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josh72ooh2

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Everything posted by josh72ooh2

  1. I actually had both checked out while I was trying to find the culprit of the parasitic draw. O'Reiliy checked the 1.5yr old battery and it is fine. I took the alternator to the shop I got it from and they bench tested it and it was ok. I think they put new brushes in at that time too. I have a feeling the alternator is not working consistently all the time though. Something, in addition to a nice low idle(due to fuel injection), is causing it to fail at low RPM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. It is just under 12v when the car is warm, and the voltage light comes on. But it isn't always on at warm idle. It will go on at a traffic light, and then maybe come on again a few lights later. So it is inconsistent. I got home and the light was on (car still running), i tested the voltage at the battery at just under 12V, then I pulled the car into the driveway, the light was off (car still running), the battery tested around 13+Volts. The voltage regulator is a new solid state one. However, I am running one of those 85Amp alternators off ebay. It is 5 years old. Supposedly has an internal regulator. yet I have always had to connect my old voltage regulator to it via that one DF wire. I can't remember why but I think but if it wasn't connected, either the 'L' light would come on or the voltage would drop a lot.
  3. I just took my car for a 45 minute drive with a few stops and had no issues. I removed everything from that terminal that isn't necessary. I cleaned up a few wires around the car with shrink tubing which had cracked and exposed wiring. But those were for license plate lights and such. Yes, the wiring going to that + terminal are fused. Two are inline fused wires that are for the headlight relay conversion. One is for an alarm (which might be the main culprit in all this), and one is for the stereo/powered subwoofer.
  4. Yes, you can test for a parasitic draw with an Amp meter too... which my tests have been inconclusive. Yet, if I let my car sit for a week or two, the battery goes dead. And the battery is only a 1.5yrs old. My car idles super low due to the EFI set up. Occasionally, it will idle so low that the voltage light will go on. But a simple rev of the engine and it goes off. I did re-connect a windshield washer pump for the first time in years. That is the only new electrical 'change' that has occurred. Lately however, the complete electrical system will cut out. My car sat for a few weeks. I jumped it. And then it died while in my driveway idling. twice. I jumped it again, drove it and it died a block from my house. I jumped it, drove it home, charged the battery, and tried to start it and the whole electrical system cut out completely. Then turned key off, tried again, and it fired right up. I started the car, disconnected the ground, and the car still ran OK (indicating the alternator is OK). The battery currently has a full charge. So i have to sort through all my wiring and try to get to the bottom of this. And while I am at it, it is time to clean up that wiring for piece of mind. All that wiring goes to various things like the stereo, car alarm (mainly used for door lock actuators), and a few other odds and ends. I am going to disconnect everything that isn't necessary for the car to run and go from there.
  5. I am trying to chase down an electrical short and one of the places to start is this positive terminal under my hood. The battery is converted to the trunk and I have this rats nest accumulating on this terminal. Any ideas of a junction box or some way to tidy it up?
  6. Sure. Not sure when that will be but i'll transplant them into a box and next time I head down there, i'll drop them off.
  7. Bump - Free!!!! Just pay shipping or take it away in a box of your own.
  8. Typical story.. I pull parts out for people who want them, and then they vanish and never pay or follow through. These will probably fit in a tube so shipping wouldn't be that bad. $20+ shipping. OK for a daily driver. Some scuffs. Straight. Some writing on them that rubs off.
  9. Curious as to the amperage as well. I'm in culver city and having some odd electrical issues and it might be my 85amp.
  10. I have it hooked up as per the instructions on the link, and here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/electrical-and-ignition/how-to-swap-a-320i-e21-alternator-onto-a-non-r60 But again, when the car is warm/hot, is when I have issues. Is there a way to test the alternator's performance while on the car, running, and when that light pops on? Like perhaps measuring amps or volts across the B or D terminals?
  11. I did the mod that bypasses the regulator... i think. I'll double check later but I remember only using the one wire from the triple connector to the stock alternator. But it still required the use of my stock regulator. None of this wasn't an issue until recently. I did the mod that bypasses the regulator... i think. I'll double check later but I remember only using the one wire from the triple connector to the stock alternator. But it still required the use of my stock regulator. None of this wasn't an issue until recently.
  12. I've got a head scratcher... I have one of the alternators sold on Ebay that is a 85AMP upgrade with an internal regulator. I am still running the stock voltage regulator because if I disconnect it, the dash light goes on. I have an EFI set up on my car that is controlled by a custom chipped 1996 318 ECU. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/170941-fuel-injection-photos-with-94-bmw-318-chipped-ecu/ Lately, when the engine is hot and I've been driving it for 30 minutes or more, the dashboard voltage light goes on at idle. I step on the gas, it usually goes away. It isn't consistently going on at every traffic light, but it will pop on and go away within a few yards, or a few blocks of driving the car. I have a voltmeter gauge in the car and the voltage dips to 12v or under at that time too. I swapped out the stock regulator and put in an adjustable modern voltage regulator similar to this (but a different brand): http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/vr-extadj.htm The dash light still goes on but the old regulator had an occasional glow/flicker to it. Now the light is either on or off with the new regulator My 2 year old son is obsessed with playing in my car so occasionally a light got turned on and the battery went low. I had the battery tested, and it is fine. It is charged and been no issues for 2 weeks. I took the alternator out and brought it to the shop in Van Nuys that sells them on ebay. They tested it and it is fine. The ground wire is thick and connected well. My thought is that when the alternator gets warm, it stops performing properly. i don't want to buy a new one unless I know that is the issue. Any other ideas? Thanks in advance. -josh
  13. Reply to Ken. He'll take care of you. I also had some work down at Summit Auto in Venice but Ken helped me solve some perplexing issues with my car that now give me piece of mind.
  14. Has anybody found a solution to replacing the stock, and often damaged, cardboard like tubes that run from the heater to the defroster under the dashboard? Both of mine need replacing and I'd imagine that there is a tube out there that would work fine. Thanks in advance
  15. How can I tell if it is any good? I am happy to dig through and look and send more photos. But I want the whole box gone. Shipping to the bay area won't be that bad...
  16. Price:: 5.00 Location: : Culver City, CA Check out the photos. Gotta clear more junk out to make room for even more junk. There are 2 pullies in here. And engine mount, Some sensors, suspension bits and more... Free! I can box this up and ship it (you pay shipping). I would like to see it go to a good home and get the good 2002 karma! I keep the tupperware bin!
  17. Motronic works. My car runs great. But read above... he wrote a custom chip for it.
  18. Here are a few specs... It has a Motronic system from 1990 m40 318 engine with direct ignition with the 4 individual coils. No distributor. The 84 manifold has a custom cnc'd bracket attached to a 90's 318i throttle body. He made a custom 60-2 custom trigger wheel so it worked with Bosch vs the edis sensor. He can remake that trigger wheel if anybody is interested. Someday I hope to install an O2 sensor... But I'm happy with it at the moment.
  19. Thanks mike. This all started when I visited you in San Jose many years ago. Now I can say it is finally complete. He doesn't want to mess with Megasquirt. You would be on your own for that. I got the friend deal...But if you got the time to be without your car for up to a year and the money to spend, he'd probably take on the project.
  20. I've been a bit absent on the FAQ for the last year or two. Part of it was because my car was undergoing what turned into a 9 month fuel injection conversion. The other was due to a move, a new baby boy, new job, building motorcycles, etc... A friend who has a supercharge BMW car shop in Van Nuys, CA offered to help with my dreams of Fuel Injecting my 02. Attached are the photos. It mostly has an '84 manifold and fuel rail, etc... And in the end, he wrote a custom chip for a '94 318i ECU to run the car. I originally was going with Megasquirt but the custom chip was easier for him to do. I wasn't going to argue... he was doing me a massive favor by doing this job on his spare time. I'm not completely tech saavy on all the work that was done. But I can say the upgrade, along with a 3.9 LSDiff is super fun to drive now. Cheers!
  21. Price:: 20 Location: : Culver City, CA I have these throttle rods left over from my 2002 Fuel injection conversion - $20 and you can have all of them. And the Fuel Senders. $10 each Trying to clear out the garage today. if this ad is more then a few days old... make me an offer!
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