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LikeStig

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  1. @shermanmartinez Hey Sherman, Thank you for the pics! I've been trying to connect with you, I'd like to purchase that center cap. You should have a couple emails from me in your inbox. Thanks, Kyle
  2. Hi @shermanmartinez, I have your email from previous transactions! I’ll shoot you a message. Thanks, Kyle
  3. @RichenFamous Drats! Ignoring the major differences it is indeed similar. I appreciate you taking a look for me. Will keep the search up. I have come across a few 55mm-ish BMW caps from random years. If I don’t have any luck in the next couple days, I may pick a set of those up and 3D print an adapter ring to size them a few mm more. Then I can use something that’s more reasonably available (maybe have a spare, too).
  4. Hello, I recently lost a center cap on one of my Weds Bavaria wheels and am looking for a replacement. The diameter of the cap was approximately 60mm. Pictures of the missing part attached. They probably didn’t even come from a set of Weds. I would be interested in a matching set of center caps as well that are approximately this size too. Thanks, Kyle
  5. Hi Sherman, Sent you a PM and an email. thanks!
  6. Yes they clear! There is about 20mm of clearance from the top of the shroud I built. Of course, anyone’s mileage may vary.
  7. Yes! Some small progress has been made. I recently swapped in a new engine in the car and since then the AC project was put to the side I installed a hose bulkhead at the bottom of the cowling for the connections to pass through. It barely (but perfectly) fits there. Unfortunately the pipe bending tool I tried to use for making the aluminum cowling heater hoses wasn’t able to make tight enough radii out of the aluminum tubing to fit the heater valve controller- I ended up using elbows to route the hoses tight enough into the space which worked! Getting access to everything is really tough, building a ship in a bottle. I bought an AC hose crimping tool off eBay that seems to be doing the job well, this job the first time around would have been impossible ordering custom built AC hoses. I am using reduced barrier hoses in this section of the system to cut down on bulk, and standard barrier hoses in the engine bay for added durability. The only catch at the moment is the #10 suction hose in the cowling- it has a slight bend in the hose in one spot. I tried a ton of fitting configurations to make it better but the straight fittings were the best option. Old Air Products makes a straight 18” aluminum hard line that I may order, and bend up to better route this hose. Couldn’t find anyone who makes custom AC fittings that would make the right bends where I need ‘em. One other catch was getting the fittings attached on the engine bay side on the bulkhead. The bulkhead threads drop into the plate and have a long/short end. I needed to install the threads upside down so the shorter end of the bulkhead threads were on the engine side, otherwise the long ends would hit the firewall. Despite this the firewall still needed to be massaged a little to make space for the nuts on the fittings. Ultimately the process to secure everything in place was to: thread the firewall side fittings on with the threads loosely attached to the bulkhead, tighten the bulkhead threads into place, then tighten the engine side fittings, and finally install/tighten the cowling side fittings. Simply cutting a hole in the cowling here, rather than using a bulkhead, would save a lot of fiddling but I’m happy with the way it looks. I did 3D print a plate for the heater controls but I am going to make an improved version. Next steps are to (1) finish routing the AC/heater hoses, (2) get the unit wired up, (3) charge the system with fingers crossed I don’t have any leaks, and finally (4) modify/finish the center console with 3D printed HVAC ducts.
  8. Alternator and sunroof cables are sold- just the manifold left. Tii exhaust manifold, has a small crack but will clean up nice with a little TLC. thanks!
  9. Hi All, I think I’m going to be moving to California in July and am trying to decide the best course of action for my 1976 BMW 2002. The car has been on jack stands for about 2 years while I had some troubles getting a replacement engine together. I’m nearly done installing a recently rebuilt Tii motor in my car. How difficult is it going to be to swap 1976 emission parts onto a Tii engine? Will they give me trouble for having an electric fuel pump? No hole on the Tii head for the mechanical fuel pump. I feel like if I remove the Kfisch/belt/intake and swap over to a low pressure fuel pump I’m halfway there? I’d just need to acquire the emissions wiring loom with solenoids, install them and get the carb on a decent tune (I have an O2 sensor on the exhaust) I could get it passed every two years? Looking for some direction on this. If anyone has the parts I need please feel free to message me. Thank you, Kyle
  10. Sold to a good home in the state of Washington!
  11. Hello All, I’m looking to sell a relatively complete megasquirt setup. Below is a list of included parts. Looking to sell as a package. To complete this package you will need: 80a alternator mod, fuel pump, MS2 Wiring Harness from DIYAutotune, wideband 02, and an electric fan setup if you so desire. DIYautotune MegaSquirt-II EMS System - SMD PCB3.57- paid $445 PC with TunerStudio MS Installed- Software was like $60. The computer is nothing special but the battery holds a decent charge and I will clean up the hard drive prior to shipping. Fuel Injector Pigtails and assorted connectors- not sure what these cost but at least you have them all! IAT Sensor and Pigtail- Paid $22.50. I'll also throw in the 318i boot I used for my setup, which houses the air temperature sensor. Serial to USB Adapter - Paid $22.50. Laptops these days don't have a serial connector, so you'll need this. MSD EDIS Coilpack- Paid $90, not cheap to look fast. MSD Ignition Wires- Paid ~$100, bad financial choices always add up. 02again Trigger Wheel, EDIS Sensor Mount, IAC Valve Mount, TB Adapter- Paid $330. These are really nice components. You'll also get the trigger wheel sensor which worked great for me. The stepper motor for the IAC valve works fine, but has a bit of carbon buildup and could use a wipe down. May make sense to use a fresh stepper motor. Also includes an adapter that attaches an extra pulley to the front, perhaps for an AC Compressor. Brand new fuel rail- Paid $73. Thought I was going to bolt this all back into the car after getting an engine built but had a change of plans. Bosch Yellow Injectors- Paid about $160 new for these. They should work just fine, but it'd be worth testing them to be sure. Ran them for 3 years or so. New Intake side Gaskets- Probably about $10 Recently Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator 318i Intake Manifold. Has a groovy Motorsport motif I painted on a few years ago. I recently cleaned out the inside of the manifold and this should be ready to bolt on. Or a quick coat of black paint for a subdued look. EDIS Control Module 318i coolant neck. Has the necessary water sensor. 318i Throttle Body 318i coolant bypass Extras include a relay and fuseboard for wiring it all up. Asking $600 for the lot plus shipping. The 02Again trigger wheel is NLA, though it does seem IE is now recreating a similar piece for $220. Thanks! Kyle
  12. Hi All, I have a set of Marchal yellow rectangle fogs that I'm looking to sell. I bought these NOS from Greece some years ago. Sadly they were shipped to me in the original packaging that didn't have enough foam, they got some scratches where the two fogs touched during shipment. I have a spare lens clear of scratches, better use for that is if a lens ever cracked. I ran these with soft covers, only turned them on a few times, and the scratches are only visible on inspection. I think a little touch up paint would address this, but they are perfectly fine. I tracked down matching soft covers which took some time to find, included with sale plus plastic covers. Also including some clips that attached to chrome bumpers without drilling. All in paid way more for these, even more so if you tally in the soft covers, would just like to get them out of the shop. Price includes 48-state shipping. They're really cool! Took them off thinking to "de-accessorize" my car some and blend in a little more- haha! Thanks, Kyle
  13. Thanks for the tip! I’ll do exactly this. I hadn’t considered using metal sections in the cowling area coolant hoses to get a precise fit. I like this idea. Really would like to get this valve in the cowling, and I’ve been anticipating the issue of tightening the hose clamps in the cowling but one of those projects I only need to do once, I guess. Thanks again.
  14. Still working away on this project. Had two questions below I wanted to ask. Updates- Getting that regulator tightened into its final place was a huge PITA. Extremely little access to the female-end fitting, one of my DA sanders had a thin metal wrench which I was able to get on the fitting from the interior, while tightening the regulator from the cowling. My busted knuckles will take some time to recover! Following this attaching the regulator coil to the upper attachment was a challenge, but with some patience and a quality window seal pick it went into place. Next steps are to get all the electrical done, and wrap up the condenser/compressor end. I’m swapping in a new engine (stuck across the CA border, long story) so I have some time before I can get around to the engine side for final hose measurements. I will design and 3D print a plate to replace the stock heater controls in the dash over the next week. I’m really excited that the kit switches fit in this location and match the 2002’s pull switches! Thought I’d also share better pictures with the stock console, I’m going to need to make some mildly-modified side pieces for the console to get it the 1” forward it needs to go, but again very pleased with the OEM appearance. Q’s- 1. What type of shop should I be looking for to get the AC lines bent and cut with fittings? Scratching my head on where to get this work done. I think I read online that I can bend up some dry-cleaning hangers to shape, and bring them to a specialist shop to have the lines built to shape/length. 2. The AC kit uses this heater bypass to open/close the coolant to the heater. Any good sources for getting custom coolant hoses? I need them to be pretty exact if I want to get this heater bypass inside the cowling as well.
  15. That is correct, but for me the pro’s outweighed the cons on that.
  16. I thought I’d share how I installed a Hurricane Air IP-2100. This was a very not-fun project, but hopefully with the foresight of my experience this can be an easier project for the next person. I first came across this unit on a build by Jake at Classic Daily: https://classicdaily.net/autobuildpages/1975-bmw-2002-turbo-m42-2/. I have seen someone on this forum selling a self-branded “conversion kit” but it’s actually just this Hurricane air unit with the fittings going direct through the firewall. The self-branded shtick and indirect answers to questions on here felt shady. Pics of those installs looked a little gnarly, at least the ones I’ve seen. 1. The first picture attachments are the unit as received from Old Air Products and followed by changes I made. I ordered mine without the defrost servo-motor thing, and no upper outlets on the plenum as well. I thought this would open enough clearance but not quite enough. I ended up removing it, disassembling the blower housing and rotating it so it shoots down. Should work just fine! When I get everything sorted out I’m going to design and 3D print a vent system to use the stock vents as well as some vents on the sides of the center console. When I get around to it I’ll share the files for that! 2. The people at Old Air Products were really nice to work with. The main issue I ran into on this unit is that the fittings are in an upper location. I wouldn’t be surprised if they could make a version with fittings in a lower position. That would simplify all of this 200% but may require the unit is placed in a visible location. 3. The original plan was to make a fiberglass enclosure to replace the heater box in the cavity. It didn’t work at all. If the fitments on the unit came out on the lower section it may have worked. I couldn’t get the unit in any type of position where the evaporator would be anything near level. The other clearance issue is the regulator that comes off the bottom fitment- it requires additional length off the unit, and clearance on the ring that comes off the end. To get this regulator to fit in the cowling, I had to cut the upper section of the heater cavity, cut the lower lip off the cavity, cut part of the dash shelf off, and then sanded part of the dash down to the internal support structure which probably opened up 1/8-1/4” of clearance. This was necessary to get the unit high enough in the cowling to fit the regulator. Cutting this area with the dash in-place was not fun but I didn’t want to pull the windshield out to get the dash off. In the end I used a Dremel oscillating cutter (flat blade attachment) and it actually worked really well in the tight area with awkward angles. 4. I went through several designs for the final enclosure. In the end I went with the design in the pictures with 16ga steel. The center section needs to extend wider than the cavity itself to get an adequate seal so the enclosure is designed in 3 pieces, with the center piece being installed first. It needs to be pinched slightly to get the forward section on the ledge, and the upper end behind the wiper linkage. Once that’s in place, sealed and bolted the side pieces get popped in. Making these pieces took a lot of careful templates but I think with the basic measurements I provided are a good start. 5. I used silicone throughout the installation of the enclosure and attached the panels with rivets. I used clecos during the design process, and used them while sealing the panels during the final installation, then added rivets individually. It was a challenge to get the rivet tool in the corner, used a properly sized spacer while still gripping the end of the rivet to get it to work. Getting the side panels into place with larger panels around the edges isn’t easy, so don’t get crazy with it. I bought some “flex tape” to go over the edges and whatnot to get a 100% airtight install- plus use it to seal the hole for the fittings from the cowling. Next step when I get back to this project.
  17. Just sent you a message! Still looking for an engine package. Thank you.
  18. Hello, I’m looking an M42 engine/trans/harness setup. Looking for an engine which is low mileage, below 80k would be great. Would be interested in a rebuilt engine as well. Located in Illinois. Thanks,
  19. My trunk smells like gas even though I've adequately vented my fuel tank. I think it's due to excess fuel pressure from my problematic Megasquirt system. One of the things I need to address before doing AC. For the pickup, I think enlarging the vent tube area on one of the sides would be ideal. You could cut a hole in the side of the bench seat and the rear door card allowing a space for ducting to run into the cabin. Then, mount the pickup vent at the feet area below the rear passenger bench seat. There is a small gap between the bench seat and the frame rail in this area, but I don't think there is enough room and you would need to modify the structure of the bench in this region to make this work. I would also consider splitting the pickup vent, routing air ducts through both vent tube holes, and source an OEM vent that could replace the ashtray on each rear door card. Clean and easier than modifying the interior pieces. This is a cool project! Hoping to hear this works for you.
  20. Yoko S-drives 195/50r15 up front and 205/50r15 rears. HR springs, I put a 1/4 spacer on the rear spring perch and the rears still rubbed a little. No rolling. Front rubbed occasionally but no longer. Rub went away eventually on the rears too, but to have rear passengers I either need another spacer or put 195's. 1500 miles or so in. Weds Bavaria 15x7 wheels, unknown ET very small spacer up front to clear strut.
  21. A windshield installer inadvertently left this tool behind after installing the windshield in my 2002. I used it to install the door seals, rear window and rear window seals; it made the job a piece of cake. https://www.equalizer.com/Products/ProductDetail/822
  22. I've always dreamed of using a "space saver" spare in the trunk vs. a full size spare, and using the extra space to place a custom plastic organizer under which I can store a proper jack, spares, tools, etc. Still plan on doing this at some point!
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