2ma2
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Everything posted by 2ma2
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Picked up an automatic as a parts car but enjoyed the drive home so much easier im going to fix it up and use it as my daily. Perhaps it’s old age!
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weber 32/36 is a great and easy upgrade. Very happy with mine for a daily driver.
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Have an offer on the ac. Willing to separate items if someone wants to make an offer on the heater -
Stock heater box with levers and cables,didn’t leak but fan is sticky and so are the cables. Will need to be rebuilt lubed etc Clardy ac complete with switches but no console. Unknown condition but fan works advise flush, core test and new expansion valve before installing. sorry not sure how to add pics so pm me and I can text you some
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Good music choice for all of us old enough to remember that song thank you
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As the title says I need a drivers side door and trunk lid for a daily driver. Surface rust expected but nothing too corroded will do. Prefer SoCal for pickup but will pay for shipping if the price isn’t prohibitive thanks
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Thank you
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I have 2 non ac pulleys and need one with the ac pulley. As it appears to be an added pulley behind the KF belt is it possible to weld one there and have it balanced. I’m sure it would be easier and cheaper than finding a used one. Any thoughts.
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I have a very similar build except a 292 camshaft. Low rpm power is a bit underwhelming but over 4000 rpm it comes alive. I suspect dual webers and a hotter cam are more suited to a track car that spends most of its time making power at higher rpm’s. Im basing this on the comparison with my 2002 automatic with stock cam and Weber 32/36 which is smoother and just as peppy as the dcoe292 setup until it gets to higher rpm’s. Im thinking of going to a 123 dizzy to get the timing less advanced at idle which would smooth things about a bit and improve lower rpm drivability. Im eager to see what your mechanic comes up with
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I’m not an expert on this but years ago there was a thing called a nox device that made the car run badly but reduced NO emissions after the car passed I removed it. I think it limited the timing advance so that would agree with the above post good luck
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I’d like the ac bracket. Pm on its way -
I have this issue too. I think it might be a camshaft issue as it has what is supposed to be a 292 grind. Not sure how well it was contoured but multiple valve adjustments don’t seem to help much and with the stethoscope it def sounds like top end noise. Car runs great especially at higher rpm’s so I haven’t been in a huge hurry to sort it out. Will be going back to a stock cam at some point
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If the rest of the car is nice and you get a good price it’s worth taking the risk. I wonder why seller wouldn’t spend a few dollars to get it running if it’s such a simple fix. It’s worth a lot more as a running car. Just my opinion
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My car had it plumbed into the dipstick tube when I purchased it.Fwiw it worked fine
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Thanks guys, great forum
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Great thanks for all the quick replies. it is part 7 on the parts diagram. I need the pulley only that bolts to the hub that sticks out the front of the motor Like to order it today, someone send me a price with shipping to so cal. Thanks
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need one asap, please let me know if you have one available Thanks
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I'm using the hurricane unit from old air products. Not done yet but close. Unit fits ok but to get the drain angled correctly might require a minor dash modification. I can let you know in a week or two how it turns out. -
Removed from 74 tii, working motor and cables. Did cut some wires as I am upgrading to a newer heat/ac unit and will need the light feeds and power to splice into, easy to repair or can use your own. Prefer pick up in so cal but will box and ship. Don't know how to post pics but can send cell phone pics and video to buyer . Best way to contact me is at work email tustindental.dds@gmail.com
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Thanks, on the rear tabs there are 2 bolts securing them but there is also a slot type of arrangement that looks like it would stop the panel from lifting up, is there anything I should be aware of before trying to undo the bolts. Also I noticed you posted a comment on a car at house of luxuries. They have a green TII there with a salvage title that looks nice on the ebay pics, did you take a look at it? If so I would appreciate your input. Thanks in advance
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Searched for sunroof removal but I really want to avoid an entire tear down while getting my car ready for the paint shop. Is it possible to remove just the sunroof panel if so how do I do it. If not does the entire headliner and sunroof rail set up need to come out? Thanks in advance
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Wish I could help, mine works great signaling left but flashes only once if I signal right. Tha lights outside work fine and flash normally! I suspect a bad instrument ground but eagerly await more responses.
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Problem solved. For those interested, the Tii dizzy does have enough advance and timing was OK. Turned out to be the acc pump jets too small at size 50. Put in 55s and all is well at WOT. Now I dont need the 55f9 idle jets and it idles better with the leaner F8s but still not perfect. Searching for the perfect idle jet- will post when I find it.
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Set the timing the old fashioned way by running a hill ang retarding the ignition in stages until the pinging stops. Will install a wideband O2 sensor tomorrow to see where I"m at. thanks again
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Thanks for the replies. Chokes are 34s.T he head has just been rebuilt less than 20 miles ago when the carbs were installed by a local shop, it has a cable linkage they installed so I will check for WOT. I have a 55 F8 idle jet that seems OK as in I tried a 50 and it ran worse. I also tried a 55 F9 and it runs a little better but my concern is I might be jetting way rich to compensate for another problem ie a vacuum leak. I tried spraying carb cleaner on the joints and disconected the brake vacuum booster thinking it might be letting air in but it made no difference. Searching the forum I found somebody using a 140 main with a 180 air correction jet but that seems like an awfully rich set up
