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1453aalapapa

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Everything posted by 1453aalapapa

  1. genuine rear muffler for -74 2002, also genuine center and rear muffler for 78(?) E12/24, chrome fender lip kit for E12. all or nothing, you come and get it, i dont care what you do with it, except you cannot leave it on the side of the road within 1 mile of the house. after that, whatever. not shipping, not meeting, pickup only. send phone nr to hochiinn@yahoo.com, and i will call you. one person says they are coming for the stuff on tuesday, so i think this is closed. moderators, please remove this
  2. this place is an excellent alternative: http://beyermotorworks.com/new/page,art,id,201.html if you do call them, i dont know how they do it now, but used to be, they would send you the new reman on a board, with a ups call tag. you install the new, put the old on the board, and call ups to come get it. all the shops in the bimmer tech group use beyer a long time ago, when i installed my first 5 spd, i had a shop local in dallas shorten and balance it. at that time, there was no place that i knew of like beyer. when i got it back, it sucked. the front flange was on crooked. to balance it, it looked like they found some old nuts and washers on the ground and welded them to the side of the driveshaft, then painted over them. one thing to consider, if you use beyer, you dont have to drive anywhere to deliver/pickup your driveshaft. also, it comes with all new stuff on it, and down time is just a couple of days.
  3. those part numbers are correct, however, the 145 bmwna sug list price is 3.48, the 120 .23. the pricing on realoem is nowhere near correct. there are several online bmw dealer sites that will show and discount off of bmwna suggested list price. most dealers will bump list price for over the counter sales, however, the increase in price will be offset by no shipping cost. also, if you do use a local dealer, i would suggest you supply your own part numbers, or you will not get very good service, maybe none at all.
  4. there is a HUGE caveat on this warranty. a genuine bmw part is covered ONE of two ways. first, if you get the part, say over the counter, and it is defective, then you return it to the parts dept, and they give you another, or you get a refund. the key here is, you have NOT installed the part on the car. once the part has been installed on the car, the return process is WAY different. in order to process a warranty on an INSTALLED part, only bmw service dept can handle the warranty, bmw parts dept cannot. this means the car has to go to a bmw dealer, and service has to determine the part is bad, then service will warranty the part, and install it no charge. in the real world, this is a HUGE pain in the butt. say for example, a 2002 is being restored. a dash is installed. then, before the car is finished, there is something wrong with the dash. the ONLY way it can be warranteed, is the car has to be taken to a dealer. which means tow truck, if it has wheels. oh, and this has actually happened.
  5. oh yeah. i dont think his rates are high enough, and i have told him so several times. so has his wife, and his accountant
  6. i would go to bimmer auto, 972 701 9898. marlon is one of the best i have ever seen. he is in the prestonwood area. does not advertise, all business done by referral, and he is always busy. tenacious tech, will not give up. fixed jerry jones' 850 when bmw could not. and he is always there, probably be there sunday and mem day. ex bmw factory tech
  7. look at this: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,350978/highlight,/sid,19a5f02c930547e551dd52a713e595bc/ the a4s lines are pretty close to the stock tii, and they are the clear tecalon ones. bmw claims the tecalon is no longer available. the group buy was very successful.
  8. if you can pm me, or email, i have a box of push on knobs, 25 11 1 220 823, and several emblems.
  9. They got this one (bottom)? I got this one, Walloth told me that "it replaces the one I ordered..". Right.. And if i turn the key it slashes my fan, which fits into the third groove.. The top one is my original, one groove. Where do I find the right one? Had Germany been closer, you would have found the 3-groove one in the part of Walloth that´s highest when he ties his shoes.. yup. that's the problem. well, i had 3 of these, they had been on the shelf for about 20 years. even had the old part numbers on them, so i KNOW bmw had it right at one time. if you are desperate, email jchutton150@aol.com, he posts on this group, and he has one of them. otherwise, i dont think bmw will ever rectify the problem. good luck
  10. well, i no longer have manual transmission cars. i have a shoulder injury, and with age, shifting becomes a pain sometimes. and i mean real pain. but i do like the redline products for manual transmissions, limited slips, and transfer cases. and, i am prone to use products that have a really good tech dept that is more than willing to help out, and answer questions.
  11. both gl-4 and gl-5 can be used in the rear diff. the reason you do NOT want to use gl-5 in a transmission is because the additive package contains sulfur, which is corrosive to brass synchos. you might want to call redline, and talk to their tech dept. redline is the easiest and nicest tech dept i have ever encountered in my years in parts. they are happy to help you, and are very informative.
  12. those nylon bushings are not part of the selector rod. the old shift knuckle used to have the nylon bushing on the selector rod end, the superseded one, 25 11 7 503 525, no longer has a bushing, it is all metal. the old part number, 25 11 1 205 070 had the bushing. there is one aftermarket brand, mtc, which still MIGHT have the bushing in it. on the other end, the lower part of the shift lever(25 11 1 205 870) has the bushing as part of it. if you got a new selector rod(25 11 1 204 357), there would be NO bushings on it. i can email you pics of the 2 knuckles, aftermarket WITH the bushing, and genuine, without. i dont know how to post the pics here. eventually, the aftermarket knuckle will catch up to the genuine one, and all will be all metal.
  13. beware of the 1 groove pulley(11 21 1 270 193). i believe bmw has the wrong part in the bag under this part number. i had 3 nos, and sent 2 of them to people who kept getting the wrong pulley from bmw. one shop had ordered it twice, and kept getting the wrong one. what they were getting was NOT a 1 groove, and i think they would not fit, too, but i dont remember.
  14. to expand, door brake is 51 21 0 301 601(was 51216450014), and harry davis was making repros, he is on this forum. #6 below: http://bmwmobiletradition-onlinecom.x-shops.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=41_1156&hg=41&fg=40&hl=12 drain tube, #16 below: http://bmwmobiletradition-onlinecom.x-shops.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=64_0851&hg=64&fg=25&hl=25
  15. #10 below: http://bmwmobiletradition-onlinecom.x-shops.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=41_1159&hg=41&fg=40 in the "up to" column, which is in the wrong place, it takes 8 per car, which means 4 per side.
  16. didja catch the HOFFMAN MOTORS yaller sticker? them stickers pre date the old bmw orange stickers.
  17. #5: http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=51_3368&hg=51&fg=55&hl=7 they show to still be available
  18. back in the day, i worked at a company in dallas, dallas european parts distributors. we sold a lot of febi oil pumps. the only difference from the febi and genuine was the genuine had the extra oil pressure relief spring in the pickup. the febi oil pumps came in a plastic bag, and since there is nothing to hold the oil pressure relief valve piston and spring in the pump, they would always fall out, and be loose in the bag. we had dozens of these exact complaints, and every one was because the relief valve piston was installed upside down. i am also sure the piston is in there upside down
  19. Doesn't work, unfortunately there's not enough clearance between water pump and radiator. I fell for that too. notice i posted IF you can.... joe bill dryden fit an m6 engine and radiator in a 1602. well, actually he paid kormann to. that didnt fit, either.
  20. no workee. one of the 2002's i had i did that. no a/c, but i put a pusher fan in front of the radiator, and took off the engine fan blade. car ran hot. like 3/4 or higher, when before it was always about 1/3. this was in hawaii, ambient was in the low 80's. driving in traffic was the worst. with the fan, driving in traffic was the same as out on the highway(this was WAAAY before h1). 45 sidedrafts, norris 301, headers, no a/c. new 3 core radiator, 71 deg stat. if you can install a fan behind the radiator, so it pulls air thru, that is way more efficient than a pusher fan
  21. this place made the a4s lines about a year ago. they may be making the regular tii lines, and they are using the oem tecalon(sp) pre bent, that bmw claims is no longer available. there is a link in the forum, i am sure someone will post it. http://www.lieblmotorsport.de/home.htm and there used to be an engilsh version of the site found the link: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,350978/highlight,/sid,19a5f02c930547e551dd52a713e595bc/
  22. that line has been "revised" by bmw for a couple of years. as stock runs out, all the other lines will be the same, black in color, and straight-NOT pre bent for clearance. vehemently complaining has been met with indifference
  23. the dcoe 15/16's are THE best carbs for the 2002. i ran a couple sets on stock 2002, choked to 30mm, and they ran great. the idle progression holes in the 15/16's are unique to these carbs. if you get the alpina cable linkage with this set for 600, that is a deal. 5.0 aux venturis, which the 45's will take, but the 40's will not, make a big difference in overall driveability, especially idle progression. even without the cable linkage, that is a good price for 15/16's as long as they are not fubar inside.
  24. i believe that "chunk" is #21 below: http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD13&mospid=47408&btnr=11_1188&hg=11&fg=25&hl=25 as stated, move the rocker towards the spring, and you will see a groove on the shaft, which is where circlip #22 would go. note that this diagram is from an e34, but it is the same config. this is a clearer pic. you may have to loosen the eccentric to get clearance.
  25. s2sn3759 is bmw 21 51 7 521 471. if you are installing a 320i 5 spd in a 2002, that bearing is too short. you will either have no clutch, or it will release right off the floor. you need the longer one, bmw 21 51 1 204 525(sachs nr 3151 047 331) which is 5mm longer than what you have
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