Jump to content

maikell77

Solex
  • Content Count

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by maikell77

  1. the last little steps seem to take quite a bit of time. I did wheel the car out into the sunlight just cause. The Uro door seal install really was not too bad. Followed the excellent advice from the FAQ. starting at the corner and then jumping to the bottom of the door and working up sure helped. also the harbor freight plastic tools for interior panels are great for weather strip installation. They allow you to push the rubber into the correct tracks without damage. With the right tool and method it did not take much time at all. Also the permatex adhesive worked well too. With the outside of the car sealed up I closed up the tunnel to have the cabin sealed up for the pending drive. I am originally from Texas, living in Michigan. The Indiana plates are a call back to 2009 when I first was bit with the BMW 2002 bug and joined the FAQ. The last parts holding me up is the driveshaft. I have received an adapter for the driveshaft to transmission. Which will allow me to use a GM 1350 spicer style flange and U-joint. On the rear another adapter will allow use of a Spicer 1310 joint. Once I have these adapters I can measure have the custom driveshaft built up.
  2. maikell77

    more progress

    Some more progress was made over the holiday weekend. The cooling system finally got the full plumb up. It ended up taking 4 hoses to make 2. The system seems to purge the air pretty well and that's what matters. Haven't gotten warm enough to trip the fan yet, so that will still need to be checked out. All in I think the engine bay turned out fairly clean for this much modern in a car that never had it. it really is amazing how much work it takes to make a modern EFI engine look simple. The pay off is it starts every time at the bump of the starter and revs nice. i am really looking forward to the first drive. Over the weekend I also upgraded from the Girling brake setup to the Massive Brake kit. I never was really pleased with how the girling setup came out. My aftermarket master cylinder was set fro single line calipers, meaning the girling setup was a bit nasty. The massive brake kit is a really nice bracket, and less than complete kit. I will give them credit for trying to make it right, but I still had to scramble, vacation time is not that plentiful, to find the correct bolt after it shipped with the wrong ones. I have the brake lines routed the way I believe the kit would have you. In the future I will go back and do it the correct way with braided lines straight from the caliper to the chassis. That way I can get rid of two more joints. The wiring also came along ways. The signals and console got wired up. Now at this point getting my gauges on a switched 12V and a plate light are really all electrically that is keeping the 2402 off the road. Now I just have to work out the driveshaft for that elusive first drive.
  3. maikell77

    IT'S ALIVE

    After some interesting trouble shooting finally got it all sorted. I have supply and return plumbed but at current I am running the ECM built in returnless setup. The initial issue was thought to be fuel related. The actual problem was the MAF. The tune supplied was supposed to be speed density. The ECM apparently still tries to use the MAF if it's hooked up. Unplugged the MAF and BOOM! It's ALIVE!! Cabin wiring is starting to come along. it has been just a daunting task, but finally I think I have it down to some manageable task and have the wire grouped. I am finishing up the console to wire up this weekend. driver side is finally getting cleaned up with the only remaining wires for the floor dimmer switch. IMG_7344.MOV
  4. It was much more of a pain than anticipated to get all the brake plumbing sorted and bleed but it's behind me now. The 2402 now sits on eibach lowering springs. the rear looks right, the front still sits a little high for my liking. The recent activity has been to get the car wired and fuel system complete. The wiring started out quite unruly... I have spent quite a bit of time routing and re-routing with many many zip ties. The acrylic panel will mount in the glovebox area. It will give good access to the relays, fuses and a good place to mount my OBD port. There will be many many more hours spent integrating the Speedway harness with the ECM. Finally on to fuel system. The pump is mounted and almost all my plumbing supplies have arrived.
  5. It's been a while since my last post. I have made progress it has just been extremely slow going. To go forward you have to go backwards. That means the engine out...again. Dropped from above, not too scary. Still not high enough...getting sketchy. Its Free! And I can breath again. With the engine out of the way i finished up brake lines and fuel hard lines. Not too bad looking of an engine compartment. Now time to add in the rats nest of speedway harness... I moved the battery to the trunk and made a new mount for it. I might have oversized the battery a little... After two orders the correct clutch finally arrived and the engine is ready to go back to its home! After years of hoping a turbo finally materialized from work...A lovely GT2867 ball bearing with a small turbine stage. This will be stage two. It will spool IMMEDIATELY with the 2.4L ecotec. I will get it running NA first, but turbo will probably be next winter's project.
  6. I am trying to build a plan to have this car running and driving for the Hot Rod Power Tour this year, or at least the Woodward Dream Cruise in August. From looking at my turn radius I need to shorten the front steering arms for the rack and pinion travel to work. The question I have is, is it a horrible idea to drill the stock arm for a shorter arm? I plan to use heim joints with a through bolt and spacer. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/55716-shortening-pitman-arms/?page=2 This is from another FAQ thread, the one I based my e21 rack on. The more I have thought about this the more i do not like the idea of cutting and welding the steering arm. The through bolt i would use is similar to the 2002 in shaft size. That would leave me with roughly the same cross section of material on either side of the hole. In my mind this is less risky than the cut and weld. The reason for the change is simply because the rack i have does not have enough travel to give me the same steering angle as stock. Before it's asked i have to go to a rack to gain clearance for the engine swap.
  7. Finally got around to starting the wiring of the 2402TI. The speedway kit I picked up was nice and fairly straight forward. Spent a few days trying to really plan out where everything was going. Then I learned that the kit really works well with a GM column connector. That got me to thinking about if i could get rid of a U joint with a longer column. Sure enough I can! so now staring down the prospect of redoing my steering system I thought it wise to pause for a bit and make sure there is nothing else I would change at the same time. The drivetrain is the part that I have questioned more in the past year than just about anything else. I have to put in rack and pinion and build a massive tunnel to fit the ecotec. With that said I now have a giant engine bay with a 2.4l 4 cylinder. The other options out there may be too good to pass up. Option 1: stay the course, lighter but also lower horsepower Option 2: pick up a junk yard LS and a th350. Not the most engaging to drive but the most HP for the least amount of money. This would simplify my coolant plumbing and driveshaft. Option 3: 5.0L/T5 this is the cheapest option due to having friends with left over parts. Probably as heavy as the LS and only ~40hp more than the current ecotec. This would at least be a manual trans.
  8. maikell77

    It has a face!

    It was nice this weekend to tackle some smaller jobs that result in a bigger change in the garage art. The first little task was installing the rear glass. It wasn't that bad, but then again I still haven't done the lock strip. The rope trick really does work. Word of caution you will need more than 15 feet to have a good handle to start. Also all the comments about get it centered first...yeah listen to them, really eases the process. Had to support my friends car club. After all it started after I drug this thing home with him telling me to walk 3 years ago... I then cleaned up, sand and masked to flat black the nose. I also cleaned up the headlight buckets. I must confess the car is the same color as masking tape...so I may have missed a little corner... All in I'm pretty happy with the grill-less nose. I would love some good condition round grills. The problem is they are so much $. I like this look and think it adds a little to the "outlaw" look of this '02. Stay tuned for our next installment, more glass install, followed by removing the engine...again. Hopefully over the 4th I will get the steering set screws drilled and locktited, clutch installed, and the engine in for the LAST TIME, before vroom vroom.
  9. Not the biggest of updates. It seems the last 20% is the longest. I have been trying to tie up loose end. I have run fuel supply and return lines. I upgraded to 3/8" to support future boost.... I have also finally finished the rear subframe rebuild. All new brakes, lines, bushings and a fresh coat of paint. I was also able to track down a match set of miata seat for a little bit of nothing. Now I have the drivers seat on a track. the passenger side is fixed. And the highlight of the day, getting the car wheeled out into the sun. I am much happier with the stance of the car than I thought I would be.
  10. Not the most productive of weekends. I pretty much just made some new interior panels. the car when I bought it had been sitting in a field in Houston for a LONG time. Most of the interior panels were covered in black mold. So most of that went by the way side. The goal for this car has been extremely lightweight. With that said I still wanted a some what finished looking interior. I had a roll of grey carpet left over from another project. I then just went to the local home depot and got some 2.7 mm birch plywood. I cut the panels to fit and covered with the carpet. The fit turned out pretty good, and honestly hard to complain for about $20 in material and few hours labor. Next up is patching what was left of the dash pad. I have now gone through 3 rounds of padded dash filler and sanding. Hopefully when all is said and done the dash turns out looking decent. These shorter duration projects that are visible are helping get some wind back in my sails. It's been 3+ long years of working on this car. I've never driven it, it has been incredibly hard not to lose all motivation. It will be worth it when I get to drive it! That's what I keep telling myself at least. steering wheel will get replaces at some point in the future. Passenger door crank screw is stripped out. Any ideas how to salvage? Seating position is moved way back. Entry and exit are surprisingly not bad. I will need to extend the shifter up about 6-9" but that should put it right off the steering wheel and keep my elbow high enough not to hit the park/drift brake.
  11. I have made good progress. The seam sealer has set up and finally mounted the E-brake. I ended up going with a hydraulic brake for easier swap to discs in the future. All the old metal then got a good coating of implement paint flat black. Everything instantly looked better. Finally underneath all but the tunnel was coated. It was quite the feeling to see the underside look this nice after 3+ years of rust repair. This has been a journey I thought would never end.
  12. The primer finally dried so I was able to seal everything up. Michigan does not want to give up on winter yet. I sealed all of the patches and plugged holes on the car. I probably went over kill and sealed inside and out. I want a nice non-fumey, dry car..... Then I got cracking on the rear drums. I picked up some backing plates off a 1980 320I, They are so much bigger than the stock drums. At some point i will upgrade to discs. Just hard to argue with a $200 near rear brake setup. Here's to more productive weekends in the garage.
  13. The car has been listed for sale off and on for a few weeks. I might still sell it but i have to say looking back at how far i've come, I might just have to see this through. I have tried to take a different approach and just block off an hour or two a day to do a little. I have not made huge progress, but I have moved forward. I should be seam sealing tonight and paint the passenger side floor pan. For the first time since i've owned this car the floors are solid enough a 10mm socket won't fall to the ground. Low bar I know but considering how stalled I was just a month ago, big news. In other news the Fiat 500 Abarth has now been kicked outside. My garage is now in full on get stuff done mode. Once the interior is painted it's on to glass. Speaking of which I am thinking of just going with lexan for the quarter glass. I might add a plexiglass extractor to keep the air flowing. Anyone out there done something similar?
  14. I have been convinced to toy with selling it again. I hope I can make some progress this weekend and get back into it.
  15. Not sold, but i'm keeping it....I'll just keep plugging away for the for see-able future. Hopefully someday I get to Drive this thing.
  16. I hope this is just some moments of doubt and I can get a second wind.....
  17. The ecotec fit well....The matching transmission was not so easy. it is much much larger than stock BMW trans.
  18. It is with much regret that I am putting up for sale my BMW 2002. I just don't have the time anymore to realistically work on it and finish it. Hoping someone can get it across the goaline and enjoy it. I have linked the build blog and my local craigslist. https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/d/1969-bmw-2002-track-project/6481723708.html https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/193-2404ti-build/ IMG_5905.mov
  19. 3/4" front and 7/8" rear is what Wilwood recommended and I purchased. They seemed to be confident that that would be close to balanced as is.
  20. Yes sir, it's the LE5 from the solstice/sky, and just about any gm car from the early 2000's. The transmission is from a Saturn sky and the engine came from a Pontiac G6.
  21. All along with this project there were a few things I knew would be the big issues to get over. 1. Engine and transmission install – it fits and it’s mounted 2. Adapting the new transmission to the BMW dif, this is next…. 3. Building a new pedal assembly – done over break 4. Fixing the rust and bodywork – done over break 5. Rewiring the whole call – TBD 6. Making the rack and pinion steering work – finally finished over break As you can see the list is getting shorter. The bodywork turned out much worse than I had hoped. I did not spend as much time blocking the car as I should have. At some point I may go back and redo the bodywork and paint to have a nicer looking car. At this point it’s ok from a distance, and for its intended purpose its fine. This car was rotten and not worth saving. As bad as my bodywork is, it’s still miles better than what I found. All that to say, here it is, on all four wheels in the sun! Next up was the pedal assembly. I worked with Wilwood to size the master cylinders to work with the 240 front calipers and the 320i rear drums. I will also be running a Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch. The other interesting part I had to add was the electronic throttle pedal to work with the LE5. The pedal is typically firewall mounted and top hinged. I flipped it and mounted it to a subframe with the other two pedals. I have them all hinged at the same point and in the same plane. I may need to tweak the throttle to prevent miss-steps. The steering was the next big challenge. The size of the engine dictated the change to a 320 rack. Further complicating matters was my choice to run the electronic power steering column. This arrangement required 3 U-joints! After getting everything installed with a bearing on the long shaft it seems to work well. I have however, discovered that the power assist is not needed. This means I may got to a manual column or shift the steering attachment points to tighten the turning radius. I fear as is it will be larger than a suburban. Finally, I built up a bracket to support my hand me down electric fan from my new radiator. The whole assembly is removed as one. It should help with serviceability down the road. The goal is to be road worthy this August. I am hoping to drive the 5 miles each way to make a portion of the Woodward Dream Cruise this year.
  22. I haven't made as much progress as I would have liked, but some of the bigger questions are starting to get answered. When I first started the swap I knew there would be a few big hurdles, Rust, fitting the engine and trans, connecting the steering, and completing the driveline. I will this next weekend cut out and replace the last rust in the door. As usual for this car about 1/4" of bondo had to be removed. Thankfully after that was removed not a ton of rust was found. I will just replace the area around the corners to make the patches smaller. Now on to steering....There are two sets of OEM hardware that I have worried about connecting to. First is the Steering rack from a BMW 320i (1980). I finally found a 17mm-51 spine u-joint that fits Perfectly! As you can see I will have to add a kink in the joint to clear the starter. it does clear so that's a win. Next week the rest of my steering components will come in. I hope to get that as well as the passenger side tunnel complete over my Christmas holiday. The misses is already informed that my 2018 new years resolution is to drive this car. It might have no glass or weatherstripping but I will drive it next year.
  23. Straight pipes, the wife told me should could hear from the other room...Might have have to add a muffler.
  24. It’s been quite a while since I last really dug into the BMW 2402tii. My wife ended up going back to school so most of my dreams of getting the car road worthy this year are out the window. I most likely will not be able to afford the big pieces for quite some time. That was a bit like knocking the wind out of my sails. I have decided to plug on anyway. I will try to get a solid foundation. I should still be able to get the steering and plumbing worked out. As well as clean, sort, and seal the underside of the car. I might even go back and redo some of my previous work. With a project like this one as my first I know that my skill has improved, from non-existent to not too terrible. Enough babbling, on to the updates! 1. I found a steering column! I found a link through a mustang forum that a GM electric power steering column could be retro fit. The assist is built into the column so it can be turned up, down, or off. It is controlled by a potentiometer kit that you can get from Ebay for ~$50. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/670865-anyone-want-100-electric-power-steering-here-you-go.html 2. I have shifted the driving position rearward to help with leg room and weight bias. I never had an intention to put the back seat back in 3. I have built mounts to use NA Miata seats. The current ones I have are from pull-apart and being that this is Michigan, they are extremely rusty. Still for $23 they are good enough for mock up. 4. The AR5 transmission that matches my Ecotec is HUGE. I’ve had to considerably enlarge the tunnel. I’ve been putting off this sheet metal job for the better part of a year. I finally tackled the driver side and closed it all in. 5. I primed and seam sealed the whole side. This is most likely the floor section I would be most likely to redo. 6. Finally I covered it all with bed liner and threw everything back together. Of course the next thing I did was sit in the car make engine noises and pretend to shift. I do need to get the car on the ground and see just how bad ingress/egress is.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.