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About mnicktow

  1. I used the rear wheel well from an e30. it worked well
  2. I bought some knockoffs from ebay. while they are not original they also only cost $81 shipped. i'm only using the outer portion of them not the lamp holder. I will have to shim them a little. but they weren't $400 either
  3. I'm interested, but I live in Ohio. If I can pay for shipping and packing I'll buy it. thanks, MIke
  4. do you know what the compression ratio of these are?
  5. I used the factory resistor pack. I simply hooked up the original wires that feed power to the fan up to the new fan. the only change needed was cutting the box and drilling four holes for the mounting screws. the final fit leaves a lot more room under the cowl to get to things. I also replaced the heater control valve with one from a mid 90's Honda civic, its plastic and easy to get. no problems from it either. Oh I also replaced the original leaking radiator with an all aluminum 94 Honda civic unit. I do autocross and an occasional track event with no problems. very rarely have to turn on the pusher fan from an 1981 e21 320i
  6. I used some long machine screws and nuts to hold the fan to the heater box. just make sure to use some thread locker.
  7. I have talked with Norm and BJ at Minitec about doing the j32 swap into my 1991 318is after I transplant the m42 into my 2002, unfortunately they don't sound to interested in the electronics involved. They will sell me the parts I need to do the conversion. So it is doable, I'll just have to figure out the electrics myself. My buddy has built two of their mini/honda conversion and they are good people, just very busy. On a side note the miditec j32 swapped mini is a rocket ship I have ridden in the original and the second one built by minitec and my friend Dean Anderson (his is the orange one on their web page) it is a blast on road atlanta
  8. I got a PM today requesting a follow up on this conversion and honestly I had forgotten about it. I don't park my car outside often and I don't usually drive it in bad weather. So I can't say how it will hold up on a daily driven car, but it is in a secluded spot under the cowl. I've not had any problems from it and It definitely moves more air than the factory fan does. and I didn't cut up the factory wiring. it uses the fan speed switch just like the factory one. If I had a bad fan and a broken box I would do it again in a heart beat.
  9. I will be there, unfortunately my 2002 is not going to make it. I had the head rebuilt and now have an oil leak at the front lower corner of the head. I'll have to take it back apart when I get home. I'll be the guy staging cars for the touring and parade laps. Look forward to all the fun and seeing everyone. Mike Nicholas
  10. Interested in valve guides and pistons. Motor mounts also. What do you want for them? I live in Xenia, Ohio
  11. Sorry I forgot to add that the 1602 engine had been changed to a 2L. Andrew as both heads are e12's pistons shouldn't matter correct? I think I will simply take the 83 head as it is already off the engine. I'm still not sure about the gaskets I would think an m10 engine is an m10 when it comes to the primary gaskets. I understand some smaller gaskets will be different. any thoughts on the hardened valve guides and seats?
  12. I need to have a cylinder head redone for my 74 2002, the block is original to the car, but the e12 head on the engine is date coded 75. I can only assume that the original head was replaced by this newer head. I have an e12, 83 dated m10 head as well and it is drilled for a fuel pump, it was on a 76 dated m10 block in another euro 1602 that I bought for parts. If I use the 75 head, does it have hardened valve guides and seats? Is the 83 a better head? will the 83 head use the same gasket set? should I use a newer gasket set with "updated" valve seals and exhaust manifold gasket? If a newer gasket set is better what year should I use? Are the head bolts torque to yield or are they reusable? Thanks for all the help. Mike
  13. I haven't tried this, but a 1997 Honda CR-V heater valve looks like it should almost be a direct replacement. cable operated and 5/8" in and out may need to clock the arm.
  14. The Herke's are great people. I meet them at the Mitty in Atlanta several years ago they had the shorty with them. they took time out of there day and filled me in on the details of both the shorty and the race car. the shorty had rusted badly in the floor area if I remember correctly so they cut the rust out and shortened it. great family
  15. I have searched and not found much information on using an m44 instead of an m42(because I have two m44's). why does everyone seem to want the m42 over the m44. is it simply obd1 versus obd2 or is there more to it? I would think that you simply need to supply 12v to the engine computer to make it work as long as you use the wiring from the donor vehicle. I autocross my car and I just found out my extra engine(m10) has a non repairable crankshaft. so I'm weighing my options. thanks

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