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About Henrygabs

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  1. hi henry my name is tony and i have lots of bmw parts for sale bbs style  wide body setand some heads for m10 ,block fenders stock and turbo by turboglass a 320 complete front suspension a bavaria front suspension some lights had a shop years ago and need to move some of the stuff on thats what the wide body kit looks like i sold them for years as turboglass have a head tool also for m10 the pix of the red car was my baby and has been in the garage for 30 yrs and needs to ride again turbo is off took it apart to buff the manifolds again and its been sitting thanks tony



    bmw wide 2.jpg

    bmw wide body 1.jpg

  2. Hi Northeast FAQers! I'm looking for a car enthusiast in need of some garage space in northeast Connecticut. I have a garage space in Bethlehem CT that I share with a few buds for wrenching on our 2002 race cars, restoration projects and drinking beer on a Saturday night. One of our esteemed faq colleagues relocated and moved his cars closer to home. So, this leaves us with some space that we are hoping to fill with a car enthusiast who needs a place to wrench or hide a project from a significant other and can contribute some $ towards the rent. All car people would be welcome, but an 2002 fan would probably get the most out of it since you'd be sharing space with some 02 guys. Quite a few FAQers have come through to wrench on a race weekend, pick up a spare part or talk shop and have a beer. The shop has a decent amount of work space, we fit about 6-8 cars in the garage. We also have an office area that we use for indoor parts storage. Also, there is a nice parking space outside where we keep a couple parts cars and race trailer. Some pics of the shop over the years are below. If you or someone you know is in need of some space and interested, send me a message and we can share contact info. Cheers! Henry
  3. Sad news. Had quite a few race weekends at Loudon where we needed parts and they would stash them in a bush near Bavauto hq so we could pick up after hours. I would have appreciated it if they would have finished fulfilling my order before turning off all communication with the outside world. I received a partial shipment of an order right befor they went out of business and have yet to hear about the remainder or a refund. It’s only 75$ but come on. If you’re going to close shop don’t F your employees and customers on the way out.
  4. This just might have to be my father's day gift to myself. Interested and ready to haul it out. Direct messaging you to set up a time to swing by. Henry
  5. I need a no rust (surface rust ok but definately no seam rust/rot) hood, trunk lid, both front fenders and driver-side door. I'm in CT and prefer pick-up in area (nearby NY, north NJ, CT, MA) because working on a tight schedule. Please PM me with what you have and price you're asking. Thanks, Henry
  6. For Sale: Set of four slotted wheels. 13x5.5 4X100. $150 OBO. Unknown origin, made in USA, probably aftermarket VW wheels. Let me know if you have any idea as to the manufacturer. Clean up nicely with a little scrub from a rag (as you can see from the pic). Picture of one wheel is representative of the other three wheels (all four are in good shape). Wheels are located in 06751. Or i can meet in either 06807 or 10601 with some advance notice. Pick-up only, unless you want to coordinate shipping. Spax springs. 75$ obo + shipping from 06751. The two front springs had 1 coil removed by previous owner. The two rear springs are not cut. Nice stiff springs, check internet for spring rates and details. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers, Henry
  7. Hood for sale. I'd say its a very presentable hood. Outer surface has a few scratches and could use a touch up, but generally in good condition. Some rust near the seam in the front driver's side corner. Picture shows the rust. PO covered it in copious amounts of bondo and unfortunately it is not good enough for the full resto I'm working on. Otherwise in good condition. $250. Willing to negotiate on price if negotiation involves a six pack of good German beer. Local pick-up in Bethlehem CT preferred, or we might be able to arrange pick up in Greenwich, CT. If interested, I have a few other hoods that have more excessive rust in the front seams. Willing to let those go for cheaper. Pics upon request. Cheers, Henry
  8. (FOUND/BOUGHT) Lost a front dust boot for Bilstein HD front shock. Car rides uneven without it... just kidding. Just doesn't look as fresh. If anyone has one relatively clean Bilstein blue dust boot laying around and willing to sell, please let me know. Ship to 06878. Cheers. H
  9. PMd. Interested, located in Connecticut. Looking forward to pictures. Cheers, H
  10. No photos yet, but have demonstration of brakes in action! (note, not my in-car footage, I'm in the alpina themed 02) http://www.tubechop.com/watch/8516116
  11. NickVyse, the only stock Brake MC option that I found that had a vertical flange was off of a 1600/early 2002 that had the mechanical clutch and BMC mounted directly to the pedal box. It is NLA. I have that old MC on hand, but I didn't have time to get it rebuilt and possibly re-sized. The MC you noted had a horizontal flange Another nice mod by Lee... looks like he made the mounting plate a bit wider and/or relocated the clutch MC to provide some additional room. Its a nice setup (as usual from Lee) and beneficial in that there are many more BMC options with that horizontal flange setup. I like the banjo fittings too, my guess is they can be found at summit racing. Interference with steering can be avoided by raising the master slightly. Raising the MC and corresponding mounting point on the pedal arm is done at the expense of pedal ratio. However, with many more BMC options to chose from you could size the bore to accommodate the decrease in pedal ratio. Thanks again for the input. H
  12. Thanks for the feedback Toby and Fred. We didn't end up fiddling much with the prop valve. It is a glorified splitter right now. I used the willwood combination prop valve because it split the single front input into two front outs and 1-1 rear line in/out. The bias seemed good enough and it was wet all weekend long at NHMS, which made it difficult to reliably evaluate the braking. At some point we will upgrade to rear VW discs, which should make the valve more useful. I'm hoping that we wont have to revise the MC selection at that point. Fred, yes the MC from the colt had top outlets. (I edited the original post to reflect that side or top outlets are preferable). I searched the ATE catalog extensively looking for a suitable MC that was stubby and had multi-circuits. I found a few candidates that were stubby multi-circuit MCs (often referred to as the "plunger TMC" style). Check out this helpful ATE tool to find MCs by length, and # of connections, enjoy! (http://partfinder.ate-classic.de/eng/start#Master-Cylinder/search). Ultimately, I wasn't comfortable enough with my understanding of the different MC designs to try an MC from a newer model car (e.g., the difference between MCs for boosted cars and non-boosted cars, whats the difference between ABS vs. non-abs MCs, etc.). I went with the Plymouth/dodge because some classic Datsun guys identified it as a boosterless MC alternative and I figured the 02 application was analogous. It was also $60 vs. a couple hundred. Although, there is no price on safety. I will take some pictures the next time I am at my shop, which might be a week or two.
  13. Just wanted to provide some information about my boosterless brake set-up, which was recently race-tested worked great. Hope the info helps others avoid the rabbit hole that consumed a metric $#!+ load of my time. Background: Went boosterless in the lemons race car because we want to free up some space in the engine bay for an air box and have more direct braking feel. Went with the direct to pedal box mounting approach since it is the most cost-effective and lemony approach. We also wanted to run a tandem master cylinder. We’re running Volvo calipers up front and have 320 drums in back. The challenge was finding an MC that: A. Is a tandem MC. (subby single outlet MC are easy to find: Tilton) B. Has a vertical flange. The pedal box has little space next to clutch master to accommodate an MC with a horizontal flange C. Has side or top outlets. MCs with bottom outlets (e.g., the willwood tandem master and many others) interfere with the steering arm. Outlets should preferably be on the right side to avoid Clutch MC. D. Has the right size bore. Bore sizing was a difficult to ascertain. Lots of conflicting information and opinions and calculators telling you 17 different sizes. Ultimately, there is not much that fits the bill. I ended up using a 7/8” bore MC from a 1978-1980 Dodge Colt/ Plymouth Sapporo / Galant. (yeah, random). It was mounted slightly higher than the clutch master to avoid interference with steering arm. Drilled brake pedal arm to connect clevis level with the MC (probably a 4-1 lever ratio, not high). We also used a Willwood proportioning valve but didn't do much fiddling with that yet. Results: Great feel. Takes some effort over the boosted setup but its not excessive. Even the old timers liked the feel of the brakes. We ran it on the track for two hour stints all weekend long and brakes worked great. Never got tired and never doubted whether we could get the car to stop when late braking at the end of the front strait. One possible alternative is a ¾” bore MC from a 1968-1974.5 MGB (the Non-Servo Dual Line Cylinder version). Should provide a softer pedal feel, but I did not test this out. (Also has left side outlets, which is not ideal. Might work with banjo fittings). Other than the two options mentioned, I didn't find any other decent alternatives that met points ABCD above. It was a real PITA to find an MC and I'm lucky to have found something workable at the outset. It would be helpful to have options ranging from 3/4 up to 1" for alternative brake configurations. So, if anyone has any additional suggestions, feel free to chime in and drop some knowledge. Cheers!
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