PaulTWinterton

Has to be one of us. Who else could love the detail. "La Belle Province" on the license plate. Quebec french artistry. I would love to see more pix of this living space. __________ Vancouver, BC 73 Inka tii

I've often wondered why my car came with a plugged hole in the rear panel when others I've seen don't have it. This car was imported into Canada in late 1972. European spec for fog light? Also, there is a loop of unused wire at the rear of the transmission that looks as if it is optional and would connect to something similar to the reverse switch on the transmission. Never researched, but maybe now's the time. Paul Winterton Vancouver, BC 73 Inka Tii, #2762958

Andrew, I thought my linkages were good, but now this worn spot changes my thinking. Slop on the shaft can't be good. There should be NO lumpy spots in running performance. I will not accept that. My tii did not have this issue 'once apon a time', so it should be fixable. I had other tii's that never had this issue. I've been through the process. Ignition, all new. Air hoses and gaskets, all new. Ignition tuned, valve adjustment. Linkage adjustments and replacements. Warm Up Reg tested and adjusted. I believe this shaft and bushing could help. Will get that fixed for sure. Paul

Thanks Byas, I was afraid you'd say that. My shaft is worn. Maybe not as worn as yours, but still... All in all, this play is not helping the syncronization of the fuel/air, right? I'm chasing a lumpy cruise between 2000-3000rpm. Paul

I've just become aware of the bushing on the shaft of the tii throttle body. Actually it fell out. Once I re-inserted (loosely) I noticed .5 -1.0mm combined lateral play of the shaft on the inside and outside of the bushing. Is this bushing available anywhere? Does someone have some experience fixing this problem? Or am I hooped and need a new shaft as well? Any input please. Thanks, Paul Winterton Vancouver, BC 73 Ikca tii #2762958

New plugs - NGK 5's at 45 spacing? Should this be .24 maybe as high as .30 gap?

I used my trusty snapshot digital camera. I thought that because the piston assembly rotates freely that it wouldn't matter. Thanks for confirming that. Paul Winterton Vancouver, Canada 73 Inka Tii #2762958

I pulled my W/U Regulator, tested and adjusted as I'd seen others talk about on the board. One thing I'm not 100% on: Are the groove positions important or correct in the photo below? The whole inner assembly rotates with the threaded shaft, so it's easy to turn it if necessary. Thanks for reading and responding. Paul Winterton Vancouver, Canada 73 Inka Tii, #2762958

That's enough clarification for me. Thanks, Paul

Just so I'm clear. I've been told, read, and seen DIY mechanics using a 4mm rod or drillbit to set the TunaCan cam to benchmark the KF fuel/air. The cam resting up against the edge of the 4mm rod/drillbit. Now I've seen the best picture of an ACTUAL 4mm BMW tool. Is it possible that I've been setting up my KF wrong? During setup should the cam rest against the 1 or 2 position on the tool as shown below? If it is #2 then what is that diameter? Thanks, Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii #2762958

John, I wasn't expecting a challenge, so yes, I'll check carefully that the Ohms match. I hope so, as I don't have another resistor sitting around. Thanks for the heads up. Paul

I've learned since posting this thread that the consensus is "Black" on the older tii. BMW says NLA, but Blunt has, so I'm replacing one last piece of the puzzle that is my tii. 99.5% stock. I'm curious and excited to see if it changes anything in performance of the car. Starting? Idling? Acceleration?......... Thanks for the input, Paul Winterton Vancouver, Canada 73 Inka Tii #2762958

I've read many of the posts about coils and colors. I have a stock 73 tii with a Blue coil attached to the ceramic resistor on the fender. Has been that way since I bought the car 22 years ago. Should I replace that coil and/or configuration? I don't believe the car is running or starting quite as well as it could and I have nothing else to adjust or replace. I want to stay as "stock" as I can. Coil advice please. Thanks, Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii, #2762958

Hello Group, I bought the washer/gasket #13511257559, (part #3 in the pump picture) from BMW (Canada). It is in fact steel and an unusual size, as not to interfer with the lip of the valve, yet not so wide that it can't crush outward. $8.00 EACH! YES, I'M YELLING. Anyone know a generic source for this washer at say 20 cents? It can't be that unusual. Thanks, I'll take a dozen! Cheers, Paul Winterton Vancouver, BC 73 Inka Tii, #2762958

Hi Bill, Yes, I've done those adjustments. No binding or any other anomalies. BUT when I remove the tools the regulating lever moves a couple of degrees, helped by the spring at the top of the intermediate shaft. Conclusion (I think): 85mm rod needs adjustment. Old car? I don't know. See the sketch at the end of this post. If the Kfish and the Air are pinned from idle to full, the extra # of degrees can only mess up the overall syncronization of the system. Bluedevils, I talked with the shop about the injectors. Tested, ultrasonic cleaning, replace gaskets, and tested for pattern and release pressure. All consistent and performing to spec. When the car is cold it runs smooth and responsive in the 2k range. My problem is the warm running. I'm sure it's the linkages as this point. Thanks, Paul

Great info Bill, Thanks so much. I reset the pinch bolt, holding eccentric against 4mm tool, with the 5mm tool in place at the pump. Are you saying that the intermediate shaft "connecting" bolt is adjustable as well? I'm starting understand now. I still can't line up the 5mm tool while the car is idling. Is that normal? Bluedevils, You're right. I should rule out the injector 'rebuild'. Knowledgable 60 year old company though. Sure hope that's not my problem On that note, cheers! Paul Winterton

My tii was running fine, but with 18-20mpg and slightly rough running at 2000-3000rpm. Warm up was working fine with a 1300 rpm idle until warm and then dropping down to 900rpm. All ignition components were tested to spec or replaced and timing was spot on. Because the car has approx 70k miles I decided to have the injectors serviced and I tore down the intake side of the engine. As told by the shop “2 injectors were 75% and dripping. 2 injectors were fine but spray pattern was too wide. All injectors are now correct and delivering at 30bar.” I replaced the injectors, sealed all the intake gaskets as they were in good shape and re-assembled intake components. I also replaced the plastic cup on the lower throttle rod. As I never adjusted any linkages I only reconnected the upper and lower throttle rods and started the car. Once the fuel filled the lines the car started immediately and ran smooth at cold/high idle. At this point is where I ran into problems. When the idle dropped down the engine started to surge and finally died. Each subsequent start up was quick (new injectors I presume) but would eventually die. Like fuel starvation. I decided to follow the manual and re-setup the kfish. I reset the tophat for 2.8mm (slightly above recommended), and measured the 2 linkages at 289mm and 85mm. I reset the idle and mixture screws best I could with the 5mm tool in position. Lastly I checked the full throttle alignment and it is good. After many adjustments I’ve been able to get the engine to idle smoothly, but with any increase in throttle the engine runs rough and dies. Possible problem: (see pic attached) Step 1 of setup is to align holes in regulating lever and housing with 5mm tool. At rest, or idle position, MINE DOES NOT LINE UP. For my first adjustment (above) I giggled with the accelerator linkage to MAKE IT fit. Full throttle alignment is correct. What do I do to get it to line up at idle? Any other recommendations? As I said the car was running fine before, so I don’t think it is fuel or ignition related. Thanks for reading and replying. Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii #2762958

Thanks everybody for confirming the obvious. I can rest now, until I find some other anomaly. Long live the FAQ! Cheers, Paul Winterton Vancouver, Canada 73 Inka tii, #2762958

Your hose connection makes sense. Further searching in the archives revealed opinion that both connections can be sealed without any change in performance of the engine. That's probably why my throttle body hose is plugged. I'll reconnect as I want my car to be as original as possible when I do the final tune up. Thanks Jim. Any other opinions of disagreement out there? Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii 2762958

Jim, Bill Williams says you have a good picture of this area. I would just like it know what the proper connection is. A "plug" in the throttle body hose doesn't seem right, and DEFINITELY an open pipe at the bib, can't be right. I'd love to see a picture of the correct configuration for this model. Paul

AFAIK this configuration is original. The vent hose is as BMW MobileTradition #11151252665. As seen here: http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=11_2376&hg=11&fg=30&hl=9 It's an early tii, with mechanical injection. I have a buddy with the same car (400 later on the assembly line). Same plugged hose on the throttle body. What configuration do other mechanical injected tii's have? Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii 2762958

Hello All, I'm servicing my injectors and while removing parts I noticed that my vent hose (#1252665) has an OPEN elbow which was oily and dirty. Should it be connected to something? While I'm asking, should the blocked hose off the throttle body be connected to something? I'm guessing that it these tubes are relative to vacuum on Turbo and/or later model injection systems. Not required for mechanical Tii injection. Please look at the following picture and let me know your comments. Thanks for reading and responding, Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii #2762958

Hello All, I'm servicing my injectors and while removing parts I noticed that my vent hose (1252665) has an OPEN elbow which was oily and dirty. Should it be connected to something? While I'm asking, should the blocked hose off the throttle body be connected to something? I'm guessing that it these tubes are relative to vacuum on Turbo and/or later model injection systems. Not required for mechanical Tii injection. Please look at the following picture and let me know your comments. Thanks for reading and responding, Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii #2762958

Richard, PM updated. Thanks, Paul

Thanks Richard and all, I'm going to do a fuel pressure check, open up the top of the KFish and check all fuel screens and valves. I'll increase the mixture slightly as well. See where it gets me. Thanks again, Paul Winterton Vancouver Canada 73 Inka Tii 2762958