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Hi Tom-- Thanks for posting your welcome and photos. I'll add updates as we develop more details and when registration opens later this month. Also, I'll add your photos from S&S-19 to our gallery for last year in the images tab. Larry

Note that the difference between HD and Sport Bilstein shocks is the distance the shock will extend. HD shocks are for OEM or somewhat shorter springs while Sport shocks go with the short springs for a track suspension. Larry

Hi Greg-- Sometimes the problem is the bulb and sometimes an apparently fine lamp connection is poor. As mentioned, a poor connection is often from the auxiliary lamp mount to chassis ground but may also be within the lamp (the problem with my H2 bulbs in a pair of Cibie 95 foglamps; when I asked a Cibie engineer about the problem he simply said to get a new bulb holder). If I were in your shoes, I would check a bare bulb by connecting it to a battery or power supply. If you use an alligator clip lead (or some other means) to hook the bulb wire lead to battery+, and your test light clip to battery-, then if you hold the bulb base and VERY momentarily touch the test light probe to the bulb base, a quick flash will show that you need not discard the bulb. A failed bulb could be a poorly connected wire lead (for the H3 bulb) or could be a secretly broken filament. The filament wire is sturdy and may hold a broken part together so it looks good but does not complete an electric circuit. Also, the filament wire may have a break where it is welded to the molybdenum pad that allows a bulb seal around the electric wires. Larry

Hi Greg-- I'm glad you found the problem and your lamps are working! But a little clarification: a halogen bulb IS an incandescent bulb. The key differences to halogen and regular incandescent are adding some halogen gas to the bulb interior and using a high-temperature glass, like quartz (or Vycor or aluminosilicate), to allow the glass to get close enough to the filament so the halogen cycle works without softening the envelope. And as you probably know, touching a quartz bulb can make it fail from the oils on your skin (it can devitrify, weakening and diffusing the bulb; it could explode from the 30 or more PSI inside). Now that you know more about halogen bulbs, I STRONGLY suggest you replace your amber-colored "fog" lamps. Amber is a proper color for signalling or marking lamps such as turn signal, parking or daytime running lamps. True foglamps are either white or selective yellow (like older French or Japanese headlamps). See [Daniel Stern on foglamps and lamp colors]. I will note that the Cibie lamps sold by Daniel Stern are good, but I'm not a fan of the H2 bulbs (well, the H2 bulb holders that corrode excessively from the very hot bulb contacts) Cibie has in many of their smaller lamps. Larry

Beck, have you even encountered" Dirt Alley" in your hometown? Look West of 23rd on Judah. Larry

Hey Beck-- Do you have any Swap & Show-19 photos to post? You can do so at [S&S-19 images in BayArea 02 Regional Group]. Thanks! I don't think you will ever loose the touch from your former profession! Larry

Hi-- Rumor has it that the landlord dramatically increased the lease rate for Double02 Salvage to about a current level for warehouse space in Hayward. I imagine the "Green Revolution" may have had a distinct influence on that rate. The new rate is incompatible with an auto parts salvage business. I have heard nothing firm about the final disposition of the Double02 parts inventory. I agree with you, Dean and Marshall always offered their best solutions to parts needs for our BMWs, often at a better-than-typical price. Larry

Bill Arnold has a chain Vice-grip plier/wrench to give more leverage on the propeller shaft to allow fastener removal and tightening. He told me that was the only thing he used them for.

Lots of us remember Beck as a former rallymeister for Not the 49-MileDrive. And as a San Francisco native, he showed us a number of unique routes (sometimes a trail...) and vistas.

Hi-- Another potential problem with LED wedge-based bulbs (like the T-3.25_2821/194 bulb) : many have their wire contact leads wrapped from one side of the base to the other, maintaining an end-to-end polarity difference. But on our cars, the polarity difference is from one side of the base to the other. An incandescent bulb has it's contact wire on one side of one end with the other wire on the other side of the other end. If you try an LED bulb with a contact wire on both sides of the base it will simply blow your fuse. For the ones I used, from Superbright, I needed to bend each contact wire so it was on just one side of the base (and, of course, the other wire was on just the other side of the base). Now they work fine. I will also comment that for the colored indicator lights, 5 Lumens is ample light output (or a colored bulb that has 5 lumens for it's white companion's output). 35 Lumens is ample for the instrument backlighting bulbs. Note, too, that if you have a red oil pressure indicator light and you want it to be amber, just purchase an amber LED bulb (it produces no red light so only amber will shine through the lens). Finally, the "T-3.25" is actually the bulb diameter, expressed as "3.25_1/8th's of an inch". This is also 1CM or 10mm, the common European size. If a "194-equivalent" LED bulb is 10.1mm in diameter or larger it will not fit everywhere in your instrument panel, especially near the speedometer and tach. Since Superbright has bulb dimensional drawings (look carefully for photos or links in the specifications), you can tell what will fit or which may fit if you file away some of the plastic supporting the internal LED mounting board. Good luck; I like my LED's! Larry

Hi-- Before you get too far along, check to see if the splines in the rear wheel hubs are OK. I had one hub fail about 2 decades ago in my late '73. The symptom was similar: no power to the wheels with my open diff (but I was able to coast down the Caldecott Tunnel and pulled to the right shoulder on the loop to SR-13 South). After the tow home, I found the nut holding the hub together very loose and, of course, the wheel spun. A trip in the other car to Double-02 Salvage and Dean had a good used hub to sell (and let me borrow a new hub just in case). Bill Arnold declared the used hub fine and I never had more spline problems in the next decade my '73 survived. Good luck! Larry

Hi GeigerSpeed-- A fellow in the East Bay has his Chamonix 2002 registered with historic plates. See [https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/219984-brisbane-2018-swap-and-show-pictures/] and scroll down to Bob Yee's (Yeewiz) "...and just a few more..." post; the photo is #7. As I recall from chatting with the owner there are some restrictions on annual miles driven but he was OK with that distance and did not need an odometer inspection. But do check the registration requirements and see how they fit your planned use (including, of course, NT49MD and Swap & Show). Larry