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GreenSwede

Solex
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  1. GreenSwede

    GreenSwede

  2. To me, with limited experience of track, it seems very good. I'm very happy with it. For street, it's kind of harsh.
  3. Thought I'd share. How fun it is. And the taiga is doing ok, I'll stop fiddling with it for now. It's far from a race car, but good enough for doing this a couple of times per year.
  4. I had trouble getting it through between the tow hooks and the front panel. I bent the tow hooks with a tire iron, and bent them back once finished..
  5. Well, maybe when everything else is done (Ha!), I'll play around with tubing and smaller mufflers to get a more "grrr" out the exhaust. And, my Peugeot 104 got 3-bolt wheels. Of course. Cuts 25% off tire stops! If I did race it, I'd be back on track while others were still torquing their 4th bolts..
  6. Yeah, I know.. Crackle is kind of fun, I had some going on while tuning my 38 (at some point where it also only ran well on WOT, of course). And I know why it happens, so I also know it's hardly a good idea if any street driving will be done. The plugs will soil quickly. Anyhow! I more meant the tone of the exhaust.. It's great. It's roaring but.. elegantly, somehow. It's not the "Hey, I built a full flow exhaust-BAAAHH", but it has an untamed, snappy note. Like old porsches with Sebring-exhausts. I've thought of that, but haven't had the energy. Most homemade solutions I hear tend to sound Massey Ferguson on idle. I've been thinking about at least trying a different muffler. (Got headers (TEP), and I like what they do. And a 2" sport exhaust that sound kind of nice).
  7. https://youtu.be/e9F1YDjkJys?t=2m18s I guess exhaust could do a bit, but I don't know how..
  8. Heh.. I got a pair of 142.5. Haven't got around to trying them yet though. I haven't played with pump jets, though. I'm leanish on high revs WOT, above 5k, and on high rev cruise on slight load, as in 4-4500 rpm. On the way home from the last track day I didn't want to run lean that for the 5 hour ride, and occasionally pulled the choke just a bit. Got me down to 14.5.. Recently installed the F66 E-tubes, but no big difference there. Did not have a lot of time to fiddle with jets, though. Also installed a bavaria fuel pump (got the tip that stock might not keep up at high revs WOT). No difference. If I richen with mains or smaller air, I get too rich at the bottom end.
  9. My mom went off the road in a E30 with a welded seat. It was 25 years ago, but she is reminded of that piece of steel that bent upwards every day. I you repair, make sure it's well done. Mine were wobbly and didn't feel right, which gave me the needed reason to buy new seats:)
  10. I'd say entry to mid corner. Or no, more mid corner to exit, actually. I'm not sure. I'm not that experienced at the track, either. But compared to the last time I tracked, on street tires, it was quite the difference. I guess the R-compounds tell it like it is:) And I'd say more at low speed bends. I don't know the specs of the suspension kit, but it's an H&R Cup Kit (not adjustable, contains Bilsteins). The front thicker sway Walloth carries (22mm?) with poly bushings. All other bushings rubber, the radius arms Turbo version with a home made compression plate to keep the tires straight while braking. I did have another difference in setup this time, though. If it matters. Last time, less understeer: Street tires on 13x6 ET17 all around. This time, more understeer: Kumho R's on 13x6 ET17 rear, and ET25 (ET30 with a 5mm spacer) up front. Should the tiny difference in track width matter..? This because I had some rubbing with the street tires, and a look at the Kumhos beside those told me it wasn't going to work:)
  11. Back to this subject. Today I measured a bit more. And I think it's doable. Below is a marker pen taped to a measure set to 15mm (which is the offset of the available spacers). The IE spacer are 13mm thick, the ones I found in Sweden 15mm, and the pen + measure about 16mm. I guess the fact that the control arm remains put and I don't run wider rims than 6" (these are 6" ET30 Borranis) actually will save my 13"inch loving bottom.
  12. It could work. And it is a front mount, there should be a bearing inside. Pretty sure. If that's what you mean, Toby? However, I have the possibility to order and return without cost, I'll do so and take measures and think things over. The shock rod hole looks small, though. Does anybody know the nut size of a rabbit mk1 front shock?
  13. I was thinking. I want more negative (I should say less camber, shouldn't I? ) camber up front. But I don't want uniballs or solid mounts. I'd like to keep some rubber. So options to buy seem to be K-Mac. But I saw these. I'm trying to find measures, but they seem to be small enough to mount on a plate that fits the stock body hole. I can't go that far, anyway, since I'm running stock struts. A wee bit slotted for final adjustments. VW Rabbit Mk1 front top strut mounts: Now, commence the thrashing of my idiot thoughts:)
  14. An out of the blue guess for the knock is oil pump shaft. Mine does that, on 10w-60 Valvoline Racing oil. A bit more than it did on 20w-50, I think. 15w-50 should work well, though. Maybe a bit on the thin side in a really warm climate. Checkable with Toby suggestion of a stethoscope, or maybe the cheaper version of a screwdriver pressed to your ear.
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