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Dev02

Solex
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Everything posted by Dev02

  1. Looking for some inexpensive seat parts for late model seats. Mostly looking for the side covers, upper and lower, and the little springs. Not remotely looking for show quality. Can be cracked or broken.
  2. I thought it WAS a vapor barrier! Just looked it up and you are absolutely correct. Thanks!
  3. It was suggested to me to use house wrap. Seems like a good idea. Specifically made to repel water and wick it to the bottom of the sheet (if installed correctly). Since I was in the middle of wrapping my new garage I just put some aside for this.
  4. I used a long thin eraser, and with the engine idling I lightly ran it down the inspection hole. I was a little worried it would get pulled out of my hand, by magic stop the flywheel from rotating, and the entire car would blow up in my face... but that didn't happen. Cleaned up the flywheel very nice. I then painted the front pulley and have timed off of that since.
  5. I have that setup and love it. But I will say the biggest change to my ride came from changing out all the bushings, which I got from Blunt in a kit.
  6. Ok, so you got me spending a few hours last night watching this whole series (only to discover the car is not finished yet!). It really is a shame the guy doesn't have better fabrication skills, damn! Now I want an automated front-of-car flipper-up thingy...
  7. Very sorry for your loss Lenny.As others have said I never met your father, but he certainly helped me with a number of his posts.
  8. "This BMW was built properly from the ground up" ...Um...
  9. Great, now I have a weakness for Alpines. Thanks (agree with danco_, those things rock!)
  10. - 1971 2002 (base) , 4spd manual, LSD - Ireland Engineering “tii” distributor w/electronic ignition - Blaster II Coil (no ballast resistor) - MSD Box with Rev Limiter - Custom 8mm wires - NGK BP6ES plugs, gapped at ? (can't remember) - Weber 38/38 elec choke - Custom Header - 91 octane
  11. Damn. I like how you did this with the risers and want to copy it (with the Kingsborne tube I already have). Do you know the size of the bols? I believe they are 10mm... If so I'll just look for risers that size.
  12. Cholewski, Esty is right about the carb not being rocket science and very doable. I'd highly recommend getting the Weber book and reading through it. I think I got mine through Amazon. It's helpful but not required. I would say taking tons of pictures IS required though. I always have something I can't remember how it goes back together and have to look at the pictures. My experience is that a carb will work out of the box but 'works better' after jetting and playing. But if you have a good starting point for jets (there's a good 32/36 prescription for jets on here, and jets are around $5 each) and you do a rebuild kit, you should be very happy for now, and can always chase power later as you get more comfortable with the car. While rebuilding you can check each jet as you remove them and see if you need new ones (I like new jets with a rebuild, but I'm really anal). Get a big jug of carb cleaner from your auto parts store, a disposable tin tray and soak all the parts you don't replace from the kit. If you're not in a rush and want to get into fixing things on your car the carb rebuild is a great place to start. One last question: did your shop give you a reason they thought you should replace the carb instead of rebuilding it? Maybe the butterflies have broken off (I had that happen)? Or something else that you can't fix with a rebuild kit?
  13. ^ this. I would second the suggestion of fixing your current one. You have to take the carb off to put a new one on anyway (or someone does) and the rebuild kits are not spendy and are very easy to do.Take the thing off, clean the HELL out of it, and change all the parts in the kit. And to answer your other question: it was a vague question and I'm not sure which part confuses you. So here is just the basics between the 32/36 and the 38/38, no condescension meant at all... The 32/36 is a 2-barrel progressive carb (when stock) that has a 32 barrel (opening) on one side and a 36 barrel (opening) on the other. The barrels determine the amount of air that gets fed into the engine, and you jet the carb to feed fuel based on how much air can flow through it and what your engine needs. When you press the gas pedal (loud pedal) the 32 starts to open and feed air-gas to the engine, and the 36 side stays shut. As you press more on the gas pedal the 32 opens all the way and the 36 starts to open; this is why it is "progressive." At full throttle both are open. The 38/38 is a synchronous 2-barrel carb with a 38 barrel (opening) on each side. When you start stepping on the gas pedal both barrels start opening and feeding air-gas to the engine. This is why it is "synchronous." As with the 32/36 when you are at full throttle both barrels are open. If you smash on the gas pedal with the 32/36 you will open both sides and be 'all in' and giving it all the air-gas the carb can do, so you have both barrels going right away. Similarly with the 38/38 if you smash the loud pedal you have both of those 'all in' as well. So if you are an aggressive driver the 32/36 is still a fun carb and not THAT different from the 38. But the 32/36, being progressive and having smaller barrels, tends to be more economical; and the 38/38 tends to be more sporty. I say 'tends' because a lot of stuff depends on other things, not the least of which is that they are tuned correctly. As I said at the beginning I wasn't sure which part about the carbs you didn't understand so if you knew all of this already I apologize for the long write-up, I like listening to my own voice in my head while I write If you decide to buy a new carb I'd strongly suggest calling one of the vendors familiar with Webers and 02's (Ireland Engineering, Pierce Manifolds, Blunttech, etc.) and talk through what you need with them. They all sell real Webers and are a huge wealth of information and are super helpful.
  14. Any chance you timed the car when you changed the wires, then forgot to tighten things back down and the timing got knocked off?
  15. I had to use a different rod also (I used the one from IE). For mine (Weber from Pierce manifolds) the 38/38 needed to turn to opposite way as the 32/36. The IE rod made it do that. Esty, yours just worked as is? On 3 of them? I wonder if I was just looking at it wrong. Or is it maybe the carb you used?
  16. If you have no cranking I would suspect power to the starter itself. Ignition might keep it from firing, but should not effect whether the starter turns over. Have you checked power going to your starter? That the lead is delivering power, and that the ground is, well, grounded? If there IS power, and it is grounded, then I'd suspect either your starter is bad, or somehow stuck, like maybe it engaged the ring wrong and has not disengaged (I had it happen on another car). Just my thoughts based on your descriptions.
  17. I think it might have been a mini-Jedi with a very small light saber... Seriously though I'm with Simeon, I think it has been cutting from the inside out for a long time. VERY weird. On a related note I have the IE Dizzy and it's been working great for me. The only issue I had was the O-ring not fitting correctly. I ended up using the one off my old Dizzy. i have heard they fixed this issue though.
  18. Be careful. I have nearly the same wheels as you (195 15) and with H&R lowering springs I had to roll my fenders. Obviously 'your mileage may vary' but it's something to keep in mind.
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