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LikeStig

Solex
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About LikeStig

  • Birthday February 6

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  1. That is correct, but for me the pro’s outweighed the cons on that.
  2. I thought I’d share how I installed a Hurricane Air IP-2100. This was a very not-fun project, but hopefully with the foresight of my experience this can be an easier project for the next person. I first came across this unit on a build by Jake at Classic Daily: https://classicdaily.net/autobuildpages/1975-bmw-2002-turbo-m42-2/. I have seen someone on this forum selling a self-branded “conversion kit” but it’s actually just this Hurricane air unit with the fittings going direct through the firewall. The self-branded shtick and indirect answers to questions on here felt shady. Pics of those installs looked a little gnarly, at least the ones I’ve seen. 1. The first picture attachments are the unit as received from Old Air Products and followed by changes I made. I ordered mine without the defrost servo-motor thing, and no upper outlets on the plenum as well. I thought this would open enough clearance but not quite enough. I ended up removing it, disassembling the blower housing and rotating it so it shoots down. Should work just fine! When I get everything sorted out I’m going to design and 3D print a vent system to use the stock vents as well as some vents on the sides of the center console. When I get around to it I’ll share the files for that! 2. The people at Old Air Products were really nice to work with. The main issue I ran into on this unit is that the fittings are in an upper location. I wouldn’t be surprised if they could make a version with fittings in a lower position. That would simplify all of this 200% but may require the unit is placed in a visible location. 3. The original plan was to make a fiberglass enclosure to replace the heater box in the cavity. It didn’t work at all. If the fitments on the unit came out on the lower section it may have worked. I couldn’t get the unit in any type of position where the evaporator would be anything near level. The other clearance issue is the regulator that comes off the bottom fitment- it requires additional length off the unit, and clearance on the ring that comes off the end. To get this regulator to fit in the cowling, I had to cut the upper section of the heater cavity, cut the lower lip off the cavity, cut part of the dash shelf off, and then sanded part of the dash down to the internal support structure which probably opened up 1/8-1/4” of clearance. This was necessary to get the unit high enough in the cowling to fit the regulator. Cutting this area with the dash in-place was not fun but I didn’t want to pull the windshield out to get the dash off. In the end I used a Dremel oscillating cutter (flat blade attachment) and it actually worked really well in the tight area with awkward angles. 4. I went through several designs for the final enclosure. In the end I went with the design in the pictures with 16ga steel. The center section needs to extend wider than the cavity itself to get an adequate seal so the enclosure is designed in 3 pieces, with the center piece being installed first. It needs to be pinched slightly to get the forward section on the ledge, and the upper end behind the wiper linkage. Once that’s in place, sealed and bolted the side pieces get popped in. Making these pieces took a lot of careful templates but I think with the basic measurements I provided are a good start. 5. I used silicone throughout the installation of the enclosure and attached the panels with rivets. I used clecos during the design process, and used them while sealing the panels during the final installation, then added rivets individually. It was a challenge to get the rivet tool in the corner, used a properly sized spacer while still gripping the end of the rivet to get it to work. Getting the side panels into place with larger panels around the edges isn’t easy, so don’t get crazy with it. I bought some “flex tape” to go over the edges and whatnot to get a 100% airtight install- plus use it to seal the hole for the fittings from the cowling. Next step when I get back to this project.
  3. Just sent you a message! Still looking for an engine package. Thank you.
  4. Hello, I’m looking an M42 engine/trans/harness setup. Looking for an engine which is low mileage, below 80k would be great. Would be interested in a rebuilt engine as well. Located in Illinois. Thanks,
  5. My trunk smells like gas even though I've adequately vented my fuel tank. I think it's due to excess fuel pressure from my problematic Megasquirt system. One of the things I need to address before doing AC. For the pickup, I think enlarging the vent tube area on one of the sides would be ideal. You could cut a hole in the side of the bench seat and the rear door card allowing a space for ducting to run into the cabin. Then, mount the pickup vent at the feet area below the rear passenger bench seat. There is a small gap between the bench seat and the frame rail in this area, but I don't think there is enough room and you would need to modify the structure of the bench in this region to make this work. I would also consider splitting the pickup vent, routing air ducts through both vent tube holes, and source an OEM vent that could replace the ashtray on each rear door card. Clean and easier than modifying the interior pieces. This is a cool project! Hoping to hear this works for you.
  6. Yoko S-drives 195/50r15 up front and 205/50r15 rears. HR springs, I put a 1/4 spacer on the rear spring perch and the rears still rubbed a little. No rolling. Front rubbed occasionally but no longer. Rub went away eventually on the rears too, but to have rear passengers I either need another spacer or put 195's. 1500 miles or so in. Weds Bavaria 15x7 wheels, unknown ET very small spacer up front to clear strut.
  7. The corner placement is interesting- I also have rectangle lower fogs as, to me, the logic made sense. I have a switch on top of the steering column which turns on the upper fogs with the high-beams, and a pull switch for the lower fogs in place of the dummy switch by the gauges. The upper fogs project a wide, narrow band of light and the lowers are more fill.
  8. A windshield installer inadvertently left this tool behind after installing the windshield in my 2002. I used it to install the door seals, rear window and rear window seals; it made the job a piece of cake. https://www.equalizer.com/Products/ProductDetail/822
  9. I've always dreamed of using a "space saver" spare in the trunk vs. a full size spare, and using the extra space to place a custom plastic organizer under which I can store a proper jack, spares, tools, etc. Still plan on doing this at some point!
  10. Was just fiddling with my MTX-L yesterday. I am also using a Heat Sink spacer on mine, I listened to the exhaust shop instead of the instructions and allowed them to install a shorter bung which stuck the sensor deeper into the exhaust. Not necessary and caused the Bosch sensor to overheat. I like the 02 sensors with the gauges as (if you're using megasquirt or an ECU) you can check that the output voltage is being properly read by the ecu. In my case I needed to adjust the AFR voltage table in Tuner Studio so that the megasquirt read the same AFR as the gauge. The gauge is the accurate number.
  11. LikeStig

    (Found)

    Thanks dude! La Jolla had the screw covers on the shelf, just $7 a pop. Also ordered the plugs while I was at it.
  12. LikeStig

    (Found)

    Did I'll try La Jolla Independent, thanks for the tip! And such a pain to find some little piece. Apparently they got pretty brittle with age, yup NLA. Ahh a blind plug! I had no idea what the technical term for it was. That part number is for a 7mm blind plug, but is actually a big help because I measured the hole and it looks like 20mm. Googles 20mm blind plug and.... https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-116232-51711801066-genuine-bmw-part/?gclid=CjwKCAjw75HWBRAwEiwAdzefxJ4GKvYAWbYj4su_FJ4VmU7w4z6FY9zKEsyrFfp84oAicKP-yG6yzBoCrk4QAvD_BwE PN 51711801066 Thanks! Just the screw covers now.
  13. LikeStig

    (Found)

    Hi All, I'm looking for a pair of the plastic pieces which go on the vent window latches, screw covers. Anyone have an extra set? Also in need of some rubber body caps, specifically: 4 (total) rubber plugs which go into the rear shock tower (located inside the wheel wells) and (1) body plug which goes on the floor, underneath the rear bench. It's on the driver side I believe. Thank you! Kyle
  14. Thanks for the heads-up, just signed up!
  15. A lot has been said here. In my experience RogersTii is a good seller and I never through twice about the service. Phone/email has all been good. In fact, he sells a Cad-plated bolt kit for the doors hood and trunk which was awesome (and convenient) when I put together my car after repaint. Like anything, when you're buying obscure parts you may need to shop around. I like that his website has pictures of the products too. All this said: in my experience Dave at Aardvarc Racing and Steve at Bluntech are tremendously helpful and the best sellers I've worked with. A+
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