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PaulTWinterton

Solex
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Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. The dreaded last inch. It may appear that the engine needs to be lifted at the front to make the gap between the block and transmission equal all round but it is also necessary to raise the rear of the tranny. You must consider a couple of things 1) getting the bellhousing past the center link, and 2) the gearshift base proximity to the hole in the tunnel must be very close. Aligning the engine and tranny as close as possible to their final position will greatly increase your chances of a quicker mating, IMHO. IIRC, one half inch gap all round should be enough to allow you to turn the output shaft of the transmission while in gear so that the input splines rotate to line up and push the transmission forward the last half inch. I hope some of that helps.
  2. AFAIR, the spring goes behind the vinyl, with the larger diameter facing outward. The disk is on the outside of the vinyl and then the knob.
  3. Every old car that I've owned got a plastic bag over the dizzy before pressure washing the engine. You would think that a shop would know that. As said, plug wells could have standing water in them. Should be easy to blow out. Good luck.
  4. 72s did not have the cutout. I too think this is a nice car and worth 50k. Almost got there.
  5. If you want to sell it someday, you'll attract more buyers if it's in the original color, IMHO. Personally, I prefer original color myself, even if it is not my favorite.
  6. Great info. If only I understood it. Let's see... ( Bosch / Singapore) turn the key and you get extra fuel to start the engine. Once it starts the fuel consumption comes down as more air is introduced and the WUR is disabled. Then you step on it and fuel consumption goes up by a reasonable amount. Doesn't really jive with the PFI chart. 15:1 certainly seems likely. I've always thought that the original settings were lean. Sorry, I don't have any other pump data. Maybe others do.
  7. Nice! @Ken Blaschke has the all black strut dust covers if you want.
  8. I recall having a recurring leak at the valve inlet. Of course I was using generic hose because I couldn't justify buying 2 inches of hose from BMW. Took me a while to figure the issue. This was one of those times that buying OE was required...although reluctantly. Haven't looked back.
  9. I'm with @zinz. Although, I've also become partial to Inka over the years.
  10. I sat in on a bench test of a KF pump and was shown the large clock spring on the inside rear of the pump. As I recall it had adjustment capability that affected the milliliters of fuel used at various rpms. Wes Ingram uses this adjustment to set volumes used to factory spec. Having said that I can't qualify my statement because that's the only information I have and it was a long time ago.
  11. Fairchilds seems to be a well-kept secret. Well worth a call to Robert (grandson of Jerry) to schedule a refresh. He's great to work with.
  12. Because the top end is fuel lubricated, I'd fill it with a gas/fuel stabilizer cocktail and seal the inlets and outlets before storage. When fuel evaporates, I believe it is replaced with moist air. Changes in temperature don't help. "Fuel stabilizer bonds with gasoline to prevent evaporation. " https://www.berrymanproducts.com/fuel-stabilizer/ or sta-bil But fuel stabilizer, just like in the gas tank will combat moisture and keep the suction and delivery valves lubricated for longer. A desiccant bag in the storage will keep moisture away from the outside as well. https://www.concrobium.com/en-can/products/moisture-grabbers/
  13. Can't really see what your problem is in the photos other than the stud should be (locktited) in the head, not forced through the manifold with the nut on it. Remove the nut. Put the stud in the head and attach the shield and manifold. Does that help?
  14. @BarneyTwhat do you mean "picked up your car" ? Did you rent an 02?
  15. Interesting scenario: When setting the cold start enrichment, the manual says to elevate the WUR rod and hold it in the elevated position with the special tool. Having a tii in a northern climate I've seen the WUR piston/rod recessed 2-3mm when the car sits in near freezing conditions. Hence the need to elevate and hold with the "Retaining Plate" special tool to set the fuel enrichment gap to 2.6mm at a benchmark position. When the special tool is removed the 2.6mm gap increases (in cold weather). See the following experiments at 35°F, 60°F and 175°F
  16. Go @dlacey! It would be very cool if you discovered a source for that piece. Thanks for the efforts.
  17. No. Owners have been replacing 2pc dashes with 1pc later ones without issue.
  18. Yes, that 1 piece carpet is an issue with the later cars. I do see that your clutch pedal looks a bit proud. Too bad your carpet is so nice, otherwise you could replace it with an Esty carpet kit. Look at it this way. While the console is out you can inspect the pedal box for leaks and maybe add an AFR gauge for tuning the tii, if it doesn't already have one.
  19. Nice cars, both. I'll only make one comment. Cocomats! Cocomats.com Welcome back to 02 (and tii) ownership. Cheers!
  20. @dlacey Wes Ingram's shop reconditions WURs. AFAIK, the thermostat is NLA, so a rebuild is usually just dismantling, cleaning and here's the most significant part...replacing the rubber seal between the upper air chamber and the lower water chamber. I've seen that seal removed and it's just a think rubber washer. Hard to see in your picture, but I've seen the mangled, deteriorated remains on the work bench. The replacement being a handmade version cut from a sheet of neoprene. Once the old seal is removed the thermostat falls out. That's all I've got. Hope it helps. Nice pics and illustration BTW.
  21. My experience is that an "L" shaped hose fits the early rad. An angled hose fits the later 74-75 rads. Your picture looks just like my 73 non-AC rad to thermostat config.
  22. Yes, your tuna can spring is too wimpy. Find the proper spring or a better facsimile to create the proper tension.
  23. I've had great success with an engine lift device. It would be even easier with a carbureted engine as the alternator doesn't hit the bottom of the battery tray like in the tii. Arghh! The last time I removed my oilpan, I removed the 4 bolts holding the radiator. You don't even need to drain the rad. I removed the distributor cap and removed the engine mount bolts. That's it! Lifting the front of the engine only 3" using the lift and chain connected to the front lift point was easy. Once the engine is elevated this small amount the pan can be slid out (and back in). I used wood blocks at the engine mount locations to stabilize the lift, and add safety to the job.
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