Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Have then engine exhaust manifold, down pipe or other exhaust parts?
  2. Yeah, Search is like digging for little gold nuggets.
  3. Yes, it was an old revival, but that's why I appreciate the benefit of this forum and the Search function. It helps having an archive of expert's solutions and experience on tap to solve my problems whenever they arise. This spring may have been the problem I had last week. When I finally finished re-plumbing the fuel system over the last few months, the engine started fine but I couldn't engage the tranny with the clutch in without all gears grinding. My first thought was that the clutch plate had rusted to the the flywheel. But crawling under the car revealed the broken retaining spring. I'm at least going to take a stab at replacing the spring without removing the transmission. If that fails, it's not going to hurt removing it, just time consuming. I've been debating doing a lot of work under the car and just need a good reason to bite the bullet. A non-operating tranny would do it. The seals are slowly leaking on the tranny, the rear subframe needs to be dropped de-rusted & painted, replace its bushings, clean and seal the underside of the chassis, etc. etc. etc. I was just hoping to get the '02 back on the road after correcting the fuel system problems. Oh well, there's always the E30 vert with Spring approaching while I rehab the '02! Thanks for the all the replies and pics.
  4. I need to revive this thread with a follow-up question. While refreshing my tranny fluid, I noted that the spring in question on this old thread (to the far right of the pic) is broken on my clutch fork. Question that I have is: 1. What does this spring do? I assume hold the folk in position to the TO bearing. 2. Can the spring be replaced without dismantling the tranny? Thanks, John
  5. I'm looking for a Tii exhaust manifold. I can be reached through email button or via shnklj(at)yahoo(dot)com Thanks....John
  6. I would be interested in the exhaust manifold and downpipe. Can you send the Word document and link to the photos? email - shnklj(at)yahoo(dot)com. Thanks John
  7. Copart.com : use search with "BMW" and appropriate range of years. Located in Atlanta. VIN checks out, but appears to have body work. Be wary of buying without inspecting, especially of Copart. Sale date is 11/20/12. I would go look, but too far to drive on short notice, so just passing along the info to fellow fanatics. NM/NA
  8. Thanks for the response. I'm pulling it off today and comparing its set up to the pumps listed in the Tom Jones thread so I can get the correct one ordered. Oddly enough, a PO had, at one point, ran a Walbro electric pump from the trunk and left it mounted there....John
  9. Well life got in the way of this fix, so I'm trying to address it now. After reading many threads on fuel pumps, I realized that my pump was atypical. While it's a Pierburg, I couldn't find the part number on the net. The incoming and outgoing fuel connections face the front of the car. While I'll replace it, anyone recognize it? [/img]
  10. Hi, I'm interested in the knowing what exhaust down pipes you have in the picture and condition of each. Looking to see what would fit a '75. Pics of each and prices would be appreciated, if they could be sent to shnklj AT yahoo DOT com. Would you happen to have an exhaust manifold in any of those boxes?...Thx, John
  11. Oh, I wasn't planning on using the vinyl. That was for diagnostic purposes to see the flow of gas and how high up the tubing that the pump was able to pull the gas. My interpretation of the results is that the pump is weak. My doubt comes from the ID of the tubing (6mm), the height that the pump had to pull the gas up (over the front fender from the ground) compared to the normal (horizontal) orientation of the gas lines from the tank and the size of those gas lines. I don't know if it was a fair comparison. I'll confess that I don't know the ID of those lines running from the tank to the firewall. A smaller ID in those lines would not stress / load the pump as much.
  12. I've been working on diagnosing a starting problem / fuel issue and need a second opinion. The 02 sat for a while (bad move!) after the exhaust pipe / muffler weld broke, due to probable backfire (the next problem to solve). After the car had sat a few weeks, it was not starting but turning over. I removed the the air filter off the Weber to check the fuel bowl and the fuel filter screen at the inlet. Both were dry. I removed the fuel lines leading to the inline filter between the carb and mechanical fuel pump. It too was practically dry, with a few dribbles of gas. I then spent some time cranking the engine to see if the fuel had bled back into the tank and let the pump attempt to fill the carb. After several minutes, all I had was a tired battery. The next test was to remove the in- and out-coming fuel lines to the pump. I put some 6mm ID clear vinyl tubing on the pump, tightened with hose clamps and then directed the other ends into a small container of gas on the floor. As my wife cranked the car, I watched the fuel pump pull the gas about half way up the fender before it petered out and the battery started to weaken. My expectation was that the pump (if working) would have cycled the gas very easily out fo the container and back into it. Do I have a bad pump or is there a flaw in my test? My next move will be to look in the tank for crud clogging the uptake lines / sock.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.