Stevenola

My bad. For m10 it appears blue will work. Good advice to check the blue wire ground. I have mine wired directly to the negative battery terminal.

Are you able to read the 123 on your phone yet? Try a hard reset per the instruction manual. Also, not sure this is your problem, but 123 does not recommend an internally resisted coil like a Bosch blue one.

The 123 has by default, I believe, 0 degrees advance while cranking, 500rpm is the earliest you can tell it what advance you want. Yes, bracket the idle advance setting you want like I mentioned above. I have my bracket from 500 to 1100 because I want 1000 rpm at idle and want the advance also in at 500 to help with idle quality while the engine warms up. Then put in the number of the rpm you want the advance to be all in at (like 34 degrees at 3000 rpm), then straight across to the redline. Your all in number and red line number will be the same. Any way you want it to. I have 12 degrees of vacuum advance pulling from manifold vacuum ports so I get that plus 33 mechanical for 45 total at cruise. By using manifold vacuum you can set it to add advance at idle which I do, or higher rpm off the idle if you want to simulate ported vacuum. The cruise advance is set after road testing to see what vacuum your engine pulls at cruise, just make sure your MAP curve doesn't drop out at a vacuum higher than your engine is at cruise. But make sure it drops out before your engine goes under load so it doesn't ping. There is a sweet spot here found by road testing in all gears and different driving conditions, then choose an appropriate MAP to cover how you drive. I have vacuum advance drop out at 2.5 Hg to zero at WOT.

Also you have too many unneeded data points, take out any in between straight lines like points 3, 6, 7, & 8 so the processor doesn't need to work so hard. Also, bracket your desired idle rpm with data points slightly higher and lower so the engine doesn't hunt as advance changes with slight variations in rpm. For example, if you want your idle to be 900 at 8 degrees advance, have your data points be at 8 degrees at 800 and 8 degrees at 1000.

The plastic that receives the lock barrel insert had crumbled, fixed it with JB Weld then when testing it, it coughed up the detent ball and spring out of the hole. Time to move on...

You shouldn't be using an internally resisted Blue coil with a 123, they recommend a Bosch red coil (or equivalent) and no ballast resistor. If your blue coil is resisted, the 123 will not be getting full 12v.

If you want to go new, Mouser has everything you need, including new pins if the snipped one is not salvageable or don't want to risk direct 12v on an old connector. The housings are made by TE Connectivity and are called Mate-N-Lok.

Ok so then with your vacumm disconnected and plugged, you would confirm with a timing light that your max advance is 30 degrees at 3500 rpm, if not then adjust accordingly. Once set then connect your (ported) vacuum line. I would also consider using curve #2, it puts the max advance in earlier (2400 vs 3500 rpm), if so then you would set max advance as above but with 30 degrees at 2400 rpm. In either case, vacuum advance adds 10 degrees to this.

Which Weber(s) and are your running vacuum advance?

Which map curve are you switched to (0-9, A-F) ?

The vacuum curve is engine specific, you'd have to decide how much advance you want to add while not under load when cruising, for this check the distributor specs for your engine. I have sidedrafts with vacuum ports but I am currently not running any vacuum MAP curve, I experimented with various curves but in reality I couldn't determined that they made any difference in mpg. If you want to add a vacuum curve for say an additional 8 degrees advance, it would look something like this: The advance kicks in at high vacuum/low load range of 21-79 kP. What is critical to do is adjust the drop out values (in this example at 80 kP it removes the advance) so that you are not adding advance under load. This can only be determined by driving your car and observing how much throttle it takes to get the vacuum to drop out when you mash the accelerator pedal, you want to get the advance to drop out (go to 0) before your engine goes into max load/low vacuum in order to avoid detonation. The area from 80-100 kP represents full load/WOT. In order to keep the vacuum advance from activating too early, I set the ignore MAP to 2500 rpm or so, this will make it available at cruising range and not mess with your accel from off-idle and low revs. Final tweaking is done in top gear as this will be be when this is used the most, and you want to set it so it is not too sensitive to minor pedal changes at speed.

I have found it beneficial to bracket the desired idle rpm with the same advance amount. For example, if you want to idle at 950 at 10 degrees, put the 10 degree point on an upper and lower range like 900 and 1000, this will prevent the advance from compensating by advancing or retarding based on slight fluctuations up and down in idle. This elimintes "hunting" and results in a smoother idle. Here is an example based on 1000 idle rpm and 15 degrees advance:

Run as is and verify the two are equal

You need to physically verify that the 123 curve matches the actual timing on the flywheel. For example, if your 123 timing at idle is 10 degrees BTC, you must take a timing light and confirm this is the same at the flywheel. Get a dial back light and set it to 10 degrees (or whatever your curve is) and rotate the distributor until the TO ball is in the window (not the Z ball). This will confirm your timing is actually what the curve says it is and you're good to go. Also, you should bracket your idle timing by a couple hundred rpm to avoid any idle fluctuation issues, for example if you want to idle at 10 degrees advance at 950 rpm, make sure the graph points are 10 degrees from 850-1050 rpm.

So taking this a step further, for 10% ethanol fuel, what would stoich be? 14.3? And if 12.5:1 is the commonly accepted target for max power, what wold this number be with E10 ethanol gas? 12.2 or so?

6 pin diagnostic socket: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-480273-0?qs=ko0lFLRalIMvy3LbWEI%2BGw%3D%3D 9 pin diagnostic socket: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-171197-0?qs=28ld6GkVMjRNiDnS%2FwDLfg%3D%3D They also have the pins if you need them.

Delays and lack of communication notwithstanding, what are the opinions on Ireland's bearings (main and rod) vs the usual (Glyco et al)? Ireland claims a special coating - what do the experts here recommend? On a side note, anyone installed their crank scraper/oil windage tray? Thanks.

Confirm with the timing light that the idle advance equals the amount on your 123 curve, if not, rotate the distributor until it does. Then you're done.

Rubber for me, stopped all odors and seepage, more forgiving on the surfaces, for me worth the xtra $$

Layne makes great stuff: M-10/S-14 BMW Sanden bracket LCWYLIECO.BIGCARTEL.COM Replace your inefficient, expensive, and hard to find OEM air conditioning compressor with a modern Sanden style unit. Please specify your engine...

When replacing the upper timing cover there are 2 spots where the head gasket meets the head that sealer is supposed to be used. Frequently overlooked and a cause of leaks. Also there is a tightening sequence to follow.

Definitely a Petri, there might be a stamp on the inside of the hub (will have to disassemble the components - careful because those purty phillips head screws will likely suffer damage if you try to remove them). Great Petri article.

123's are great with Weber sidedrafts because you can set the throttle plates to precisley cover the first progression holes (to eliminate the dreaded off-idle hesitation) then use the adjustable advance curve feature to tweak the final idle rpm to where you want. This will also help you select the proper idle jets because you won't be drawing extra mixture past the 1st progression hole at idle. The adjustable curve is also helpful because sidedrafts seem to respond well to higher idle advance, steeper advance curves, and being all in around 3k rpm, all easily adjustable from your phone. You can disable the distributor via the app so the car can't be started. The 123 makes mechanical advance obsolete. Get one with the oil scroll machined into the shaft just in case. No need for vacuum although it has the option of adding a MAP curve for additional cruise advance if your webers have a vacuum source (most don't, my DCOM's have both ported and manifold taps).

Tamiya model paint, code TS-34 Camel Yellow. I don't remember if I primed/etched it (probably not), I just respray when needed. Not the most durable if abused like @0257 is known to do 😁 , but the color is spot on.

Here's my idle a/c solenoid, for an M30 but it may give you some ideas: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/a-c-idle-solenoid-install.12691/