billhpeloton

Thanks! That all makes sense. This is a roadable track day car so I don't think it makes sense to eliminate the bracket. It turns out a friend has an extra starter so I should be in good shape. You've all been a big help.

Hi, Probably a stupid question but I tried a couple of different searches and couldn't find it. Need to replace the starter in my '02, which is a creative combination of '72, '76 and aftermarket parts. The starter in the car has a big honker front brace and the face of the starter appears to bolt to that brace. My spare motor, from which I'm scavenging the starter, has no provision for a brace and the starter isn't designed to bolt to one. The brace seems superfluous; it seems like the bell housing bolts should be plenty. Do I need it? The Haynes manual I have only references the configuration with the brace. Thanks! Bill

I have an Excel spreadsheet with costs if that would be useful.

LOL You're right about the "never done' stuff. The car just spent two days at the track (Watkins Glen). See below. Even in the Novice group we were getting our lunch eaten by the E46 M3s and other assorted contemporary hot rods. It looks like 45 DCOEs and a Schrick 304 cam will be the next step. Of course, it was the oldest car in the bunch by about 25 years. It did arouse lots of nostalgia. PO of donor car told us the cage was an AA. No labels; I don't have a clue. I'm sure you're right. We took the engine intact from the donor car and used the Weber downdrafts because we had them. This time we ran it with a 32/36 and it was clearly insufficient. We have a 38/38 that we'll try as an interim step to the side drafts. Couldn't get it to run right before; it turned out to be an ignition problem. Thanks for the words of wisdom on the trunk configuration; it makes sense. I was just being cheap with the wet cell battery.

It's amazing how the costs add up on a project like this. I bought the '72 for 5,000, the '76 donor car for $3,500. With the additional pieces, right now I'm up to about $22,000 but I have a pile of stuff to sell.

Completed (for now) engine compartment. A detailed list of modifications follows: ENGINE: • BMW M10 block with E12 head. • .40mm overbore • 9.5:1 Tii pistons • Balanced • New rod and main bearings • New OEM oil pump • TEP oil pan baffles • Head resurfaced • New exhaust valve guides, rocker arms, shafts • Schrick 292 cam • New timing chain • Weber 38/38 carburetor • Crane XR700 electronic ignition • Pertronix ignitor • Magnecor wires • 320i radiator • Ireland Engineering silicone hose kit • Ireland Engineering electric fan kit • Korman Autoworks remote oil filter • Electric fuel pump and pressure regulator • Stainless catch bottles, front and rear • Battery cutoff switch in trunk TRANSMISSION/DRIVETRAIN: • Four-speed • New clutch • Fabricated "short" shift linkage • New Guibo • Rebuilt limited-slip differential • New transmission and motor mounts SUSPENSION: • All components disassembled, sandblasted, and painted • All new polyurethane bushings inc. transmission and diff mounts • New 22mm sway bars, front and rear • Front: Ground Control coilovers and adjustable camber plates • Rear: 450lb. springs, Bilstein Sport shocks EXHAUST • Header (painted and heat wrapped) • ANSA muffler and tailpipe BRAKING SYSTEM: • Front: Ireland Engineering big brake kit • Rear: Stock drums • New master cylinder • Stainless brake lines WHEELS AND TIRES: • Rota RB silver, 15x7, ET 25 • Yokohama S-Drive, 205/50/R15 BODY/FRAME: • Disassembled to bare body • All rust repaired (only minor issues) • Rough spots and faulty previous work repaired • Fenders cut and welded • Body drilled, rivnuts inserted to mate fenders with flares • Fiberglass “Turbo” flares painted and installed • Front and rear bumpers modified to integrate with fender flares • Bumpers cut, welded, finished • Grill and bumpers painted silver • Body spot primed, sanded and prepped • Professionally painted • Urethane, non-metallic, three color coats • 1994 BMW color Santorini Blue (518) • Rear TEP strut brace with battery relocation kit • Custom front strut brace • Reinforcement plates for roll cage attachment fabricated and welded • All soundproofing and tar removed • Floor pan painted with POR 15 • Trunk painted with grey “splatter” paint • Headliner removed, celing painted with black “splatter” paint • Undercoated • Engine compartment prepped and painted • Roll cage sandblasted and painted • Hella driving lights mounted • New accelerator pedal fabricated INTERIOR: • AA bolt-in cage • Deleted rear seat • Carpeted • Fabricated new vinyl trim, door panels and package shelf • Modified console • Recovered pillars and door post • Added switches for fuel pump and driving lamps • Clock from WW1 airplane • Fabricated instrument pod for VDO gauges • Molded dash cap • Bimarco seats, custom floor mounts • Rally co-driver foot brace • Five-point safety harnesses • Built-in fire protection system, custom-fabricated brackets • Momo steering wheel • Momo shift knob • Wink mirror

Thanks! The door panels are the Aardvark plywood replacements, covered in thin closed-cell sticky-back foam and then in black vinyl. Note that we had to leave a cutout for the roll cage.

Hi, I'll include a few and beginning to end documentation can be found at No time right now for more detailed comments but I'll do that later. Apologies for image quality of much of this. Bill

Hi Folks, After many months of work, we've finally completed our 1972 '02 "hot rod". I've attached a picture and will post more, if anyone is interested. Thanks to a friend, with extraordinary mechanical and fabrication skills, the car turned out really well and is a hoot to drive. Bill H.

I have an unused black carpet set from Only '02 that I'll sell. Have to research price.

Thanks! That's helpful. I'm still leaning toward Santorin Blue. I've seen it on this car and it seems perfect. http://enthusiastauto.com/qsearch/?id=190&form_display=51

I'm thinking Santorin Blue might be the color to use.

As I covered in the Project Blogs, we're building a 1972 '02 as a street/track car. Since the car is nowhere near stock we can get away with being a little creative with the paint. We have a few contraints, no metallics or pearls, no clear coat, single color. We're also well past the point where we want the car to look "boy racerish." I've been leaning toward a blue, just a little darker than Bugatti Blue. The blue color in the M logo is close. See http://www.bmwblog.com/2009/04/13/history-bmw-m-logo-colors-explained/ Has anyone used that on a car. If so, do you have pictures. Thanks, Bill '72 2002 Track Car Project:

Thanks! Will do Hopefully, this "friends and relatives" link will work. Let me know if it's a problem.

This ongoing project incorporates 2 2002s, one a donor, the other a recipient. I think it's progressing nicely. Any comments are welcome. Changed link to public. 2-19 Bill

Hi Folks, I'm a new member of this forum and the new owner of a 1972 2002 (picture attached). I'm excited about the car and looking forward to participating in this forum. The 2002 is a running project. It is going to be a hot rod driver/occasional track car. Unlike it's garage mate, a 1989 E30 M3, it has been so extensively modified that I don't worry about keeping it original; which, as you know, opens up all sorts of possibilities. I don't have any history from the guy before the previous owner, who had most of the work on the car done. He seems to have done a good job with engine and basic suspension but his tire and wheel choices may be questionable. The car is shod with no-name spoked alloy wheels; I'm guessing 15x7 but don't really know. One is bent at the bead but holds air, one is slightly curb rashed. Alignment seems fine. The tires are newish Sumimoto HTR 200 195/50R15. There don't appear to be any spacers. I'm experiencing some significant rubbing issues, just in the places where you'd expect those to occur (multiple passengers, cornering). I'm a little conflicted about what to do here. Spacers would seem to create an issue with the outer fenders but I'm not positive that is the case. I think I'm going to have the fenders rolled and add flares when I have the car painted next winter; that may resolve some issues. My options seem to be: 15"with spacers, 15" with spacers and flared fenders, 13" or 14" with new wheels (+flares). I'm currently leaning toward 13" Minilites or clones driven by weight considerations. My questions are: 1. Are there strong arguments for or against using 13" wheels? A lot of very nice cars pictured on this site seem to have them. I realize that some of this may be a "religious argument." 2. I don't see many cars with 14" wheels. What's the deal there? Lack of wheels in that size? 3. I'm considering spacers for the 15" wheels as a stop gap. Is that a reasonable solution? Thanks! Bill