Jump to content

dmrice

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    37

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by dmrice

  1. dmrice
    How old are the tires? Did you have to run any spacers on the front to keep from rubbing the strut?
  2. dmrice
    Forgot to mention above, you will also want the replace the expansion valve on the evaporator should you get a used one.
  3. dmrice
    I put it in mine last year from scratch and I can't remember exactly what the total was but I'd say at least $1000 all said and done. There is nothing extremely hard about it but lots of little fitment things that added up for me. Putting the condenser and fan up front was probably the most time intensive. If you go R134 as I did you will want as big a parallel flow condenser and electric fan as you can get up front. I went with an 11x18 one (have to remove bottom of passenger horn bracket to fit in) and 10" fan I got from nostalgic air along with a sanden compressor and the rest of the hoses and fittings and the electric fan wiring harness. Then you either have to pay to get your hoses crimped or buy a crimper. Need to find a solid evaporator and console which vary in cost depending on what you want. And, hobiedave (who you can find on this forum) has the compressor bracket you will want for about $100 or so. And you will need 2-3 cans of freon, vacuum pump and a/c manifold gauges to charge.
  4. dmrice
    I use an Innovate MTX-L and have been very happy with it. Got a pretty good price for it on Amazon.
  5. dmrice
    +1 on the wideband O2 meter. I have the weber book and the dellorto and weber power book and have enjoyed reading both and I think they may be helpful in learning about carbs and rebuilding, but I tuned a Weber 38/38 and got 27+mpg on the highway, no hesitations anywhere and great acceleration. Now I am tuning a couple of Dellorto 40s and I can 'see' right where the issues are so I can make the right adjustments without guessing.
  6. dmrice
    Actually, Mobil 1 15W-50 has about as a relatively high ZDDP content and is recommended for flat tappet valves, but perhaps after break-in.
  7. dmrice
    If you still have a set left, I'll take one too.
  8. dmrice
    I'm about to use the same bolts, although I got them from Autohausaz on Monday and will report back then.
  9. dmrice
    email sent on waterneck without port
  10. dmrice
    I run 185/65-14 on mine. I think this is size is supposed to be closer to the correct diameter than 185/60-14.
  11. dmrice
    So here's what I've noticed about the guys saying go mechanical is that they mostly seem to live in cooler climates (Seattle, Conn) than AZ or TX where I live. I am struggling with a mech fuel pump on the 100 degree days. If I try to go above 60 it starts trying to vapor lock on me and I have to back off. I've got extra insulation on my fuel line from the firewall to the pump and the filter is downstream of the pump and I am still having issues and I routed a duct from the cold air inlet straight to the pump so it is getting cool air blowing over it when I'm moving but with A/C and headers and high temps, the engine compartment just seems to be getting too hot for the pump to be able to suck fuel at higher volumes. I am about to try a low pressure pump in the trunk and will report back.
  12. dmrice
    I think I spent around $700 for all the parts exclusive of the evaporator. It is fairly intensive work if the car never had A/C before. All the little fitment issues for console hoses through the firewall and the front of the engine bay, mounting the condenser. I took a week off at spring break and spent the good part of it for most of the install but I was also installing a new water pump, hoses, and thermostat while I had the radiator out and i also replaced the exhaust and header.
  13. dmrice
    I guess I should add, I got the original york compressor and behemoth bracket and the condenser from the parts car also, but found out later that it is better to use a more efficient Sanden compressor. You can get a Sanden adapter for the york bracket but it only makes a very heavy bracket heavier. I opted for the HobieDave bracket as it provides a much lighter and cleaner installation. I also went with an 11x19 parallel flow condenser along with a 10" fan to ensure adequate cooling with R134a refrigerant. Seems to be doing the job.
  14. dmrice
    Just did one this spring. Got compressor bracket from HobieDave (you can find him here on the FAQ) and other parts from Nostalgic Air Parts (which I think is somewhere near you in Florida), and an evaporator console from a parts car. It was almost 100 here in Dallas yesterday and she was keeping me nice and cool!
  15. dmrice
    Before I bought my 2002 last summer I checked around on the internet and it seemed to be well supported with parts and advice so I made the plunge. I must say that I have found this to be true especially this spring as I made a number of improvements and replacements to my car. I have had nothing but great experience with all the '02 vendors I have used and would heartily recommend them to anyone. I know this is a small market and most of these vendors are in it more to help the community than to make huge sums of money. I'd like to specifically mention some - 02Again - Header and Downpipe - Looks good and works well IE - SS Exhaust sounds nice and new hoses look sharp HobieDave - A/C Compressor Bracket - fit perfectly Blunt - Misc parts all delivered correctly Rogerstii - Misc parts all delivered correctly AutohausAZ - Misc parts all delivered correctly BavAuto - Misc parts all delivered correctly 2002s.net - nice bright tail lights. I had an issue with my car where I was stuck on a highway service road on a bright summer day last week but with the bright hazard blinkers going I wasn't so worried about getting rear ended. And thanks also to all you on the FAQ who have helped me in times of trouble. I am enjoying 'Otto' so much more because of all of you.
  16. dmrice
    25mpg on the highway - I do have o2again headers and IE exhaust so maybe that affects the jet size.
  17. dmrice
    Just for the record - Filter on pumping side, 57 idles, 150 mains, 185 ac (stock - I haven't tuned the ac's). A/F mixture on idles is around 12 and 13.5 on mains. And to restate, car accelerates great with no hesitations for about 10 seconds and then A/F goes to max. lean., I have to back off on the accelerator (I assume to let the float bowl fill back up) and then all returns to normal as I stay at cruising speed (this typically happens when I am getting on the entrance ramp of the freeway - if I moderately accelerate, all is well, but if I floor it then I get the issue). Has anyone tried using the return line as the supply instead? I thought about that just as an alternate to see if the main supply line was an issue.
  18. dmrice
    I did replace the fuel filter albeit with the same type. Perhaps the plastic bosch filter is under sized. I did cut off the small ends and put larger tubing on the larger part next to the filter body with the same results. Maybe the filter itself is too restrictive. Any recommendations for filters?
  19. dmrice
    I was having similar issues and I finally figured out (after bleeding several times) I needed to adjust the clutch pedal out a little bit so it would push the master in more. I didn't really think about the clutch pedal adjustment when I was installing the master and left it where it was. It worked for a while but then started grinding probably as the new wore off it didn't quite push as far. Noticed the clutch pedal was slightly in from where the brake pedal was so I took off the pedal and unscrewed the eyebolt a few turns where the clutch pedal was slightly out from the brake pedal and it works great now.
  20. dmrice
    I have a weber 38/38 carb which I seems to be jetted properly through the rpm range according to my wb02 meter. It runs great under normal driving but I am having an issue on WOT acceleration where it does fine for about 10 seconds and then it seems to run out of gas (literally) according to the wb02 meter. The fuel pump seems to be ok (it did the same thing with the old one and the new one I put on recently). Could this be a float level issue? The carb is only about 3 months old and it seems to have been doing this ever since I got it. Any suggestions?
  21. dmrice
    Well, I ran the numbers and he must have done it with 121 cubic inches but typed 2000cc. The cfm calculated above is correct when you do it with 121.
  22. dmrice
    i found the formula used above with an internet search and the displacement used is in cubic inches so 121 should be used for the displacement instead of 2000, I think.
  23. dmrice
    Wouldn't the numbers be halved since each cylinder only sucks in air every other revolution?
  24. dmrice
    I suspect you are right. And it answers my question as to the 'old' days. I didn't remember cars smelling like that (although I'm not sure I could remember what they smelled like!?!) but with the new blends today maybe so. I may also may benefit from rebuilding the carburetor. I think the smell is coming back in when I am stopped through the heater blower after the exhaust makes its way back to the engine compartment. Although, I will do a thorough check of the exhaust system just to be sure. And, my leather shift boot is leaking. I have a rubber one I need to put on along with everything else.
  25. dmrice
    I suspect you are right. And it answers my question as to the 'old' days. I didn't remember cars smelling like that (although I'm not sure I could remember what they smelled like!?!) but with the new blends today maybe so. I may also may benefit from rebuilding the carburetor. I think the smell is coming back in when I am stopped through the heater blower after the exhaust makes its way back to the engine compartment. Although, I will do a thorough check of the exhaust system just to be sure. And, my leather shift boot is leaking. I have a rubber one I need to put on along with everything else.
×
×
  • Create New...