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  1. I forgot to ask a question. When I reassemble the sliding joint, do I use any grease to pack the joint, or do I just put in the gear oil after I have everything assembled? I'm trying to do all of this without removing the half shaft, so the joint is currently vertical and I'm not sure how to keep all of the needle pins in place on the bottom pin without using a little grease. Thanks.
  2. Yes, thanks for this info! I got on here to figure out how to remove the pin, so it was nice to discover that it could be done without removing the pin. I would never have guessed that it would be possible. The instructions and pictures were very helpful. I heated the boot in water and was able to get it over the first pin and ball, but the boot had cooled by the time I got to this point. So I took my wife's blow dryer to it to heat it up again to get it over the second pin. And yes, I really had to put some force into it to get it over the second pin. I pried with a spoon, and pushed from the inside with the round end of a long wrench at the same time, which really helped. Thanks again for posting this! Ken, you have to be logged in to the forum in order to see the attachment and pictures. I didn't see them either until I logged in.
  3. After failing to find a new fuel shut off solenoid on-line, I went into the local import parts store / Weber dealer to see if I could get one. The guy I talked to didn't have one and couldn't order one, but he suggested that I test the one on the carb and told me how to do it. I pulled out the solenoid, unplugged the wire, turned on the ignition, grounded the body of the solenoid, and then reconnected the wire to the solenoid. When I did so, the solenoid did make a "shutting" noise, and I tested it multiple times. I've concluded that the solenoid is indeed working, so that at least narrows it down. I got out my air compressor, and blew the heck out of the idle air jet and any other orifice I could find on the carb. I started the car, turned off the choke, and readjusted the air/fuel mixture screw and now I can at least get the car to run without the choke on. It doesn't run awesome (the idle seems to fluctuate), but it seems to be running better. My next task is to make sure the timing is right. And then maybe make sure the jets in the carb are right for my car. Now I just have to figure out how to do those...
  4. Thanks for all of the great advice. I've decided to give my 34ICH another try before dumping money into a new carburetor and manifold. I found and pulled out the idle jet. It looks pretty clean, but I did notice that it is connected to a solenoid, with a wire running to the ballast resistor. After further research, it sounds like this solenoid is an idle shut off solenoid. From what I've read, it sounds like my problem could very well be a bad idle shut off solenoid. The car runs (idles high) when I have the choke on, but when I turn it off it just dies, like it's not getting any fuel. I wasn't able to quickly locate a replacement idle shut off solenoid on the Internet. Does anyone know where I can find one. Or better yet, can I get rid of the solenoid and just use an idle jet and idle jet screw like I've seen in many of the diagrams. Thanks again for all of your help!
  5. I have a 1969 BMW 1600, and it currently has a Weber 34 ICH carburetor (single barrel) on it. I've rebuilt the carburetor twice, and it still idles very high and won't run unless I keep the choke on. I've adjusted the fuel/air mixture, and just can't seem to get it right. I think the carb is just old. Instead of replacing it with another Weber 34 ICH, I thought this would be a good opportunity to get a performance carb instead. I've done some research and I'm looking at replacing it with a Weber 32/36 DGV (manual choke). This is a two barrel carburetor, which means I'll have to get a new intake manifold as well. From what I've read, I can't just use any intake manifold from a BMW 2002 because the intake holes are slightly smaller on the 1600. It sounds like there's a German company that makes a two barrel intake manifold for the 1600. It is a Cannon manifold, model 99004-095. I'm leaning towards the DGV (manual choke) because my current carb is manual choke and I think it would require less work to make the conversion (I'm an amateur mechanic). I'm interested if anyone has a 1600 and has upgraded to this same carburetor, or if anyone sees a potential problem with my plan. Thanks in advance for your help.
  6. I live in Boise, and I'm interested. I have a BMW 1600, but I can still be included, right? I dusted it off this weekend and started driving it to work. I'm looking at upgrading the carburetor and would love to bounce some ideas off some local guys.
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