^ this.
I would second the suggestion of fixing your current one. You have to take the carb off to put a new one on anyway (or someone does) and the rebuild kits are not spendy and are very easy to do.Take the thing off, clean the HELL out of it, and change all the parts in the kit.
And to answer your other question: it was a vague question and I'm not sure which part confuses you. So here is just the basics between the 32/36 and the 38/38, no condescension meant at all...
The 32/36 is a 2-barrel progressive carb (when stock) that has a 32 barrel (opening) on one side and a 36 barrel (opening) on the other. The barrels determine the amount of air that gets fed into the engine, and you jet the carb to feed fuel based on how much air can flow through it and what your engine needs. When you press the gas pedal (loud pedal) the 32 starts to open and feed air-gas to the engine, and the 36 side stays shut. As you press more on the gas pedal the 32 opens all the way and the 36 starts to open; this is why it is "progressive." At full throttle both are open.
The 38/38 is a synchronous 2-barrel carb with a 38 barrel (opening) on each side. When you start stepping on the gas pedal both barrels start opening and feeding air-gas to the engine. This is why it is "synchronous." As with the 32/36 when you are at full throttle both barrels are open.
If you smash on the gas pedal with the 32/36 you will open both sides and be 'all in' and giving it all the air-gas the carb can do, so you have both barrels going right away. Similarly with the 38/38 if you smash the loud pedal you have both of those 'all in' as well. So if you are an aggressive driver the 32/36 is still a fun carb and not THAT different from the 38. But the 32/36, being progressive and having smaller barrels, tends to be more economical; and the 38/38 tends to be more sporty. I say 'tends' because a lot of stuff depends on other things, not the least of which is that they are tuned correctly.
As I said at the beginning I wasn't sure which part about the carbs you didn't understand so if you knew all of this already I apologize for the long write-up, I like listening to my own voice in my head while I write
If you decide to buy a new carb I'd strongly suggest calling one of the vendors familiar with Webers and 02's (Ireland Engineering, Pierce Manifolds, Blunttech, etc.) and talk through what you need with them. They all sell real Webers and are a huge wealth of information and are super helpful.