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tucsondude

Solex
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Everything posted by tucsondude

  1. tonight I put the BMW on jack stands, to bleed the brakes(apparently i dont have a 7mm wrench...)... and now i noticed the door alignment is off??? Any tips how to fix this? In addition I have read there is supposed to be a plastic piece for the latch/striker? Also want to verify my jack and stand points are fine. i used the rear of the rear diff to jack the rear end up, I assume this is fine?
  2. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,381848/ make sure you properly set up the walls.
  3. Pulled the radiator, and fan today, need to go out and buy another 30mm socket so i can turn the crank. protective coating was flaking off, so i decided to gently tap it with a rubber mallet, and then found a hole, i then proceeded to apply a screwdriver/ scraper, and behold. ...Southern Arizona Car... apparently RAT piss is very corrosive, and this is the worse side that was not flaking. Apparently i get to learn about body work now. really hoping its just this panel, and i can just weld some sheet metal instead of replacing the whole panel. motor and suspension are a higher priority.
  4. center caps say thier eagle alloys, thier 13x? with ridiculous offset, and 185/60/13 tires. think thier 13x7. guy i bought them from said he ran them as a daily but since i am only using them to keep the car a roller I do not know if they are balanced properly. once i get the car running i am going to put tires on the other wheels and probably sell the eagles for 100.
  5. today finally did something for the first time in months.... had it towed to my awesome (new to me) garage. emptied out the trunk, wiped it down. found out the windshield wipers are both 16" but two different widths.... anybody know what this thing is?
  6. HIGHLY recommend an auto darkening helmet.
  7. ^ truth. tires will make more than improvement than anything else but then you have to cram 205/50-15s, maybe 195s, and they will only last <10k. if you track atleast every other month, it is cheaper to have a street and track set of tires/wheels.
  8. pep boys good year ftw. Bought it to change tires at the track. also use it to brake nuts loose on my motorcycle. good track tool, cheap enough to if someone walked off with it, it would not be a big deal. they sell for 70-100 depending on the season
  9. Post 2005 vehicles all have 3rd and current gen airbags, so they are 'as safe' as newer ones unless you believe in TPMS and all the other stuff. http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/dtucsondude/?action=view&current=070206_1514a.jpg Not sure how or why i survived this one(stupid 18 yr old) however air bags would not have helped. I flew and rolled a 'slow' 84 corolla for about 100'. Did not need the police or insurance to learn my lesson on that one.
  10. Post 2005 vehicles all have 3rd and current gen airbags, so they are 'as safe' as newer ones unless you believe in TPMS and all the other stuff. http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p150/dtucsondude/?action=view&current=070206_1514a.jpg Not sure how or why i survived this one(stupid 18 yr old) however air bags would not have helped. I flew and rolled a 'slow' 84 corolla for about 100'. Did not need the police or insurance to learn my lesson on that one.
  11. i have not wrenched enough on the 02 for any real input. however my generic tool opinion. -NUT DRIVER best tool ever, get yourself a standard/metric set. -harbor freight 1/2" breaker bar. -best allen wrenches you can buy. -have cheapo and quality screwdrivers, nice stubby (ones that are 1-2 inches -long) screwdrivers too. -rubber mallet and a nice regular hammer. -get a nice floor jack, not the $30 special, and 4 matching jackstands. -I end up pulling or rotating tires every couple of months, so i bought a pepboys 1/2 battery powered impact wrench. <$100 I have a couple of those 'mechanics' tool kits you can buy at autoparts stores/sears, which are great to get you started and 95% chance it is all you will ever need. However I personally will no longer buy tools not made in USA/Wealthier Europe/Japan, excluding a few harbor freight tools. Snap on has recently licensed out their name, so if you buy their stuff make sure its actually made in the USA.
  12. I actually know someone who may be switching back to 56k to save money???? Glad to know you can purchase them. Even if the crimp connectors are $5 it is probably worth the peace of mind and convenience. Even though I am sure BMW etc literally purchased them for around 1 cent or less each.
  13. also posting this here, project for today. Still at war with rats, have half the wiring repaired/replaced, excluding the AC. Started a composition book for notes and a record. HOW TO fix or reuse a broken connector/make connections for your own harness. READ WHOLE POST AND DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH BEFORE TRYING. if you are making your own harness buy AT LEAST 25% more than you need, especially if it is your first time. DISCLAIMER I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY TO PERSON OR PROPERTY ETC, OR NEGLECT OR EXTREME NEGLECT OR MISREPRESENTATION BY MYSELF OR ANYONE ELSE. I ADVISE AGAINST FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE WHERE LIFE LIMB OR INJURY MAY BE POSSIBLE. IT IS A BAD IDEA FOR AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATION, AND COULD LEAD TO DEATH. I ADVISE YOU NOT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE AND USE NEW MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC PARTS IN ANY AND ALL APPLICATIONS, AND A REAL $16,000 CRIMPER. cliffs: if you or someone else DIE, loose a finger, get tetnis, or melt/burn create a fire, brakes fail, charged with arson or another felony, etc, this is not my fault. Sorry for the bad focus, these are tiny. OH NOES (Intake sensor) TOOLS I USED -wire strippers/crimpers -2 small needlenoze pliers, I would recommend finer or skinnier than what I have. -assorted tweezers -precision screw driver set, ie tweezers or miniature pry-bar -wire cutters(not pictured I prefer dikes) -dental pic/diaper pin -hammer/mallet 1ST PROBLEM HOW TO REMOVE CONNECTOR/CONTACT see the 'top' square, from this you may push down on the tab that holds the connector on, the tab can be seen below. I used a 1mm screwdriver, then pushed the connector out with tweezers TYPICAL ANATOMY OF A CONTACT edited from http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/440132-1# A (red)used for crimping insulation for mechanical strength B (blue)used for crimping wire for electrical contact and mechanical strength C (green) where the other male pin from other connector slides in. a properly crimped connector will typically look like part C in the example I have photographed, this is basically impossible by hand. CAREFULLY PRY CONTACT OPEN (for this automotive grade connector from 1972 I spent an hour, on some others it may take 5 minutes) CAUTION MAY BREAK these are not designed to ever be reused or bent. I personally start with the insulation part (A) first, for this use tweezers/ screw driver, you may need to unroll it in which case a diaper pin or dental pic may be handy. It does not need to be unrolled all the way. Random pics NEXT OPEN/ UNROLL wire crimps, carefully these are more important, smaller, and likely more difficult. In this case i had to manually pull and push wire strands out to be able to get leverage to pry. -pics CLEAN WORK for good a good connection. Sorry no pics, I did not bother. RE INSTALL WIRE, -strip fresh(recommended) wire slightly shorter than distance between A and C. you want as much contact as possible without having ANY wire blocking C. -push/place/slide wire through A until the insulation butts up against B. you want as much insulation crimped as possible without affecting B. -CAREFULLY CRIMP B FIRST. The insulation has thickness if you crimp A first it will be difficult to get them to fit or sit low enough into B. I recommend using the crimping tool (top of strippers). needle nose may be required to get B flaps to roll over the wire. You want to simulate a machine as much as possible. Try not to fold the connector as this will likely create breaking. -lightly tug to ensure a good crimp -repeat above steps for A and the insulation. -give a strong tug and twist to ensure no wire breaking or a bad crimp. -use DMM (digital multimeter) to verify connection. TADA DONE WITH THE HARD PART NOTE due to not seeing any 'wings' on B for this connector, and a not so fantastic crimp I added a very small amount of solder. If not done correctly or on smaller pitch the solder will prevent the connector from fitting or functioning correctly and may even cause damage. RE-INSERT connector into connector housing, ensuring PROPER ORIENTATION. Then give light tug to make sure it was installed correctly. LAST OF ALL USE A DMM TO VERIFY CONNECTION. DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING!!! DO NOT RIP YOUR WIRE BACK OUT!!! If you have any input, or find any errors/typos please let me know. This is not intended to have 100% proper grammar. I did not search to see if this was covered. It is late and I did not proofread so great. HAVE FUN!!!
  14. HOW TO fix or reuse a broken connector/make connections for your own harness. READ WHOLE POST AND DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH BEFORE TRYING. if you are making your own harness buy AT LEAST 25% more than you need, especially if it is your first time. You will probably fail at this so be careful and patient. I would not bother if pitch is smaller than 0.1". DISCLAIMER I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY TO PERSON OR PROPERTY ETC, OR NEGLECT OR EXTREME NEGLECT OR MISREPRESENTATION BY MYSELF OR ANYONE ELSE. I ADVISE AGAINST FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE WHERE LIFE LIMB OR INJURY MAY BE POSSIBLE. IT IS A BAD IDEA FOR AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATION, AND COULD LEAD TO DEATH. I ADVISE YOU NOT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE AND USE NEW MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC PARTS IN ANY AND ALL APPLICATIONS, AND A REAL $16,000 CRIMPER. cliffs: if you or someone else DIE, loose a finger, get tetnis, or melt/burn create a fire, brakes fail, charged with arson or another felony, etc, this is not my fault. Sorry for the bad focus, these are tiny. OH NOES (Intake sensor) TOOLS I USED -wire strippers/crimpers -2 small needlenoze pliers, I would recommend finer or skinnier than what I have. -assorted tweezers -precision screw driver set, ie tweezers or miniature pry-bar -wire cutters(not pictured I prefer dikes) -dental pic/diaper pin -hammer/mallet 1ST PROBLEM HOW TO REMOVE CONNECTOR/CONTACT see the 'top' square, from this you may push down on the tab that holds the connector on, the tab can be seen below. I used a 1mm screwdriver, then pushed the connector out with tweezers TYPICAL ANATOMY OF A CONTACT edited from http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/440132-1# A (red)used for crimping insulation for mechanical strength B (blue)used for crimping wire for electrical contact and mechanical strength C (green) where the other male pin from other connector slides in. a properly crimped connector will typically look like part C in the example I have photographed, this is basically impossible by hand. CAREFULLY PRY CONTACT OPEN (for this automotive grade connector from 1972 I spent an hour, on some others it may take 5 minutes) CAUTION MAY BREAK these are not designed to ever be reused or bent. I personally start with the insulation part (A) first, for this use tweezers/ screw driver, you may need to unroll it in which case a diaper pin or dental pic may be handy. It does not need to be unrolled all the way. Random pics NEXT OPEN/ UNROLL wire crimps, carefully these are more important, smaller, and likely more difficult. In this case i had to manually pull and push wire strands out to be able to get leverage to pry. -pics CLEAN WORK for good a good connection. Sorry no pics, I did not bother. RE INSTALL WIRE, -strip fresh(recommended) wire slightly shorter than distance between A and C. you want as much contact as possible without having ANY wire blocking C. -push/place/slide wire through A until the insulation butts up against B. you want as much insulation crimped as possible without affecting B. -CAREFULLY CRIMP B FIRST. The insulation has thickness if you crimp A first it will be difficult to get them to fit or sit low enough into B. I recommend using the crimping tool (top of strippers). needle nose may be required to get B flaps to roll over the wire. You want to simulate a machine as much as possible. Try not to fold the connector as this will likely create breaking. -lightly tug to ensure a good crimp -repeat above steps for A and the insulation. -give a strong tug and twist to ensure no wire breaking or a bad crimp. -use DMM (digital multimeter) to verify connection. TADA DONE WITH THE HARD PART NOTE due to not seeing any 'wings' on B for this connector, and a not so fantastic crimp I added a very small amount of solder. If not done correctly or on smaller pitch the solder will prevent the connector from fitting or functioning correctly and may even cause damage. RE-INSERT connector into connector housing, ensuring PROPER ORIENTATION. Then give light tug to make sure it was installed correctly. LAST OF ALL USE A DMM TO VERIFY CONNECTION. DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING!!! DO NOT RIP YOUR WIRE BACK OUT!!! If you have any input, or find any errors/typos please let me know. This is not intended to have 100% proper grammar. I did not search to see if this was covered. It is late and I did not proofread so great. Please let me know of any errors or recommendations. HAVE FUN!!!
  15. HOW TO fix or reuse a broken connector/make connections for your own harness. READ WHOLE POST AND DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH BEFORE TRYING. if you are making your own harness buy AT LEAST 25% more than you need, especially if it is your first time. DISCLAIMER I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY TO PERSON OR PROPERTY ETC, OR NEGLECT OR EXTREME NEGLECT OR MISREPRESENTATION BY MYSELF OR ANYONE ELSE. I ADVISE AGAINST FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE WHERE LIFE LIMB OR INJURY MAY BE POSSIBLE. IT IS A BAD IDEA FOR AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATION, AND COULD LEAD TO DEATH. I ADVISE YOU NOT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE AND USE NEW MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC PARTS IN ANY AND ALL APPLICATIONS, AND A REAL $16,000 CRIMPER. cliffs: if you or someone else DIE, loose a finger, get tetnis, or melt/burn create a fire, brakes fail, charged with arson or another felony, etc, this is not my fault. Sorry for the bad focus, these are tiny. OH NOES (Intake sensor) TOOLS I USED -wire strippers/crimpers -2 small needlenoze pliers, I would recommend finer or skinnier than what I have. -assorted tweezers -precision screw driver set, ie tweezers or miniature pry-bar -wire cutters(not pictured I prefer dikes) -dental pic/diaper pin -hammer/mallet 1ST PROBLEM HOW TO REMOVE CONNECTOR/CONTACT see the 'top' square, from this you may push down on the tab that holds the connector on, the tab can be seen below. I used a 1mm screwdriver, then pushed the connector out with tweezers TYPICAL ANATOMY OF A CONTACT edited from http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/440132-1# A (red)used for crimping insulation for mechanical strength B (blue)used for crimping wire for electrical contact and mechanical strength C (green) where the other male pin from other connector slides in. a properly crimped connector will typically look like part C in the example I have photographed, this is basically impossible by hand. CAREFULLY PRY CONTACT OPEN (for this automotive grade connector from 1972 I spent an hour, on some others it may take 5 minutes) CAUTION MAY BREAK these are not designed to ever be reused or bent. I personally start with the insulation part (A) first, for this use tweezers/ screw driver, you may need to unroll it in which case a diaper pin or dental pic may be handy. It does not need to be unrolled all the way. Random pics NEXT OPEN/ UNROLL wire crimps, carefully these are more important, smaller, and likely more difficult. In this case i had to manually pull and push wire strands out to be able to get leverage to pry. -pics CLEAN WORK for good a good connection. Sorry no pics, I did not bother. RE INSTALL WIRE, -strip fresh(recommended) wire slightly shorter than distance between A and C. you want as much contact as possible without having ANY wire blocking C. -push/place/slide wire through A until the insulation butts up against B. you want as much insulation crimped as possible without affecting B. -CAREFULLY CRIMP B FIRST. The insulation has thickness if you crimp A first it will be difficult to get them to fit or sit low enough into B. I recommend using the crimping tool (top of strippers). needle nose may be required to get B flaps to roll over the wire. You want to simulate a machine as much as possible. Try not to fold the connector as this will likely create breaking. -lightly tug to ensure a good crimp -repeat above steps for A and the insulation. -give a strong tug and twist to ensure no wire breaking or a bad crimp. -use DMM (digital multimeter) to verify connection. TADA DONE WITH THE HARD PART NOTE due to not seeing any 'wings' on B for this connector, and a not so fantastic crimp I added a very small amount of solder. If not done correctly or on smaller pitch the solder will prevent the connector from fitting or functioning correctly and may even cause damage. RE-INSERT connector into connector housing, ensuring PROPER ORIENTATION. Then give light tug to make sure it was installed correctly. LAST OF ALL USE A DMM TO VERIFY CONNECTION. DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING!!! DO NOT RIP YOUR WIRE BACK OUT!!! If you have any input, or find any errors/typos please let me know. This is not intended to have 100% proper grammar. HAVE FUN!!!
  16. maybe this is a little clearer, right at the firewall grommet The white stuff is very likely rat piss..... car has not ran in 15 years, pulled 5 wheelbarrels worth of crap from bay. I still have not gotten rid of the rat. Apparently, it is stronger than mouse traps, resorting to poison tonight. edit: arrow is pointing down, this is on the left(driver) side at the engine bay side of the firewall.
  17. Ok so I have repairing rat damage on the rest of the harness under control with my soldering iron. Not sure how to tackle the picture below, since its right next to the fire wall and there is no slack to work with. Wires are still intact and barely frayed, so I was debating just wrapping them individually. Anyone have any tips or tricks to make my life easier?
  18. going to make this thread a log. Today waged war on rats with traps, and pulled the spark plugs and used a bendy straw to put Marvel mystery oil and wd40 in the cylinders. going to do this again on thursday, and maybe next Tuesday try turning it over. Thursday also going to start hacking up the wiring harness and busting out the hakko 936, to repair some of the rats damage. All the rubber is shot, including the piece from the gas tank to the cap, I am also pretty sure the front windshield is de-laminating itself. Interior appears to stay dry though. wiper/turn/headlight switches on the steering column all broke off at the hinge too... oh and there is some hardcore surface rust in a few places even if this is the desert. I was told those are 13x7 wheels, and yes they have a ridiculous offset, no clue who would actually use them, currently have 185/65/13 rubber super stretched on there. I do not think that I will be keeping them, as i am pretty sure I wont be able to corner with them without chopping up the fenders, id love to be able to run some 205 xx 13 rubber though.
  19. I do not know anything about 2002 clusters. however on my last motorcycle I had similar issues, that were caused by the cable partially unscrewing itself from the gauges. Just tightened it up and was good to go.
  20. 4 lazy days(month) in: steering rack works, brakes can apply drag, $80 craigslist wheels/tires. yes I still have the alloys. butterfly windows will open. already got all the pack rat stuff out of the bay, no pics. NEXT: -find someone to copy trunk key. -buy marvel mystery oil for some prelube. -figure out how to turn the engine and check if siezed.
  21. 2002 tii Dad parked 15+ years ago, because the KF was leaking gas... please no picture quoting as it sat at first:
  22. tucsondude

    test b

    alknv;in see belasonva ibib
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