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rdeeble

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Everything posted by rdeeble

  1. got rear ended. Jon at Fenders & Fins is working on the repairs and Hagerty is ponying up the costs. Fortunately the hit occurred directly in the middle of the frame rails (and below trunk lid) and resulted in no structural damage to the car. Simple bang out rear, paint and replace all lights...
  2. Due to a rear end collision I may need a Drivers side 76 tail assembly as well.
  3. ive got some stock head rests for a 76 if that helps
  4. Ive got a used one in Seattle - pm me if your in the area
  5. Hey there I might have a radiator that you could recore? I wasnt sure from your posting whether you were looking for something already refurbished and ready to go or core to have redone by the radiator shop of your choice. My car is currently in the shop and having its own radiator checked out and as long as I am good there then I would be happy to sell this core for $50 plus ship.
  6. I have a rear seat frame that has been refurbished (sanded and painted with rust converter). This is bottom seat and back frames only no material. PM if needed.
  7. That is anthracite grey and in this case it was the original color of the car. As far as upholstery color I believe there were only four stock colors by 76 but one could still special order some additional colors (Steve would know for sure on this).
  8. Thanks Esty - I am really pleased with color as well! I though they pop really nicely against the grey.
  9. sorry meant to say world upholstery worlduph.com
  10. Finished my upholstery! Thanks to Esty and Steve (Conserv) for all the tips and advice this summer. I refurbished the seat frames over the summer grinding down all the rust, repainting and replacing most of the hardware. For seats and color I wanted to keep it original to a 76 (Steve was a wealth of information on that) but wanted to use an earlier color (60's era saddle brown). I used World Upholstery (worlduph.com) for 76 seat covers and Esty introduced me to vinyl dye (which we used a sample of an early model car to get a dye match). Once dyed I took everything to Darian at Burien Upholstery to install covers and replace some of the foam then I redyed a second time now that the seat covers were stretched out a bit. Finishing touches are tracking down some period correct plastic hardware covers and spraying some 303 over the dyed covers for protection and giving the dye a bit of a satin finish. I am refurbishing a second set of seat frames (shorter sunroof style) to sell. If anyone is interested please let me know.
  11. Thanks Esty I was just getting ready to send you some pics
  12. These are the plastic gromets that go on top of the stock seats where the headposts go. The white plastic washer is a push washer that secures the under side of the vinyl to the gromet. One of mine cracked. Currious if anyone might have a few to spare or know where to purchase. Blunttech couldn't find it on the parts catelogue.
  13. Looks like I may of listed an incorrect part for the vent window... the larger conical shaped disc I believe goes to the window crank mechanism. Additionally in my 76 there is a rubber gromet? that is stamped BMW Girling 64329105. is this correct installation order?
  14. Is this the missing disc you were referring to? Mine is a 76 so wondering if it went to plastic instead of metal
  15. What is the factory correct method in re-installing the Vent Window Knob, Sprint and Disc ? From what I have read the spring goes on the inside of the door, between the vapor barrier and the back of the door card - however this creates the potential of the spring getting lodged in the hole of the door card and puncturing the vinyl. Is the disk also supposed to be against the spring behind the door card ? Or is there a 4th part that I am missing?
  16. Hey everyone thanks for the good advice... heres my not-so-clear findings report ... >Clean your earthing/ground points, you may need to ground you cluster, it’s not uncommon. Got it! Got the male end nice and shiny (anyone have a good tip on cleaning the female connector?) Also noted this heat gauge wire sheath was pretty frayed and I might just want to replace it. This is intriguing because i do get a very slight flicker on the L light on idle which might have something to do with the bushings... curious how this would change heat gauge though? Is it just a matter of load on the electrical system? Coolant level is good and I do get hot air from the heater Sort of... Tank is hot but not too hot - hose is cool to the touch I replaced thermostat - this seems to have lowered the temp gauge to about 2:00 but not back to 3:00 where it was previously... I suspect more than one issue might be at stake indeed with the heater on my gauge (following thermostat replacement) drops from 2:00 to 3:00 Radiator was rebuilt 5 years ago (along with water pump and all hoses) but I'd like to get a temperature on the radiator to see if its not doing what it used to Partially done - male terminal is clean. Going to further assess the female terminal and the sender screws soon Yes I do notice jumpy gas gauge but only temporarily then its solid while temp gauge stays jumpy. MORE IMPORTANTLY I HAVE JUST DISCOVERED THAT THE TEMP GAUGE JUMPS UP A QUARTER WHEN I ACCELERATE this make me think that on top of other issues i have some electrical grounding issues. So the general report is I had Patrick Oneil replace the thermostat and it helped but not where I want it. Im going to get it back into his shop in a few months to have my electrical completely cleaned up (one of patrick's favorite things) and have the cooling system further assessed. For the time being Im getting used to the heater being on and at least the needle isnt hitting red... but I tell you nothing makes you more nervous than not seeing that 3:00 mark. To be continued!
  17. hi JC - I dont have the skills to do it properly for you. Try https://www.max2002store.com/ they have a lot of panels and such
  18. ouch... I have a parts car if you are near seattle and good with a grinder
  19. ping me in a week or so. I might have a set to sell
  20. Hey Faq friends hoping some of you can lean in here... my temp gauge has been riding high the last couple days despite full coolant and oil level. Today it happened within just a few minutes of driving on cooler day in Seattle. The needle actually hit the red so I pulled over to further investigate again. The radiator cap was still cool to the touch and coolant seemed full. No obvious coolant or oil leaks that I could see. The gauge is also really jumpy. I had my car in for service last month and my local mechanic felt that based on some oil leakage that I might be due for head job but I wanted Patrick and Midnight Motor Sports to handled that later in the year. thoughts anyone?
  21. not that it matters but I think you might a few items here that are earlier than square models... i could be wrong - as there might be a transition phase leading up to 74 but I commonly think of the chromed interior parts (ash trays and handles) as earlier than square models. Maybe someone will lean to provide a little more authority on that.
  22. Good condition. Chrome has some minor pits. $25 per tray (shipped) or $45 for pair (shipped).
  23. Looking for late model drivers side door card - any color is ok - vinyl must be in good condt.
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