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  1. I'm late to the game, but I'll offer a sale on the tailored Fender Aprons (2002, e30, e28, & e24). These aprons fit the wide fenders on M cars too. FREE Shipping and 10 bucks off thru next friday - Total of 210 shipped, or 205 shipped for e30. Photos and more information here >>> http://bmwworkshopaprons.blogspot.com/ Send me a PM to order or with any questions! Jake
  2. Thanks everyone, got it in using the above method. It also helped a lot to have the struts in place and bolted down loosely - which for whatever reason I didn’t do before. good news, engine and subframe are bolted In! Thanks y’all!
  3. That makes an incredible amount of sense, I can't believe I didn't think of it. Amazing how tunnel vision'd you can get on a project/problem. @tinkwithanr also suggested measuring the subframe against the old one for a similar reason. To my knowledge neither car has been hit - but you never know with old cars. hoping everything is good to go there.
  4. I'm in the process of reinstalling the front subframe and its not going according to plan. What 'pro tips' do you have for getting this bastard bolted in? Some Background: Car is a 76, subframe is a '73, and was rebuilt >10k miles/5yrs ago Subframe now holds a m20 I pulled the subframe last year and had similar trouble reattaching it to the 73 after i pulled the engine. Even when i could see the bolt holes clearly, i couldn't get a bolt to bite. Also had trouble getting all holes lined up at the same time. Ended up solving that problem by fabricating guide pins out of 2.5" bolts. Using those, got it on no problem. Unfortunately for me, the guide pins are binding this go round. not sure if they're just bent a little, or if the additional weight of an engine installed is causing the trouble. I've removed the guide pins, and can get the driver side side lined up pretty good, but have been unable to get a bolt started at all. i'm struggling with getting both sides lined up, front to back and side to side. the engine/subframe combo is sitting on a Harbor freight 1k# hydraulic table and the car is on a two post lift. Its a pretty ideal situation, but still causing headaches I've been around these cars for awhile, and have successfully installed a couple rebuilt subframes, but these last two attempts have me pulling out my hair. So, What should i do to get this thing in? What are your pro tips and best practices?
  5. bump. Been dragging my feet about trying to sell this project, but it does need to move on to the next caretaker. If you're interested in building a 1600/2002, this will save you months of time in your build process. As a bonus, the car comes with a pint of glasurit 90 line ($$$) in Derby. I bought it to have some touch up done and the remainder will go with the car.
  6. I had a lot of fun watching the Nevada 1600 project bidding on BAT this afternoon. What did y'all think - looks like a great start to a project. Is the buyer or any of the bidders on here? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-bmw-1600-3/
  7. Stock springs, in good shape, pulled from a 76 2002. FREE for local pickup. will ship for actual shipping cost and if you order me a pizza.
  8. May 67 build Silver Dollar Cluster with a Tachometer! All each section shares a 5.67 date stamp & I'd wager that it's never been apart. Its in beautiful original shape and would be great for a driver, but would restore wonderfully if that's what you're after. Its been awhile since I've run this cluster, but everything worked as it should. That being said, Sold as is, etc etc. I've had this hanging around for awhile and I've finally realized that I should pass it on instead of letting it sit on a shelf. I've been watching and collecting early parts & 6v stuff for the past 6-7 years and I've never seen another one of these come up for sale. Asking 250 + Shipping (and insurance if you want it). As always, If you feel like its not priced fairly, make me an offer - I'm most interested in it getting used.
  9. All prices + Shipping. Everything must go, if you feel like prices aren't fair, please make an offer. Part #'s listed so you can verify fitment. See below for photos. Sold items are strike thru 6v Voltage Regulator - $75 - Used - pulled from a running car and has been in storage as a spare for a few years. I'd trust it (i mean, I did carry it as a spare) but of course all this stuff is sold as is. Bosch Ignition Rotor - $5 - Used - yeah a used rotor, but looks like it had an easy life to me. I carried it as a spare just in case and now i'd like to pass that torch to you. Box says '1600' in pencil on the top, but I'll bet it would be happy in 2002 distributors too. Bosch Condenser 02 031 - $5/ea - New - Made in germany, new! Pretty sure this is for a 1600. - I have two of these! Bosch Points 01 012 - $10 - New - Its always the freaking points. Have a spare. According to the back of the package, these are for a 520 4cyl or a T U R B O. Bosch Points 01 027 - $5 - New - Its always the freaking points. Have a spare. Still in a big bag from Bav Auto (RIP, Pour one out), says for "2002 73, 74, Tii 74". Probably fits a lot of other stuff too. Bosch 12v Voltage Regulator 0 190 600 016 //(also has 30-048 hand written in pen)- $22 - Used/maybe NOS?/I'm gonna say used - Its in a Bosch box and was hanging out with a NOS unit -, but looks like it may have spent time life in a car. Minimum a long hard life in storage. Your guess is as good as mine, but I'm calling it Used to be safe. Bosch 12v Voltage Regulator 0 190 601 006 //(30 051) - $35 - NOS - This thing is a Beaut, Shiny and new in box, still has a sticker from Bavarian Autosport (RIP) on the side. Bosch Points 01 011 - $5 - New - Its always the freaking points. Have a spare Bosch Points 02 006 (???) - $1 - Used/New - Box has '1600' written in pencil on the top, inside are TWO sets of points. One set is definitely used, the other looks new, but has been hanging out with a rough crowd. Buy these, because A) they're a dollar and B ) ITS ALWAYS THE FREAKING POINTS Bosch Rotor 04 008 / 1 234 322 088 - $12 - NEW - Shiny shiny shiny Bosch Distributor cap 1 235 522 058 / 03 012 - $20 - NEW, Shiny, Should fit 1600/2002 from 68-74 iirc
  10. I Wish I’d realized the interest in these - They’re hella cool, but didn’t think they’d have wide appeal. Sold in 2 minutes and have had 4 people email me on them. Someone got a great deal
  11. Selling off these super rad NOS VDO "Top" cockpit gauges. Includes: Voltmeter 8-16v (PN 332 004) Pressure (Lbs/Sq inch) 0-70 (pn 350 008) Temp (Fahrenheit) 120-300 They're in NOS condition with original wiring and diagrams. All the cool of traditional VDO cockpit gauges amplified by these rad monopods to stick them wherever you want. $115 bucks shipped, including paypal fees - OBO
  12. Shallow side grilles in pretty good shape. At some point the black anodized slats were removed, but the glue remains. Would be great candidates to reinstall slat covers or re,I’ve the glue and run shiny. 230+actual shipping OBO
  13. @eastsidebimmer - this looks similar to your issue, yeah?
  14. The only engine swap I would recommend would be another m10. If you can find a good used m10, it could buy you some time. M20/m42/whatever will be way way more expensive. definitely agree with the others above- take it somewhere who can accurately diagnose and quote you what it would cost to fix/rebuild whatever. They could also quote what it would cost to remove and replace only too so you have your options.
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