Jump to content

Hans

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,056

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    That upper hose looks close to the pulley. Those bushings are toast. the tension bracket won't compensate for that.
  2. Hans
    Does the alt have play at the bushings? Is the pump pulley seated properly?
  3. Hans
    If memory serves, there is a slot on the bell housing beside the hidden push rod where you can insert a blade to make a mark on the rod and measure its travel (or not) as an assistant pushes the pedal. That might tell you if its working properly. You might want to revisit the lengthy thread from Hack about his stuck clutch. Simeon: what the heck happened there?
  4. Hans
    so #25 snapped off?
  5. Hans
    can you ID on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3111-EUR-01-1966-NK-BMW-1600&diagId=34_0836
  6. Hans
    One of those adjustment pins does not appear to be contacting the side of the hole in the shoe. I'd be looking a the hand brake adjustment, and the rubber hoses at the back.
  7. Hans
    I've installed half a dozen over the years, and paid no attention to mfgr. Never had an issue. In many cases, you get same part in non-BMW box for half the price.
  8. Hans
    The BMW lines come as straight pieces, and If memory serves, at least for the caliper runs, they had little excess length to compensate for the challenge of re- creating the tight factory bends. I'd suggest practising on some generic auto supply store lengths to see how it goes.
  9. Hans
    Did i see that little fella at TedFest?
  10. Hans
    As above, you should be checking amps between post and cable, not volts. Better to use 10A tester just in case. If you r old battery couldn't produce more than 10.5V after a good charging, I'd say that would be a suspect. How old is /was it? I'd be focusing on current draw from new pump with ignition off. Checking wires for voltage is useful if you're looking a drop in current, which you're not. A short will produce fire works and pop the fuse. I'd do an amp test on new battery before connecting the cable. If minimal amps show, off you go. Otherwise, do fuse test.There are as I recall some non-fused circuits, and I think a bad starter can cause battery drain. But from your description, I'd say the battery chose that moment to expire.
  11. Hans
    The squirrel cage is a cheap but effective tool for synchronizing. I think I paid $25 from some VW place. Worth every penny. HOWEVER, after spending hours screwing around with the carbs, I was advised to reset timing to at least 33 deg at full advance and that sorted things out. So I'd be buying and using the timing light before changing jets, etc.
  12. Hans
    Thanks for the link to the manual. I'd seen that before with the resistance meter used on the wheel. What is unclear is whether one is removing free play up to a certain level of steering resistance. I don't need any more resistance, but I could use less free play.
  13. Hans
    So I'm still not clear on the effect of tightening the screw on the box: will that reduce free play in the steering arm or increase resistance at the steering wheel?
  14. Hans
    In a time long ago......
  15. Hans
    I would'nt be grinding on that outlet. And getting it out is a pig. And I wouldn't be cutting the hose. If you're sure you have the right hose, clean up the nipple, soak the hose in hot water, apply some anti-freeze to the hose end and heave away (said the Vicar...).
  16. Hans
    Serendipitous, you say. BMW was very good at recycling and standardization of parts over several generations/series. Now, as the owner of what I assume is an A-H, you would appreciate that an MG-TD shop manual covered most components on my MG-A and later, MG-B.
  17. Hans
    Did you replace the rubber hoses all around? That's where I'd be starting if you're happy with previous bleeding. Also, pads can make a difference, if you are using a hard pad that needs to be warmed up to work properly. I swapped out Metal Masters for regular pads and suddenly my brakes worked much better.
  18. Hans
    be careful qaboutr changing too many things before establishing problem. You can rough in timing using the test lamp method to get it started and then set properly.. Do you have a timing light?
  19. Hans
    I too am waiting for the last bit of snow to melt in front of the garage doors!
  20. Hans
    JohnH may be right - sorta looks like a split. That would explain it. But the clamp at top of photo looks wonky too. I'd get a re placement for that short hose (OEM or just piece of generic hose) and change that, redo all the clamps and see what happens. Water pump shouldn't puke that much out.
  21. Hans
    It could be done, on a lift would be better. Getting the old ones out is the trick. For the extra time/cost, i'd replace the whole arm.
  22. Hans
    The engine might look good, but after sitting for so long, may have rusted bores, or other issues. Few people park a good car in a field to sit for no reason, so I'd assume there was some problem. Just finding and replacing a door window would be a major undertaking. I'm not sure you'd get $300 worth of parts, and why go to the trouble of removing and storing parts if you don't actually need them. Plus unless someone removed the brake pads, that sucker won't go anywhere. As I said, better to find a more advanced start point if you want one. I expect that one will be there for some time, so you can come back and pick as needed.
  23. Hans
    That would be a labour of love. If it has been there for any time, the bottom is likely toast. Parts maybe, You 'd do better to find one that is running. Under 10K should get something nice.
  24. Hans
    You may have fried something on the SAAB. Possibly there is a breaker or in line resistor that popped, but you'd need a wiring diagram to figure that out. SAAB forum? Try the reboot above first aftter charging battery properly, or better, with a different fully charged battery.
  25. Hans
    I got some for CS at local bearing shop. take in the old on, or get specs off Real OEM
×
×
  • Create New...