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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


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About maikell77

  • Birthday February 10

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Detroit, MI
  • Interests Track days, autox, turbos, diesel, welding, carpentry
  1. 3/4" front and 7/8" rear is what Wilwood recommended and I purchased. They seemed to be confident that that would be close to balanced as is.
  2. header, civic radiator, and more!

    Yes sir, it's the LE5 from the solstice/sky, and just about any gm car from the early 2000's. The transmission is from a Saturn sky and the engine came from a Pontiac G6.
  3. All along with this project there were a few things I knew would be the big issues to get over. 1. Engine and transmission install – it fits and it’s mounted 2. Adapting the new transmission to the BMW dif, this is next…. 3. Building a new pedal assembly – done over break 4. Fixing the rust and bodywork – done over break 5. Rewiring the whole call – TBD 6. Making the rack and pinion steering work – finally finished over break As you can see the list is getting shorter. The bodywork turned out much worse than I had hoped. I did not spend as much time blocking the car as I should have. At some point I may go back and redo the bodywork and paint to have a nicer looking car. At this point it’s ok from a distance, and for its intended purpose its fine. This car was rotten and not worth saving. As bad as my bodywork is, it’s still miles better than what I found. All that to say, here it is, on all four wheels in the sun! Next up was the pedal assembly. I worked with Wilwood to size the master cylinders to work with the 240 front calipers and the 320i rear drums. I will also be running a Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch. The other interesting part I had to add was the electronic throttle pedal to work with the LE5. The pedal is typically firewall mounted and top hinged. I flipped it and mounted it to a subframe with the other two pedals. I have them all hinged at the same point and in the same plane. I may need to tweak the throttle to prevent miss-steps. The steering was the next big challenge. The size of the engine dictated the change to a 320 rack. Further complicating matters was my choice to run the electronic power steering column. This arrangement required 3 U-joints! After getting everything installed with a bearing on the long shaft it seems to work well. I have however, discovered that the power assist is not needed. This means I may got to a manual column or shift the steering attachment points to tighten the turning radius. I fear as is it will be larger than a suburban. Finally, I built up a bracket to support my hand me down electric fan from my new radiator. The whole assembly is removed as one. It should help with serviceability down the road. The goal is to be road worthy this August. I am hoping to drive the 5 miles each way to make a portion of the Woodward Dream Cruise this year.
  4. Slight progress update

    I haven't made as much progress as I would have liked, but some of the bigger questions are starting to get answered. When I first started the swap I knew there would be a few big hurdles, Rust, fitting the engine and trans, connecting the steering, and completing the driveline. I will this next weekend cut out and replace the last rust in the door. As usual for this car about 1/4" of bondo had to be removed. Thankfully after that was removed not a ton of rust was found. I will just replace the area around the corners to make the patches smaller. Now on to steering....There are two sets of OEM hardware that I have worried about connecting to. First is the Steering rack from a BMW 320i (1980). I finally found a 17mm-51 spine u-joint that fits Perfectly! As you can see I will have to add a kink in the joint to clear the starter. it does clear so that's a win. Next week the rest of my steering components will come in. I hope to get that as well as the passenger side tunnel complete over my Christmas holiday. The misses is already informed that my 2018 new years resolution is to drive this car. It might have no glass or weatherstripping but I will drive it next year.
  5. EPAS Conversion, Seat Mounting, Seam Sealing

    Straight pipes, the wife told me should could hear from the other room...Might have have to add a muffler.
  6. It’s been quite a while since I last really dug into the BMW 2402tii. My wife ended up going back to school so most of my dreams of getting the car road worthy this year are out the window. I most likely will not be able to afford the big pieces for quite some time. That was a bit like knocking the wind out of my sails. I have decided to plug on anyway. I will try to get a solid foundation. I should still be able to get the steering and plumbing worked out. As well as clean, sort, and seal the underside of the car. I might even go back and redo some of my previous work. With a project like this one as my first I know that my skill has improved, from non-existent to not too terrible. Enough babbling, on to the updates! 1. I found a steering column! I found a link through a mustang forum that a GM electric power steering column could be retro fit. The assist is built into the column so it can be turned up, down, or off. It is controlled by a potentiometer kit that you can get from Ebay for ~$50. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/670865-anyone-want-100-electric-power-steering-here-you-go.html 2. I have shifted the driving position rearward to help with leg room and weight bias. I never had an intention to put the back seat back in 3. I have built mounts to use NA Miata seats. The current ones I have are from pull-apart and being that this is Michigan, they are extremely rusty. Still for $23 they are good enough for mock up. 4. The AR5 transmission that matches my Ecotec is HUGE. I’ve had to considerably enlarge the tunnel. I’ve been putting off this sheet metal job for the better part of a year. I finally tackled the driver side and closed it all in. 5. I primed and seam sealed the whole side. This is most likely the floor section I would be most likely to redo. 6. Finally I covered it all with bed liner and threw everything back together. Of course the next thing I did was sit in the car make engine noises and pretend to shift. I do need to get the car on the ground and see just how bad ingress/egress is.
  7. Nut and Bolt Restoration....Literally

    Nice work! I'll vouch that the replacement hardware while functional, looks different.
  8. maikell77

  9. header, civic radiator, and more!

    I picked up a radiator for a 1994 Honda civic 1.6l (auto with air conditioning) for <$35 shipped on Rockauto. It filled the stock radiator opening almost completely. We will have to wait and see if this radiator is large enough to cool the 2.4l that is now in the car. I am hopeful the auto and ac options added to the cooling capacity. The description of this one did also say that it was a few mm thicker to offer additional cooling. I will also add the Civic electric fan as well. The reason I chose this route is purely cost based. This will let me get up and running sooner because it costs less. More than likely I will have to upgrade in the future. the radiator is mounted to the car using the boxed section behind the air dam. I will add a pair of grommets to act as isolators between the chassis and radiator. The top is held in place with a simple bracket tying the radiator to the core support. The next project of the weekend was building an exhaust manifold. I did not want to use the stock one, purely from an ascetic point of view. I have also always wanted to give header fab a try. surprisingly it wasn't too bad. The most difficult part was getting enough heat into the flange without burning through the tube. Cutting and welding the tube sections together was not bad at all. Having a good saw to make straight cuts was crucial. I started with a generic collector that had the four primaries and a 45 degree bend. I then picked up a 3/8" flange and a pile of 1-5/8" u-bends. The all in for this header was around $175. Not bad, but it will end up wall art when I add a turbo down the road. Had to throw in a few beauty shots now that the car is starting to get more together. The 1600-2 is a 69 built in 68. The 68 Texas plate I had lying around looked much more classic than the 69 (just looks like a worn out plate).
  10. Like most of my car, the rust I saw was just the tip of the Iceberg. It took another near full day to strip off the past two paint jobs and rust. After getting down to bare metal the bottom three inches were pretty much gone. After getting to that point I hit the whole thing in a light coat of self etching primer. Then it was on to using the lower door skin from Wallothnech. First of all they do fit pretty well. Removing the old one was as simple as marking the outline of the new panel, cutting with the cut off wheel. Then around the edges with a flap wheel and the skin peels right off. The tabs on the back do have a few spot welds. Then I cleaned up the panels and hit the whole inner structure with rust reformer. The new panel is straight, doesn't really have the slight curve. After a little finesse with the hammer and dolly and liberal use of clamps it was in place. Then about a million tack welds later it was in. The last part was folding over the tabs. I don't know if this is truly the correct method, but it made sense to me. Lessons for anyone wanting to do the same.... 1. the panel as is places the seam within 1/2" of the lower character line. If you have good enough metal I would cut the new panel down to stay a little further from that joint. 2. Really take your time welding. I jumped all over the panel, but still managed to get a warp in there. 3. folding the tab on the back is a bit tiring. 4. Be careful folding the tab over. I was a little sloppy with the dolly and it really complicated matters. Finally getting the blue paint on resulted in a better outcome that the rest of the car. A smaller panel and better dust control resulted in a better job.
  11. take it all off

    That's great news! I would still check inside the frame rails and shock towers if you can. Much better to get it all done now and have a solid safe car. For bondo removal...It's no fun but the wire wheel on a grinder is my preferred method. It takes a while and makes a mess. The main plus it does little to damage the metal below. In many case the bondo was just there to blend in some outward dents. In other words 90% covered in bondo but somehow 80+% straight sheetmetal underneath.
  12. take it all off

    Well.... 1. mine was rear ended and had bad rust in the rear wheel arches. Patch panels were just brazed over the rust and a ton of bondo covering it, Looks like you are down to metal there to bullet dodged. 2. under the back windows there was a ton of bondo that had held moisture and cause the upper quarter to be full of pin holes. Looks like you're good on that one. 3. Water had pooled in it so both rockers had rusted from the inside out. I would recommend getting or borrowing a bore-o-scope to check the inside. 4. the front driver side frame rail was GONE, like completely rusted. It was undercoat and the force.... 5. The area under both windshield and rear window was mostly rust. Two resprays in which they just bondo'ed over the windshield seals and painted. Trapping water and just going over untreated rust. Long story short my car was covered in 0.125-0.4" of bondo, everywhere. Which means my good deal has been the most expensive learning experience. I hope you don't find all those surprises.
  13. take it all off

    looks like you're making good progress. hopefully you don't find more surprises like I did with my 1600-2.....
  14. Christmas Break Progress

    Not a ton of heavy progress, but the car is back on it's own wheels with new bushings, freshly painted sub-frames. I've also reworked the hood and trunk in flat black. They are both super rusty and rough. They will be replaced with fiberglass in the near future.