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mike472

Turbo
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Everything posted by mike472

  1. It’s a blast to drive and makes a nice counterpoint to the 02. Counterpoint being the 02 makes you work for it!
  2. I think you may have Frozen calipers and/or wheels cylinders. You can have a solid pedal with frozen calipers. Also a rolling shell going down your driveway is not a proper test of your brakes. Have you tried taking the pads out and attempting to push the pistons back into the caliper? Bet they’re not moving like they should. If you bought this car and never looked at this stuff you owe it to yourself and your safety to do so. Don’t go adjusting linkages. In my experience it’s the simple stuff that is usually the problem. All you will do is screw things up even further if you start messing with the pushrod adjustment. The picot points may wear but the adjustment shouldn’t be used to compensate for worn parts. This adjustment should stay the same
  3. I think you need to look at the float level and the check valve on the inlet to float bowl. I think it needs to be 2.25 instead of 2. My carb was sized too small. Look on the forum and you’ll see plenty on this from CD and others including me. 175 is way to big on the main jet. I’m running 50 idles and 140 mains with 175 air correcters I believe. Car was starving for fuel until I fixed these two issues and put the bigger outlet mechanical 6 cylinder M30 fuel pump on. You will starve for gas at higher speed otherwise. Especially extended acceleration runs where you have the pedal buried for a while. Your low speed stall is probably something to do with float level and the check valve. I think you are compensating for this with the super large main jets. No way they should be that big. The float levels are different for plastic vs brass floats. My level was way low and it wasn’t getting enough gas into the main jets on transition from idle jets. I am running a Korman head with K300 cam and this car runs great with above setup. Motor is stock compression.
  4. I love the look and feel of these Rota R20 Alpina replicas. They are 6x15 and I’m running 195/50’s. I have H&R’s with HD Bilsteins and it feels perfect. Nice ride and light tire and wheel combo. A nice street setup with easy steering. They just became available again and I bought a second set for spares. Handling is sharp and steering feel is better then the 15x7 setup. The car doesn’t feel overtired at around town speeds. I found a guy in Great Britain who had the perfect Alpina decals to go with them and bought a few sets. The Estorilblau car has 7x15 3 piece BBS et25’s with 205/50’s on it. It has a little rub problem with the Bridgestone RE71’s. I have a spacer in front because the tire is rubbing the strut. It’s not too bad but annoying non the less. I wanted to go to a Ground control coil over setup to get rid of the spacers and get a little more negative camber to help the rub. Definitely has a heavier steering feel but with more grip running the same RE71’s. If you want to run big brakes like the Ireland Wilwood setup you need wheels that will clear them. Not all 7x15’s do. If you want to track your car at all I’d go for this setup. Lots of stuff to consider.
  5. In the mid 70's a car tuner by the name of Jack Clark out of Closter, NJ brought a tii up to Lime Rock that had the Alpina injection setup and a nice new set of Michelin XWX's in 185/70-13 mounted on a Ronal wheels. It was the first time I had ever seen XWX's in a 13" size. Back then you usually saw those only on high end sports cars. I know they are recreating those in different sizes these days and this makes me wonder if they are making in 13" sizes again too. They had a really interesting looking tread pattern. Dog biscuit I'd call it. The stock XAS's I remember were easy to lock up go into a slide when it was wet. Really good in the dry though. I wonder how much better these recreations are then the originals. Thanks to modern tech in rubber and construction they are probably a lot better.
  6. Bravo! Glad it’s coming together for you. Car looks good. I knew you’d get it done.
  7. I'm using Amsoil 20w50 with zinc additive. It's been good on the consumption side. I've started my car in 10-15 degree weather and it idled albeit a little shaky at first. I am careful in that kind of weather to let the engine idle for at least a minute or two. I worry about the pressure relief valve sticking and blowing the filter off when it's that cold. As pumps get old the bore of the relief valve in the aluminum body wears making it easier for that steel piston to cock a little and jam shut. I used a new pump when I rebuilt my engine to help avoid that problem. I would let it warm in extreme cold weather just a little no matter what kind of oil I put in. We've been having our share in the Northeast this winter.
  8. Really nice job! Looking at it I'm liable to go do something stupid like restore my other car. I love the smell of paint thinner in the morning.
  9. Sounds like worn spider gears. I have replaced them in one diff when a couple of teeth broke off. If you don't make a habit of trying to burn rubber and spinning one wheel, you'll be OK. The only time they get exercised is going around turns and spinning one wheel. I blew mine at the starting line of an autocross. It was a less then gentle start. I still managed to get my car home in spite of it. Lose one or two teeth and you can do that. I replaced the four spider gears myself. It's not to hard once you have the diff out of the case. There are shims behind the gears that adjust backlash. You should be able to just put them back where they were without having to get different shims. You should take the cover off to see how worn they are. Spin one wheel back and forth gently while holding the other still and you'll see any slop between those four gears. The ring and pinion are probably OK.
  10. You might want to call. I’ve gotten Jim Rowe on the phone a couple of time and he’ll talk your ear off about everything he does in his tranny rebuilds. It’s worth a call. He does a lot of work to beef up the trans to besides just replacing stock parts. I know he reworks the syncros and uses tapered roller bearing besides some other mods he makes. I don’t think Jim is the kind of guy who likes to respond by email.
  11. I just bought one of Metric Mechanics Sport OD 5 speed trannys and he makes 1st and 5th gear taller besides his other mods. It helps close the gap between 1st and 2nd gear. This give you four useful lower gears that mimic a close ratio box and a taller 5th gear for easier highway cruising. I have a 3.90 rear in my car so I think this will work well. This is nice in a street/track car. His 4 speed might be better for a dedicated track car. I didn't really look at the details on the ratios in his 4 speed. Both of those options are a whole lot less money then trying to resurrect one of the original CR 5 speeds.
  12. E12 is the way to go. It'll get your pedal travel feeling stock and a pedal high enough to heel and toe easily. Too much travel is no good. I have same setup and its perfect now with no brake biasing valve between front and rear
  13. With a golden opportunity to show off your handiwork, how could you pass it up? You can do it!
  14. Don’t try to recreate a stock 2002 turbo. If you want to do it do it with modern components with new electronic fuel injection. Metric Mechanic has forged 8.25-1 CR piston meant for turbocharged engines that have a ceramic top and hard anodized skirts. Don’t put an audi engine one your car. Blasphemy! youll be tearing your hair out trying to get all the stock turbo parts. Getting the right K fish pump is pert near impossible not to mention all the other parts necessary to recreate a stock 02 turbo
  15. I'd like to think it was Michelotti. The 02 looks like it has an italian influence with all those nice curves. The Bavaria and CS also have that "italanesque" feel to them. Like the same person did them. That all went away in 1977 when BMW started to sharpen up all the creases on all their cars. Kind of like a starched shirt. Call me a luddite but now all their fricken cars look like a worn down bar of soap.
  16. You should check out Metric Mechanic's website and read up on their piston sets and how they developed them. They have done quite a bit of testing with various forged pistons with different alloys of silicone in them. He has been able to make a durable, light, and close to stock expansion rate piston. He also uses hard anodizing on his pistons for a really hard surface along with lighter piston pins. I know Jim Rowe since the early 90's having personally visited his shop back then. I think he has the some of the most creative solutions for building performance and at the same time toughening up BMW motors and trannys. You might want to check out his rebuilt engines and go for the gusto. I ordered a 2200 sport engine from him 2 months ago. I spoke to Jim for quite a while before ordering it. I was going to rebuild it again myself but after our conversation and considering all the things he does in his rebuilds, I know in my heart that I don't have the time or the expertise to do the same job he would do and I don't feel like taking the engine out again after this. My engine began burning oil right from the get go as I put a set of Deves rings on a set of 9.3/1 KS pistons after I broke one of the stock rings putting one of the pistons in the bore. On top of that I don't think the gap was as tight as it should have been when I measured them down in the bore. I went with it anyway. They did not break in right and I think I also didn't help matter running a too rich mixture for the first thousand miles or so with a poorly setup Megasquirt system. I got all the bugs out and the engine now runs great but burns oil and has a lot of blow by. I have an Innovate AF gauge with Wide band O2 sensor on it now so that over-rich mixture won't happen again. Good luck and do some reading before you go with any forged pistons. They are definitely not all created equal. There are also a lot more choices out there then there were in the early days when guys went with Venolia pistons that clattered like hell until they warmed up and burned oil like crazy. OK if you were racing but not in a street car. Be really careful breaking in your freshly rebuilt engine whoever does it. Make sure your mechanical injection is working properly so the same doesn't happen to you.
  17. I used my Inca car almost everyday but now that winter is coming I will revert to my Ford pickup. Also have my second Estoril car which is restored and I am a little more careful about when and where I go with that one. There are too many bonehead drivers around here that will total your car while they're texting their friends. I am really only weather limited with either car. I am not going to let these two rust into the ground like a couple of other 02's I had when I drove them year round back in the day. I wouldn't drive any car I cared about all winter around here. If I was in a sunny climate I would definitely use the cars all year long.
  18. That is one big mess to deal with. I can understand how you feel. After all the stuff you've been through building that car it doesn't seem fair, but like Tommy says, wait out the winter and formulate a plan to fix in spring. My engine is burning oil because my rings didn't break in right and I have to do that over too. My car runs well enough but is getting a lot of blowby and a leaky rear main seal. I'm going to break down and buy an engine from Jim Rowe this time. I can't take doing this again and screwing it up somehow. I hear he fixes a problem with pressure relief valve bore so that the check valve piston moves freely in the case of overpressure it can bypass properly instead of blowing the filter. He told me they have a tendency to get stuck. He bores out and replaces the aluminum bore with a brass sleeve instead of steel piston in an aluminum bore. That's one thing I would definitely look at when you rebuild. So far I haven't had that problem but I used a new oil pump.
  19. Nice article that Ceppos wrote. I didn’t realize he was an 02 owner
  20. Here is the IMDB photo of my car. Its outside the bar where the driver went to do a drug deal
  21. My Inka car appeared in American Gangster in 2007. It was driven to a bar for a drug deal and parked out in front of the bar. I bought it from a guy who worked building sets for the movie in brooklyn. He bought it from the production company after the movie was done. I got the car in 2011 after the owner got tired of the car and its upkeep. My blue car was in "The Preppie Connection" about a guy at a new england school who managed to run a heroin ring out of his ivy league school. Got $400 for the day and biting my nails every time they opened and closed the door of my car which was about a 100 times! It was shot on the grounds of Sailor's Snug Harbor here on Staten Island.
  22. I love it! It looks great and I'm glad you finally did that car a favor and brought it back in a most beautiful way. Can't wait to see it in person PS.... get a new ID plate made. Nice finishing touch to go with your Verona sticker mike
  23. Is there an issue draining your battery if clock winder fails as it tries to wind the clock over and over again? My friends Bavaria had a quaint little electrical winding device. Probably would drain your battery pretty quickly if it went haywire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. You can use the rubber bushings that fit the lines to the stock master cylinder in the new one you plan to use, whether its a 750 or E12 version or whatever. That way you keep your stock fluid reservoir along with its line's and fittings. I don't think there would be room for a master mounted reservoir anyway between the clearance to the booster and everything else in that vicinity. I would stay stock. I have Wilwoods all around and they definitely need a large bore master cylinder to move the fluid. You still get great pedal feel with those big bore master cylinders provided you really need them to move a large volume of fluid. Using them on stock sized systems is a waste.
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