Ringworm02

How many pounds do the intake runners need? I have been torquing them to 20lbs... Another question: should I be using wave washers rather than flat washers?

I have not attempted to flatten the holes. Pan flange is pretty good:

Need clarification: Do I apply sealant to both sides of gasket? Or do I install the gasket without sealant? My preparation: Pan is off engine. Apply sealant to gaps at front and rear covers. Pan has been stripped and cleaned thoroughly, especially flange. Block flange has been cleaned. Pan bolts cleaned. New gasket. Bottle of Curil K2. Torque to 8 lbs.

My August '72 tii has the panels.

Take mintgrun's puller and grind (with a dremel) away some of the material so it fits around the joint. Use some wire to secure the puller to the drag link. Use a long cheater bar to rotate the nut, so you're away from the violent release of the joint (hence the wire retainers).Don't use a hammer, you'll damage the threads on your drag link, and then you'll not be able to get the crown nut back on.

I bought my box from Blunt, takes around 3 weeks for delivery. I now have three boxes, and they all probably work. Once I repair my alternator wires at the plug, I will try them out: Part Number: 61311354686 Price: $278.80 Quantity: 1 Item(s) Subtotal: $278.80 Shipping & Handling: $11.95 ----- Total before tax: $290.75 ----- Total for this Shipment: $290.75

It's not the CSV wiring harness that a mystery to me, its where the black wire goes towards the front. Red line to fuse box hole, yellow to firewall, and the mystery purple line. How does the black wire connect into that harness?

This was the insulated terminal I was referring to, its not actually orange, but has discolored over time:

Thanks for the help. I think I have concluded that I have a dead wire, and must begin dissecting the wire bundle that goes to the spade terminal at the starter. I will start at the end and hope I find some evidence of damage close to end, because the insulation is in really good condition and I'd hate to destroy it. Do you agree that this is probably the culprit (wire bundle going to the starter)? Also, I do not have any black/white wires going to the ignition. Only, red, green, black, and yellow. I do have continuity from ignition to starter when the key is at start. I checked the orange insulated connector and the wire was pristine.

Sven, Yes the box is difficult to remove. Take a flat bladed screw driver and gently push on the ridge of the socket on both sides until it slides off. I made 6 short wires to go in between the box and the plug temporarily for testing. It also makes it easy to remove the box form the plug. Obviously, these wires are removed when testing is complete. You can also add intermediate spade connectors on two of the wires for the SV and TH terminals so you can do the tests outlined in the KF manual.

I have been trying to get my cold start system to work and have not been successful. I have a suspicion that the problem lies with the black wire that is tied into the ignition, because the coolant sensor and time box are new and the injector works with direct power from the battery. I also have power to the green/white wire from the fuse box via test lamp (ignition at the drive (farht) position). The sensor and the start injector both have continuity back to the socket plug. Fuses are good, and ground is solid at the accelerator linkage. The wiring harness for the cold start system is stock and none of the connections have been changed. So, the first mistake I may be making is assuming the black wire will be powered with the ignition at start. This present a few questions: 1. Where does the black go once it is tied into the main wiring harness? The wiring diagram doesn’t clearly show where it goes. 2. Does the ignition at start power the black wire? 3. Could it be my ignition barrel, even though it powers the starter with no hesitation? I have a spare ignition barrel, should I try replacing it? 4. What wire on the ignition barrel is tied into the black wire? 5. Why aren’t I getting power to the black wire? Lastly, I wanted to go through my understanding of the system: The ignition powers the black wire initiating the timer in the box activating the injector valve. Once the key is released to drive, the green/wire continues to power the injector for the whatever time period was indicated by the coolant senor. Seems simple enough.

Try a motorcycle shop.

Be sure to replace your rear "soft" brake lines before you reinstall your rear subframe.

I needed to replace mine recently and was surprised to find it for $150, which is a good price: http://www.rogerstii.com/bmw-2002-heater-water-valve-71-up/

I stand by my opinion. Spend a little more for a decent example, skip this one.

Forget about it. There will be no profit after a resto. The missing pieces would nickle and dime you to death.

Save your money for a better example. There are so many things wrong with this: missing trim, mangled grilles, no dash under panels, missing hood hinge, bet you there is horrible rust under the gas tank, absent strut bearings, on and on. $15K is way too much money. Even $5K is too much. Run...

Don't forget #11:

I always loved the wishful thinking in this offer, $9.75K, yeah right: http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1975-bmw-3.0cs-c-6508.htm

I have a few questions (my model: bluetooth, vacuum option): 1. What about the condenser wire? Is that unused now? 2. I have a '72 tii without vacuum advance. Should I use the vacuum advance now? I hear it may help with partial throttle response, etc.

See picture

Buy some wire twisting pliers, say at a motorcycle shop. The pliers make it easier to do. I had to practice many times to learn how to do it, took me 5-7 times before I got the tension and look that I wanted. Also, make sure the wire is tensioned towards the "on" direction of the bolt. I will post a few pictures tomorrow (tools, wire, and finished wire). Install the tension strut first. Do not use a metal hammer to pound on the rod to get it into the front hole. You'll mess up the threads and the nut won't go on. Ask me how I know. Leave the nuts loose at the wishbone and tension strut.

I would install those three nuts (with the holes in them) out of the car and on a bench. The safety wire is much easier to install and make the wire tight with the struts out of the car. Then you take the whole assembly, strut, shock, spring, pitman arm and install it as a unit. Have the lower control arm installed and not attached to the anti-roll bar, so you can flex it down when mating the strut to it. Push the strut up into the fender and match it up to the three holes and then lightly tighten the top nuts to hold it in place. Wait till strut is in the car before you install the brake dust shield and caliper.