Jump to content

layers

Kugelfischer
  • Posts

    524
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by layers

  1. until
    BayArea 02 Swap & Show, 4 May 2024, Marina at Brisbane, California. Please preregister on Motorsportreg [Preregister for Swap & Show-24] starting on 17 March. Preregistration is $25 until 27 April (when preregistration closes) while the on-site fee on 4 May will be $30. Graphic artist Kile Brekke designed our T-shirts and printed materials again this year and as you see they look excellent! Please preregister early to help us plan. We will have a named bag for each preregistrant. Note— Swap & Show visitors are welcome! If you do not show your car or swap parts, there is No Fee for entry. But we encourage anyone with a BMW of our vintage (1960’s through 1975 and all 1502’s) to bring your car to display, no matter how beautiful your restoration or how mundane the dirt and rust on your daily driver (some photographers can make the rust and dirt look surprisingly attractive!). Swap & Show does not judge your car so there will be no points for extra dirt, missing dirt, matching luggage, upside-down fog lamps or concours-ready shine. We smile at all BMW's, and photographs or videos are welcome (but—NO drones over cars)! Larry
  2. Event Title: Swap & Show 2024 Event Location: 500 Sierra Point Pkwy, Brisbane, California, 94005-1896 Event Author: layers Event Date: 05/04/2024 09:00 AM to 05/04/2024 03:00 PM BayArea 02 Swap & Show, 4 May 2024, Marina at Brisbane, California. Please preregister on Motorsportreg [Preregister for Swap & Show-24] starting on 17 March. Preregistration is $25 until 27 April (when preregistration closes) while the on-site fee on 4 May will be $30. Graphic artist Kile Brekke designed our T-shirts and printed materials again this year and as you see they look excellent! Please preregister early to help us plan. We will have a named bag for each preregistrant. Note— Swap & Show visitors are welcome! If you do not show your car or swap parts, there is No Fee for entry. But we encourage anyone with a BMW of our vintage (1960’s through 1975 and all 1502’s) to bring your car to display, no matter how beautiful your restoration or how mundane the dirt and rust on your daily driver (some photographers can make the rust and dirt look surprisingly attractive!). Swap & Show does not judge your car so there will be no points for extra dirt, missing dirt, matching luggage, upside-down fog lamps or concours-ready shine. We smile at all BMW's, and photographs or videos are welcome (but—NO drones over cars)! Larry Swap & Show 2024 S&S_2024_Postcard_r1-01_240219.pdf
  3. Hi Johnny-- You correctly saw the post on Facebook, Swap & Show-2024 is this May 4, the first Saturday in May. While this is the date on our calendar, before announcing the event we needed to confirm availability with the Brisbane Marina and to get Kile Brekke's graphics. Now we're ready to post the event so watch for it in the FAQ calendar.
  4. layers

    Bay Area 02 Not the 49-Mile Drive 2023

    Photos taken at and for Not the 49-Mile Drive on 9 Dec. 2023
  5. Hi everyone-- Take a look at [NT49MD-23__ Save 9 Dec general post] for a few details. As the route, gathering and rally plans congeal I will edit the post. Note this event is listed in the general FAQ events, not the BayArea 02 events page. Enjoy Thanksgiving while thinking about the rally! Larry
  6. Just a few odd photos from today. I was pleased to see Steve & others today, even if briefly.
  7. Probably the best solution to faded lenses, unless you need a "new lens" look, is to swap the incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs of the proper color. Since the colored LEDs are close to monochromatic the light will be the simply what color emanates from the LEDs themselves. The reflectors, even for an incandescent bulb, provide just a small amount of light to the light distribution from a stop-turn-tail lamp. Most chrome-colored materials have a lot less reflectance than good white paint. Well-used bulbs get black inside and sometimes look like a mirror (well, on the inside the evaporated tungsten now deposited on bulb really is...). New bulbs and especially higher-output LED's can significantly increase conspicuity. Good luck!
  8. Hi HLB-- Also look at the BayArea 02 sponsors [BayArea 02 Sponsors]. Since you are looking preferentially at shops in San Francisco, note that Auto Dynamik is on Eddy St. Larry
  9. High Road Trip-- Superbright LEDs does a pretty good job in telling your options BUT they messed up on the front turn & park bulb. This one has a double-contact base (BAY15D), not the single-contact base (BA15S) they indicate. Look for an 1157 equivalent bulb, NOT an 1156 equivalent. I also recommend you get their packet of silicone grease (or other silicone grease) to very lightly apply to the bulb contacts, decreasing the possibility of corrosive contact failure. And speaking of contact failure, I encourage you to clean the wire contacts where they meet the bulb sockets and also check the ground connections, especially for the front turn lamp socket. You may also need an LED-compatible flasher for the turn signal lamps; I simply bought a solid-state flasher at my local auto parts store although Superbright LEDs probably also has a good one. See Chris Blumenthal's article [Solid state flasher application-- Chris B.]. Be careful if you replace wedge-based lamps in the instrument cluster. First off, our wedge-based sockets have the contact polarity different from many more recent sockets. Lots of wedge-based lamps have one contact on one end of the base and the other contact on the other end. But our wedge-base sockets have one contact on one SIDE and the other contact on the other side. That means if a lamp in your hand has one wire that wraps around the base on one end, you need to make sure the contact wire on the lamp is on exactly one side of the base end, not both sides of the base end (and wrap the wire on the other end so it is just on the opposite side from the first contact wire). Failing to do this will blow a fuse due to the short circuit at the lamp base. And remember, if you do this and the lamp does not light initially it probably means you need to rotate the lamp 180-degrees to reverse lamp polarity. Another problem with wedge-based LED lamps in our instrument cluster: some are too fat to fit, particularly on the tach and speedometer. The original glass bulbs are 1cm in diameter while most I see on Superbright LEDs are somewhat larger. These might fit if you remove the tach and speedometer from the circuitboard so you have access to the front of the lamp tunnel (or maybe not—I have not tried it yet). See why I call the instruments an adventure? Finally, you should consider the Correlated Color Temperature (CCT) of the white LED’s you select. The CCT is technically the apparent warmth or coolness of the light emanating from a light source, compared to a black body radiator (think of an incandescent filament in a perfectly absorbing black box, with a peep-hole for you to look through). CCT is expressed in “Kelvins” similar to the temperature in Degrees-Kelvin of the black body radiator. Raise the temperature of the black body and the light looks whiter, lower the temperature and the black body looks yellower. Our miniature incandescent lamps are probably about 2600-Kelvins but most of us prefer closer to 3000K. Some people like a cooler CCT, such as 4000K, while others want to prove they have a non-incandescent source and select 5000K, 6500K or even what amount to blue LEDs. The color you prefer is your choice but realize many LED lamps types are available with just a few different CCTs. Unless you want to make a statement of some sort, keeping the CCTs for your instrument panel consistent (within about 300Kelvins) looks best. OK, this is probably enough for now. Are you tired yet?
  10. Hi Road Trip-- I use Superbright LED bulbs with the same bases as the stock bulbs so they fit right in. But verify the correct bases for your bulbs: many are BA15S (single bottom contact PS25-1, like the 7506 Osram or American 1156), but the front parking/turn bulb is a BAY15D (double bottom contact PS25-2, like the 7528 Osram or American 1157). Superbright has this application confused in their 1970’s BMW replacement guide. There is no need for CANbus compatibility since that computer monitoring system was developed when our cars were 20 years old, but a CANbus bulb will work fine for us. There might be a problem with LED bulb compatibility with a turn signal flasher, though I have no problem with my solid-state flasher (but it may flash a couple of times after my signal is off). A CANbus bulb has an extra resistor in parallel with it's LEDs to draw more current; this is the rationale for an external resistor you can install to make your CANbus computer think your signal lights are working. I encourage you to use LED bulbs with the proper color for your lamp rather than using white everywhere; the colors are more saturated so to me they look better and seem more obvious. Any lamp with a faded lens will look very red with an LED bulb instead of pink. And 100 Lumens of red LED light passing through a red lens is more than the amount from a 460-Lumen PS25-1 bulb that looses most of that light being filtered by the red lens. A final comment: LED bulbs will not operate without a minimum of voltage, depending on how the LED chips are arrayed internally. If you have a poor ground or corroded switch contacts it’s possible an LED bulb will not get enough voltage to operate even if an incandescent will glow dimly in that socket. I encourage you to try some LED bulbs and experiment a bit if you want. The bulbs used for our signaling lamps all have bases with the proper polarity but if you try replacing some of your instrument panel T3¼_wedge-base lamps, getting the polarity correct for our sockets is more of an adventure. Have fun!
  11. Hello Gretchen1602-- I concur with the suggestion that Pirelli CN36 tires are about the best choice. I understand they are made in Pirelli's factory in Brazil. I replaced the stock tires on my late '73 with 185/70-13 tires and would do that again. I think all of the 205/60-13 tires I have seen on '02's require the fenders to be rolled. Another consideration is that any tire wider than 165mm will raise the spare tire cover if you keep it in your trunk. I accepted this on my '73 since most of the time my 165R13 spare lay in waiting. And the single time I had hundreds of miles to drive on the spare there was plenty of stuff in my trunk to keep the cover panel from rattling around. By the way, 165R-13 tires are available from Pirelli in the CN36 style. You should also consider Lucas Classic Tires [Lucastires]in Long Beach as a possible vendor. While Longstone Tyres has outstanding reviews on this site, their shipping charges may be much higher than buying them with only about 400 miles to ship. Good luck!
  12. Hi-- I like your car since it looks a lot like the '73 I owned for 36 years. I agree with Steve, look at the FAQ wheel database to get a better idea what style you are interested in. To help you decide your preferred size and what, if any, your speedometer will be off, I have attached an analysis the late Curt Ingaram developed. While some good tire brands and sizes are no longer available, more of them are for 15" wheels. And a few, like Pirelli CN36, have renewed availability even if Tire Rack and Discount Tire choose not to show them. Good luck and have fun searching!2002 wheel-tire fit from Curt 080424.xls Larry
  13. Hi Everyone-- I saw many of you with clearly serious cameras, plus the ubiquitous cellphones, taking both photos for future calendars and snapshots to share. Please share them at [Photos at Swap&Show-23], a gallery Steve Kupper created for us. It's a lot easier to find your and everyone else's photos if they are grouped together in one gallery. Thank you-- let's see how you captured the Show by the Bay! Larry
  14. Hi everyone! Thank you to all of you who participated in Swap & Show-2023 at the Brisbane Marina on 6 May. I enjoyed the show as did all others I spoke to there. We had about 80 cars, less than last year most likely due to predicted rain. Although I encountered rain as I drove from the East Bay, it stopped as I-80 changed into US-101 and only appeared in Brisbane for a few brief drizzles. I saw many of you with clearly serious cameras, plus the ubiquitous cellphones, taking both photos for future calendars and snapshots to share. Please share them at [Photos at Swap&Show-23], a gallery Steve Kupper created for us. It's a lot easier to find your and everyone else's photos if they are grouped together in one gallery. Thank you-- let's see how you captured the Show by the Bay! Larry
  15. Steve is correct. We only cancel if a tornado is upon us (waterspout?) or if a pandemic closes us down. At this point we have enough effort into Swap & Show that postponing it would not be an option. You may recall that we carried on in 2016 and although it drizzled a bit and many of us got damp but there were still about 80 cars out. The best wetness prognostication I have heard for Saturday is occasional light rain (seems like a good description of 2016). See you on Saturday!
×
×
  • Create New...