allow more room for the dipstick, steering and master cylinder. Final result, engine is in, supported on it's own mounts. I look to have enough room to use an off the shelf budget 3 pass radiator with fan and shroud, from eastwood. The next big mission will be getting the transmission in. That will take a substatial amount of clearancing to make it fit. Once the big pieces are in place I will probably try to get the rest of the steering assembly mocked in before cleaning up mounts and adding more bracing.
  10. I've spent the better part of a year just dealing with rust on this car. So far the following have been repaired - floor pans, all four quadrants - rockers, both - lower quarters, both - front cowl area, pretty much the wiper spindles were all that was salvagable - under the back windows -still to do the doors Then I got a bit side tracked and wanted to make it pretty so, I put on some box flares. I also managed to track down a rack and pinion out of a 320I. It was a manual rack. The thinking was to clear up some space in the engine compartment. Although it seems I could have probably made the stock steering box clear. That bring me up to today. Finally tracked down the drivetrain pieces that I have been looking for. The transmission is out of a Saturn Sky Redline. It should be good for up to 300 ft-lb, more than I'll make. I picked it up for $450 with hydraulic throw out bearing. The engine is from a 2009 Pontiac G6. It's a variable valve timed, all aluminum DOHC 4 cylinder. In stock form it puts out ~170 hp and 165 ft-lb. In this installation the exhaust and intake should free up a few ponies. The engine is used quite a bit by sand rail guys. They can be tuned to 200+ NA and up to 300hp with a turbo. The bigger pluses for this application, weight and price. According to all sources its no heavier than the M10 that came out, so handling shouldn't be spoiled. Price is hard to beat at $475 for the complete engine with all electronics and harnesses. Before anyone gets too angry. I started with a 1.6l, the amount of money needed to get to 170hp would have been way more and it would not have had electronic fuel injection.
  11. Thanks for the information. Your car is pretty much what sold me on flares. Mine will not end up looking anywhere near as nice as yours. It's great inspiration. I'm not taking a break from body work to figure out drivetrain. I've been tossing around a bad idea....... In my defense it was just sitting around in the garage.
  12. I did finally get the matching front pair. It took much work, but they are finally on and the fine tuning of the body work can begin.... After I patch the doors and behind the rear bumper. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlV0h2d3FUT1pNVXM/view?usp=sharing I can fully vouch that the advise of buy the most solid car you can is the best advice ever. This car was so bad I don't know that it would have been a decent parts car. I wanted to learn the skills and have a 2002 just the way I wanted it.
  13. Honestly a good bit comes down to the pain it has been trying to get the fenders, and now trying to rectify the situation. I'd rather the fenders be a bit off and keep moving forward than have to keep calling daily to get the right ones sent. Then take another half day off of work for the shipment to arrive and then take another half day to send back the old ones. Besides this car will spend a great deal of time on track, there is a possibility it might go in WRL. If it does the fenders will probably have a shorter life....
  14. Made some progress this weekend. I have decided to keep the pig cheeks and get the box fronts sent as well. On the fence about mix and match or keep them matching. I figure it probably worth it to just fit both and pick once the car is a uniform color. I don't know if my car was wrecked or I'm just a horrible body guy but the fronts have been much harder to fit than the rear. So far just the passenger side is fitted. Tons of room in there for bigger tires. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlZFUzZ25tSFRqLVE/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlcGwyNHJhQVVTSlU/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlZFFObFRjTFpQTWs/view?usp=sharing
  15. Got the car put back together a little bit more for a more accurate mock up. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlaW5wRHJXRUxuWFE/view?usp=sharing A different angle. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlWkVjVTBWQUE5bWM/view?usp=sharing Keep in mind I haven't started really fitting the panels. The are pretty much just held loosely up in place. Did get luck and found more rust, behind the rear bumper and in the door! At least I'm learning, and learning on at best a parts car....
  16. Look to add about two inches. I'm honestly kind of liking the mix and match. I'm going to get the door back on for mock up before I decide what to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. After looking closer, they are definitely miss-matched. I must have missed it last night in my new part arrival delirium. Looks like I got Alpina V.1 fronts and Box Flare rear.
  18. Supposed to be Box flares on both, they do have the cut outs for the stock bumpers. It's a long road yet, I'm just beyond thrilled to do something other than rust repair. (all the floors, front cowl, back window corners, front lower quarters, under the rear vent windows, both sides, passenger rocker)
  19. Well the shipment with fender just arrived! Still working through cutting out the wheel wells. I ended up going a different route due to previous work and rust. I basically cut the inner wheel well about 1" outside of the seam (inner meeting outer inner wheel well). Then welded in new metal from that flat surface to the outer skin. The rears look like they will fit up real well. I think most of my time will be spent making the front fit near the headlight buckets. Any tips there? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xvvqWWpSFlZnB3QnIwVThjdlU/view?usp=sharing Couldn't resist mocking it up.
  20. THANK YOU!!! Boxy02, your '02 looks great. I am hoping to make mine a decent looking track weapon. I do have hopes of swapping an LE5 Ecotec and 5 speed.....
  21. I have a very very very rusty 1969 2002 that I have slowly exorcizing the rust demons from. As it stands right now I've rebuilt the front cowl, the floors....all of them, the quarter glass window seals, and no tackling the rocker and lower quarter panel. I plan to have this car as a streetable track toy. The plan is to go with the box flares. I wanted to see if anyone had pictures of how they "tubbed" the rear wheel arches. Mine are rusty so they need work no matter what. I would like to get started on the tubbing before the fenders get ordered off. My time is cheap the parts aren't. Just trying to stay busy and hopefully at some point stop repairing rust.
  22. Shipping really wasn't too bad. I had front and rear passenger floor pans shipped to me. All in $195.20 and I had them in about 4 days.
  23. VIN: 1566910 Original color appears to have been Chaminox. The car is green, was orange before, and I'm finding evidence of it being Chaminox. Surprisingly the rust is not quite as bad as some I’m seen. The driver side rocker is pretty solid, passenger side has some rot. The nose is fairly straight and solid, as are the inner front fenders and trunk. Most of the rust is around the windows, the passenger side floor and the passenger side heater box/cowl area. I've found a ton of vegetation, so I think the car was parked in a field at a slight incline. The passenger floor is much worse than the driver’s side, but the frame rails are pristine on the inside. I'm trying to finish the floors before I pull the windshield.....There is bondo over the glass. I'm trying to stagger the rust discovery.
  24. I have taken on the massive undertaking of getting my 1969 2002 back to solid shape. I have replaced most of the floor pans, and I am currently in the process of repairing the rockers. Next on my list is repairing around the windshield. Is there any replacement sheetmetal or do I need to fab my own? I have seen a "A-post" patch panel. I am having a tough time figureing out where it fits in. Has anyone used that patch, is it worth the money? Thanks,
  25. I'm interested to see how this car ends up. I've been trying to convince the misses to let me check that one out for 2 months. Hope it works out for you.
×
×
  • Create New...