Jump to content

Hans

Solex
  • Posts

    3,049
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Hans

  1. Is that thing in the bag metal? hard to tell - sort of looks like seal. The ones I've seen were about the size of the outer bearing race as in cross-section. I don't recognize the smaller ones.
  2. If you clean with aerosol carb cleaner and fine tube, WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
  3. The pump sucks from the tank, then pushes to the carb. So with engine being cranked, fuel should come out hose at carb. Carb sucks air and fuel down the throat. What do you mean by "throttle cable"? Carb is operated by solid linkage. Maybe manual choke? After six years, carb may need cleaning. Do full check on ignition, see if it will start. If not, time to pull carb and do cleaning. Best to search in here for instructions. You may need rebuild kit.
  4. OK, I thought we had flagged ignition in previous posts. OP needs to check full ignition system and timing. Be mindful of old saying: most of your carb problems are electrical.
  5. It may just get held on by the window rubber
  6. when you push the gas pedal down, it should squirt fuel down the throat of the carb. You can see it. You can do the same thing by pushing the linkage while yo watch. No squirt may mean no fuel in carb bowl. You could pull the fuel line at the carb, stick it in a bottle and turn it over to test flow to that point. If carb is functioning, and choke is on, carb will suck fuel when turning over. So you could flood it. But you'd smell gas. Pedal to the floor overrides choke and lets in full air. Quick start should get it to fire. When was the last time it ran? The jets of the carb may be gummed up if it was left with a full bowl of fuel.
  7. Can you smell gas at the carb? Could you have flooded it? Try holding gas pedal tot the floor and turning over. make sure battery is charged. What is condition of ignition components? Getting spark? Can you see gas squirting down throat then using linkage?
  8. Good points about installed height. Thanks all.
  9. You have not responded to a number of comments and questions from page 1 so its hard to know what's changed.
  10. To stop siphon flow, pull tube out of tank. If you plan tp put in modern car, best to get a proer long neck funnel to get past gate disc.
  11. Siphon it out through the trunk. Get a siphon kit at auto parts store, Harbor Fright, etc. And a big enough gas can. How much fuel is in there? Or at least get most of it out and add fresh. It's not that hard to pull tank. Undo 10 bolts and lift out. However, it would be heavy, so you're back to siphoning. I've put 10-12 month old gas in my E46 and E91, and they were fine. So that may be an option. Let me know if you go that route and I'll give you some tips. Anyway, no clamp and old hose might be the cause of your problem. You need sleeve with new hose and clamp.
  12. Is the plastic sleeve stuck in the hose? I don't see it on the outlet pipe. you need to let the O-ring sit for 24 hrs (as I recall) if you're reusing it. There is a way to tighten it with two big crossed screwdrivers in those notches. That is the filter. Shine a light into the tank and see if there is floating skuzz from old ethanol fuel or rust bits.. Otherwise, I'd replace the hose and the plastic sleeve and see what happens. With clamps!! You may have been sucking air.
  13. Can someone confirm the height of the stock and E21 bushings? Both 32mm?
  14. Be careful coaxing the electrical connections off. Unless the hose slips off easily, I'd slit the hose lengthwise carefully at the tank pipes- use a very sharp blade with several strokes.
  15. First, see its your lucky day and they are the same.....
  16. Nice pump. It will take a minute or so to pull fuel from the back. First I would pull the pick-up sender from the tank and inspect for scuzz. Confirm that plastic sleeve is on sender outlet pipe.
  17. If the side to side shaft play is OK, and advance parts are solid, consider a pertronix conversion. 123 may make sense if you need new dist., but not cheap.
  18. Errr...."not badly corroded"..?? The contact pads should be flat, smooth and clean; i.e., not corroded. You may need a file to clean - off the car. You need a dwell meter to set dwell. Meanwhile, Gap of 0.016 (?) is fine. Do you know how to check timing?
  19. Cann you provide height of old and new mount bushing pls.
  20. Thanks for that detail. I'm curious about whether the inset and flush seals are the same. I'll check my collection.
  21. I'd be interested in knowing the numbers of your new and old seal.
  22. Checking the points means checking for smooth surfaces and measuring gap/dwell.
  23. My spare has inset, seal cap and is either 68 1600/2 or 67 nk..
×
×
  • Create New...