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Jerzy

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Everything posted by Jerzy

  1. Check inside the trunk - find the point where several brown wires are bolted to the sheet metal. I'm not certain where that is on your car - you may need to lift the trunk boards. Clean it all up. Is your gas gauge working? It may share the same grounding point. --------------------------- After further review - It appears all the lights that are not working are fed by fuse #5 - You may not have good contact between the ends of that fuse and the copper fuse holders. Clean that up and bend the holders a little to make better contact.
  2. Too bad this site's photos are such low quality - they don't do the cars justice. http://www.thewerkshop.net/bmws-for-sale/
  3. I hope the car has working AC. Happy April 1st -
  4. If you're still having trouble at idle - remove the solenoid for inspection. It may need cleaning or it could be worn out - as I found in my '76's Weber. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,339371/
  5. I've yet to see a schematic for a 6 fuse car that shows that relay. Most are like this one - ......................................................................................................... That red wire LOOKS like it should go to the battery. The split black wire could be a connection to emissions components that may no longer be on your car. Is that a chrome plated coil below the ballast resistor? It may have built in resistance. If so, you shouldn't be using the ballast resistor.
  6. It needs 12 volts to be open while the engine's running. Or it may be defective.
  7. Feeds the coil a lower voltage through the resistor after the car starts. #2 is the resistor. The colors of your wiring may not match this schematic.
  8. There have been several posts by owners who found cryptic markings. Here are the insides of a '69's door panels -
  9. The later switch - the one that's in your dash - does not. That loose wire is most likely the ground wire for the original flasher switch and your non-functioning wipers have a separate problem.
  10. I'll stick with taking measurements at the source with the equipment I already own. Before buying one of these, check to see if the wires at your car's diagnostic port are intact and free of corrosion. Then take voltage and signal readings at the source - battery, voltage regulator, coil - and compare them with the readings you get at your diagnostic port. If the readings match - your diagnostic port is probably Wunderbox ready. The DIY '02 owner would be further ahead to buy a cheap VOM with tach/dwell functions. I do applaud your effort Pat. - Jerzy Socha This is the 1st one that came up in Google - there may be better choices -
  11. It appears to be 35mm x 5mm. I don't have a micrometer. I used a machinist 6" ruler for the width. A 3/16" open end wrench would not fit over the edge of this bracket but a 5mm fit fairly snug when tried in several places. Would you email me a larger copy of your license plate avatar? I would like to add it to my BMW/2002 screen saver file. jerzy AT tds DOT net
  12. Interesting. Thanks - http://www.terrysaytherauto.com/Racing/RacingJournal2007-02.htm
  13. #18 is the washer/wiper delay relay #25 the washer pump/turn signal switch
  14. A 1600 skin, GM V8, tube frame. More photos at: http://www.akgmotorsport.com/index.php View the "25 Year Gallery" Here's a euro fire-breather - A southern stocker - featured in the Roundel in the late '90s - And this unknown -
  15. Jumper pin #7 to ground and (carefully if you're using the car battery) apply 12volts to pin #6. No light = No good.
  16. Note the GN-WS wire at the pin #6 position. That wire also runs to the 3-pole connector (#63) the light switch (#61) as well as fuse #12 (not shown) and a bunch of other points. Also note that via the pin #6 position on the gauge cluster, switched power is provided to the temp gauge and fuel gauge, as well as the Oil Pressure Light (labeled "g"). The instrument pods are interchangeable from year to year. I used the illustration from the early schematic because it was easier to read than this one. Sorry for the confusion.
  17. No telling exactly how things are wired with all the changes its been through. These seat belt interlocks are a mystery to me. Never dealt with one directly. If you want to turn the starter over you could bypass the existing wiring and run a wire from terminal #50 on the back of your ignition switch to terminal #50 on your starter. Back of ignition switch - That your gauges light up in HALT but not in the RUN position may be due to a faulty ignition switch or incorrect wiring at the ignition switch. Here's a link to a late 2002 schematic that you can download and print out. Instead of trying to get the seat belt interlock circuits to work - bypass it. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,316840/
  18. When the oil pressure is low, the oil pressure switch closes which grounds the circuit and the bulb lights. The #15 next to pin #6 is the DIN label for switched battery voltage.
  19. Go here - http://2002tii.org/kb/tag/electical-diagram Download their 2002 Lighting Overview PDF. I think you will be able to print out a usable copy. Note that the Lighting Overview schematic does not show the horn relay. (They also have the '74tii schematic PDF you asked about in a post below) When the fogs are on, the brights should be off - that's why there's an interconnection of the two circuits. I'm short on time right now. Nice car, by the way. I enjoy the winter driving photos you've posted.
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